Help with dealing with tear out

[Runhard]

I have some nicely figured soft maple that I will be using to build a split top Roubo work bench with Benchcrafted hardware. The problem is that there is tear out from the from when I had the woodworking store mill my material down to 1-3/4. I do not have a planer to try and correct this, I have the tools in my signature and some good hand tools. I was able to get a Delta DJ20 8" jointer this week, but it has not been turned on for over 10 years and I do not have anywhere to hook it up. It appears to be in great shape with almost no rust and sharp blades.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

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[tiralie]

Does anyone have any suggestions?

I would take it back to the woodworking store. That tear out is unacceptable.

Are you using this for the top or the legs? If the top I would leave it and then once the table is assembled you can remove it with a hand plane.
If you are going to use it for the legs, I would rip to the right width, tune up the new joiner (you have to do it sooner or later) and put the ripped boards through to remove the tear out.
Tim

 

[tjbnwi]

Dan, if you're not needing this right away I can bring my planer out with me next time I'm at my daughters.

12-1/2" DeWalt, with new blades.

Tom

 

[wow]

If you were near me I'd tell you to bring it over and we'd run it through the SuperMax sander. ZERO tearout, and you can take it to whatever grit surface you want before you hit it with a Random Orbit sander prior to finishing.

 

[Northern Early]

I recently surfaced some walnut that I cut down and then slabed with my chainsaw. next step was to surface with my router. I mad two guides clamped to my work surface. they were ply that had a straight edge from my TS. clamped equal height from my known flat worksurface. I made a guide in a U shape that my router fit in to slide back and forth. The guide rode on the two straight edges. a 1 1/4" bit and my slabs were surfaced enough that my rotex will finish the job.

I re-read what i wrote and it didn't make sense to me but I'm going to leave it because i don't think i can improve on it. But i did find the video that helped me create my jig.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/flattening-workbenches-and-wide-boards-with-a-router/

Its slow but it does work. Unless you have access to a thickness sander those curls may not come out with a planner.

 

[Rob-GB]

Some woods will tear out which ever direction you put it through the thicknesser, even when you plane off just enough to remove feed roller marks, it's a burden we often have to bear.
Wow hit the solution on the head though, ask someone to put it through a drum sander to say 120 grit, a local cabinet shop might help or even the yard you bought it from if the have one on hand.

Rob.

 

[Runhard]

I will try to find someone with a drum sander, this seems to be the best option.

Thanks for the offer Tom. I thought about buying the DeWalt planner, but I want to wait and buy a nice big planer when I have a bigger shop. These long boards would be a bit tricky with a lunchbox planer.

 

[Runhard]

Does anyone have any suggestions?

I would take it back to the woodworking store. That tear out is unacceptable.

Are you using this for the top or the legs? If the top I would leave it and then once the table is assembled you can remove it with a hand plane.
If you are going to use it for the legs, I would rip to the right width, tune up the new joiner (you have to do it sooner or later) and put the ripped boards through to remove the tear out.
Tim

I bought this wood about 5 months ago, I doubt that the store would be willing to help.

 

[waho6o9]

1) drum sander

2) card and or plane scraper

good luck now[attachimg=1]

 

[mouppe]

I would get a good sharp hand plane preferably with a high angle and go at it. A wide drum sander would be good too, but you will probably need to reflatten your top every year or so, and a hand plane would be your only practical option to do this going forward. Even if you take minute passes with a planer, you're almost certain to get some tearout.

 

[Runhard]

I have Lie Nielsen: No.7 Jointer Plane, Low Angle Jack Plane, No.4 Smooth Plane all with the standard blades and frogs (except the low angle jack of course). I really have not used them, but this would be good practice. Would I need to get some different blades and/or higher angle frogs? Would you recommend another hand plane?

 

[mouppe]

You've got more than enough already to do a good job. I'd use the low angle jack on a piece that size as the jointer plane will wear you out very quickly.

But I'd question the purpose of trying to remove the tearout? Certainly it won't affect the flatness of the top, which is really the only thing of importance, and if you're going for something that looks good, then it doesn't make sense to use this wood as a workbench top.

 

[Runhard]

I was wanting to use the figured wood for the front rail and the font of the legs, otherwise it wouldn't matter. The tear out is only on the figured pieces that I ended up with. Not sure why I still couldn't use this wood if I want my bench to look nice?

 

[carlb40]

I have Lie Nielsen: No.7 Jointer Plane, Low Angle Jack Plane, No.4 Smooth Plane all with the standard blades and frogs (except the low angle jack of course). I really have not used them, but this would be good practice. Would I need to get some different blades and/or higher angle frogs? Would you recommend another hand plane?

As you have the low angle plane, i assume you mean the 62? If so i would suggest the toothing blade
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/lie-nielsen-replacement-blades-low-angle-jack-plane-blade-toothed-

and / or the 90 degree blade.
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/lie-nielsen-replacement-blades-low-angle-jack-plane-blade-90%C2%BA-bevel-

I have the equivalent  of the woodriver 62 plane with the 50 degree blade. I have planed purple heart with them that had more tear out than on your maple, and the results was timber as smooth as a babies bum lol.

 

[mouppe]

Oh well- totally different scenario!- in that case I'd use the smoothing plane and concentrate on the areas with tearout. It should be quite easy to tame and will look good when finished I am sure.

What wood are you using for the main top? I'm looking forward to seeing the end result.

 

[Runhard]

Oh well- totally different scenario!- in that case I'd use the smoothing plane and concentrate on the areas with tearout. It should be quite easy to tame and will look good when finished I am sure.

What wood are you using for the main top? I'm looking forward to seeing the end result.

It will all be made out of soft maple. I need to get started on it, I have had the Benchcrafted hardware kit since last Christmas and this wood for 5 months.

 

[Runhard]

I have Lie Nielsen: No.7 Jointer Plane, Low Angle Jack Plane, No.4 Smooth Plane all with the standard blades and frogs (except the low angle jack of course). I really have not used them, but this would be good practice. Would I need to get some different blades and/or higher angle frogs? Would you recommend another hand plane?

As you have the low angle plane, i assume you mean the 62? If so i would suggest the toothing blade
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/lie-nielsen-replacement-blades-low-angle-jack-plane-blade-toothed-

and / or the 90 degree blade.
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/lie-nielsen-replacement-blades-low-angle-jack-plane-blade-90%C2%BA-bevel-

I have the equivalent  of the woodriver 62 plane with the 50 degree blade. I have planed purple heart with them that had more tear out than on your maple, and the results was timber as smooth as a babies bum lol.

Yes, it is the 62. I will order those blades. Would you suggest a higher angle frog for the smoother?

 

[carlb40]

I have Lie Nielsen: No.7 Jointer Plane, Low Angle Jack Plane, No.4 Smooth Plane all with the standard blades and frogs (except the low angle jack of course). I really have not used them, but this would be good practice. Would I need to get some different blades and/or higher angle frogs? Would you recommend another hand plane?

As you have the low angle plane, i assume you mean the 62? If so i would suggest the toothing blade
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/lie-nielsen-replacement-blades-low-angle-jack-plane-blade-toothed-

and / or the 90 degree blade.
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/lie-nielsen-replacement-blades-low-angle-jack-plane-blade-90%C2%BA-bevel-

I have the equivalent  of the woodriver 62 plane with the 50 degree blade. I have planed purple heart with them that had more tear out than on your maple, and the results was timber as smooth as a babies bum lol.

Yes, it is the 62. I will order those blades. Would you suggest a higher angle frog for the smoother?

I have no experience of the high angle frogs for the bench planes.

This could be worth a watch if you haven't already seen it?

 

[alkaline]

As mentioned, also in this way is possible. The plane is under perfect control. Good luck.

[wink]

 

[mouppe]

I tend to use the 45• in my jointer and the 50• in my smoother. At times I have used the 55• in my smoother when planing some difficult woods such as Birdseye maple or curly birch. It is not too comfortable to use the 55• frog for large areas though so I would reach for a scraper or sandpaper for large areas. I think you could get the result you are looking for with what you have.

If you get the toothed blade get the one for taming tearout not for prepping veneers. LN sells both.