Help...

[Prater]

Since winning the January contest I am trying to decide what I would use the most.  I am just a hobby user and am leaning towards a sander since I dont have a good one at the moment.  I also have a MFT 1080 but dont have any clamps.  From those that use the MFT what clamps are esential to your projects?  If I worked in the field a plunge saw would be at the top of my list, but I dont think I would really ever use it that much.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Steven

P.S.  Thanks Festool Owners Group and Bill at Festool Supply for the contest prize.

 

[honeydoman]

you can get the clamp pkg deal.  clamps I use are  just about all of them.  also the clamp stops for the top are good also.  but I would think several of the either screw to tight or the ratchet would be a good start.

here is a pic of me using the screw down type and they work great

 

[tbellemare]

What he said...

The MFT Clamp Set has two of each of the:

• Clamping Elements,
• Traditional Screw Clamps, and
• Quick Clamps

all at a discount. They are all quite useful.

Tom

 

[Frank Pellow]

I agree with what both honey... and Tonm have said.  All of those clamps in the set are very useful.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Prater,

I also concur that getting a set is a great way to start your Festool clamp collection.  I have three MFTs (old style) and besides the clamping elements, have 4 Quick Clamps and 4 of the F-style screw handle clamps, two of which are the 300mm long units.  In my experience, a woodworker cannot have too many clamps or too many styles of clamps; there are myriad possible arrangements of workpieces that require different styles and sizes of clamps.  After >30 years as a hobbyist, I still occasionally add to my clamps collection.

If you are thinking of sanders, and if you have read many of the FOG threads discussing them, you may already know that the ETS 150/3 is top rated by FWW and is an all around favorite.  It is very smooth, stable and controllable, even on workpieces much narrower than its ~6 inch diameter.  Although I have an RO 125, ETS 125, Deltex 93 and LS 130, the ETS 150/3 I won in December's contest is fast becoming a favorite.  I very much like my LS 130, too, again due to its versatility and controllability -- it is not for shaping and rapid stock removal.

Dave R.

Dave R.

 

[Prater]

Thanks for the info.  Do you find yourself using the traditional clamps more than the others?  I have used quick clamps before and they seem to move the part if you are not carefull.  I may just skip the sander and go with some clamps instead.

 

[Frank Pellow]

I find that I use both traditional clamps and quicj clamps about the same amount on my MFT.  I find that both types of clamps will move the part unless you are careful.  The best types of clamp for not moving that part are the K-body clamps, but I seldom use those in conjuction with my MFT.

 

[Bill in seattle]

Prater,
Like everyone else said, you can't have enough clamps.
I think I have over a thousand clamps of all sizes and kinds. They are a magnetic attraction in the woodwooking arena.
I would also suggest fsz 300 489571 as well for thicker items and the fs rapid/1 489790. This clamps from the sides instead of the bottom. Great for doors or boxes when you can't clamp from the bottom on rails. It can be used with the discontinued clamping profiles spr800 which I still have a few in stock.
For the old mft you could add a longitudinal stop mft-la 488564 as well as a pair of table extensions vl 700 mft 489575. They give support for long pieces on each end of the mft. They are a robust extrusion and lock to the table.

They are for the mft 1080 but will also fit the mft3 if you put a spacer under the rail to raise it about 1/2'' to the table for everyone else with the mft 3

Decisions, decisions, decisions, more to think about!!!!!

Bill

 

[nickao]

Every project I have ever done requires a sander. Festool makes some of the best sanders. To me clamps are needed and I have more than I can count, but they are an accessory and clamping can be achieved in many ways. You can not achieve the sanding a Festool sander gives you another way. Well I guess you can do what I used to do and sit there all day with another no name or cheap version of a sander.

I think a sander should be first on your list if you do not have a good one. Get your clamps as you have projects that dictate the type clamp you need.

If you can only get one Festool sander get the Rotex 150. If it is to much money get the 150/3 or 150/5. The 150/3 gives the best finish, but if you only can have one sander the 150/5 may be better because it does sand rough wood a bit faster and the final results are close to the 150/3.

The best combo if you can swing two sanders is a Rotex 150 and a 150/3 in my opinion. Skip the ETS 125 sander,  the Porter cable PC 390 is a much better sander and a better  deal. Plus, once you go 6" you probably will never use a 5" sander much again, unless a small project dictates its use.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

What a great dilemma to have! ;D

Basically, you can't go wrong with either clamps or a sander.  Nickao hit it on the head - Rotex, then 150/3.  You really aren't getting full benefit from the MFT without the clamps - screw clamps are cheapest and work fine.  Quick clamps are a little quicker, and clamping elements are sorta special purpose, great for holding things you are sanding.

About that plunge saw - you might be surprised.  I have a tricked out Unisaw but the MFT55 is still my go-to saw.

 

[bill-e]

I agree with Nick though I might opt for the 150/5. 

 

[Prater]

Guys, this really isnt easy...Maybe a weekend trip to Woodcraft to actually hold a few tools and make my decision afterwards...

 

[nickao]

It's easier than you think.

Once you get that Festool stuff home you will be addicted and the next purchase will be the only thing on your mind for a long while. 

 

[wnagle]

Prater...

If you get clamps, they will come in handy as they always do...I you get the Sander ETS 150/3  you will go WOW!!! and never look back.  I'm amazed every time I use it...Don't know how I got along without it!

 

[Prater]

I have a large boat project this year.  I will be doing some fiberglass work using vinylester with microfibers.  How are the sanders for this kind of use?  I will be using a grinder to remove the old fiberglass blisters and mixing my own fillers. How is the RO 150 for finishing fiberglass?  I talked to a few other boaters that have them and love the 150.  Do I have to buy festool abrasives or can I use locall bulk paper?

 

[wnagle]

The RO 150 sounds perfect for that... It is heavier and more of a work horse.  Also its random orbit is 5mm... another reason to get the 3mm orbit when you get the ets 150.  If I only had one sander it would probably be the RO 150... That being said, I have both ansders and use the ETS150/3 95 percent of the time.

 

[CharlesWilson]

If you go for the sander, you will definitely want to use a vacuum to take full advantage of it. And, of course, there will be several grits. (You won't want to skip any grits.) If you get one of the RO sanders, you may want to get some buffing and polishing pads.

Welcome to the slippery slope.

 

[nickao]

I have a large boat project this year.  I will be doing some fiberglass work using vinylester with microfibers.  How are the sanders for this kind of use?  I will be using a grinder to remove the old fiberglass blisters and mixing my own fillers. How is the RO 150 for finishing fiberglass?  I talked to a few other boaters that have them and love the 150.  Do I have to buy festool abrasives or can I use locall bulk paper?

Use the Festool abrasives. Even though they seem expensive I seem to get 3 or 4 times longer use out of them than standard abrasives, plus they do have a unique hole pattern. The bulk paper is not going to give you the same results. I bet in the end you spend as much as you would on the Festool paper because you will go through the bulk paper so much faster.

To me the abrasives are an important part of the system.

 

[Frank Pellow]

I agree with Nick about using Festool abrasives.  I am certain that I save both time and money by doing so.  If you get a Rotex 150 you must hook it up to a vacuum (preferably a Festool vacuum), otherwise it is a waste of a good sander.

 

[Prater]

I agree with Nick about using Festool abrasives.  I am certain that I save both time and money by doing so.  If you get a Rotex 150 you must hook it up to a vacuum (preferably a Festool vacuum), otherwise it is a waste of a good sander.

Is there an adapter to hook it to my central vac system?