Hi Guys, I need the settings for crown cutting on the Kapex

[Spike]

I have about 125' of 3 7/8" cherry crown to install. Not my first rodeo cutting crown but is the first on Kapex, I didn't notice any presets like my Hitachi and DW712 have. The crown is more than likely 45 spring angle...maybe. Won't know until Thursday but would like to get prepped.

Thanks

 

[tbellemare]

Do you have the Crown Stops?

Tom

 

[Spike]

Yes, made my own. The crown stops are one of just a few items Festool offers that I cannot bring myself to pay for, $85/ea. is simply too much.

 

[Rob Z]

Hi Taos,

I found this manual for the Kapex:  http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/kapex-ks120-supplemental-manual.pdf

I gave it a quick read and didn't see detents for cutting crown. The scale looks accurate enough that I think the angles could be set manually. It sure looks like a sweet saw.  If I wasn't so happy wth my old Hitachi 8 1/2" SCMS.... ;D

 

[Rob Z]

Brice's review indicates that setting angles to within 1/4 degree is quite doable.

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/festool%20kapex%20by%20brice%20burrell.pdf

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

If you have crown stops, what do you need help with angle's for?

I am serious, no need to think about that.  Just have to know if its outside or inside.

 

[tbellemare]

That's what the Angle-Finder and the lasers are for.

Tom

 

[Rick Christopherson]

If you are looking for the compound miter settings, they are in the manual, and it even includes a built-in calculator for them. http://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/

 

[Rob Z]

I think Taos is asking about the detents so he can cut the crown, possibly on the flat?

That's what I use on my saw.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

If you have crown stops, all you need is to set the saw to 45.

Cutting crown on the flat is a waste of time.

I know, sometimes it has to be done but, not very often.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

I think Taos is asking about the detents so he can cut the crown, possibly on the flat?

That's what I use on my saw.

Yes, that is what the compound miter calculation is for, except it is not limited to the single 38/52 moulding.  I believe Taos said this was 45 degree moulding, so detents will not be correct.

 

[Rob Z]

If you have crown stops, all you need is to set the saw to 45.

Cutting crown on the flat is a waste of time.

I know, sometimes it has to be done but, not very often.

Why is cutting crown on the flat a waste of time?

 

[danrush]

Rob Z

When cutting crown in the nested position, only the miter angle needs to be set. 

When cutting on the flat, both the miter and the bevel need to be set.  It's another step.  (and another chance for error) 

I find it much quicker to cut in the nested position, particularily on inside coped cuts.  I cut the inside 45, then slide the crown down to the end of the wing and use my coping saw or Collins foot to finish the cope. 

The only learning curve is thinking upside down and backwards when marking cuts.  I've blown plenty of cuts that would have fit perfectly if the kitchen were just a mirror image of itself.

The only time I cut on the flat is when I have some Monster crown that won't fit in my kapex or Makita 1214.

Dan

 

[honeydoman]

I feel the same as warner... cutting on the flat is a pain....  cut it nested is the quickest and easiest way.  you only have to flip the saw back and forth from 45  to the other 45 or 1 degree here or their.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

If you have crown stops, all you need is to set the saw to 45.

Cutting crown on the flat is a waste of time.

I know, sometimes it has to be done but, not very often.

Why is cutting crown on the flat a waste of time?

Because of two extra steps.  

Easy thing to do is, have a couple corner mock-ups for inside and out side.
That way if you get confused, you can reference the cut you need.

You get made fun of where I'm from cutting your crown flat.

When you are trying to dial in two different degrees, one bevel, one miter, you end up doubling any error that occurs.

Nest, cut, nail.
Simple.

 

[Rob Z]

Hi Dan,  

I haven't found the need to set the second setting to a big drag on time or production, and with the detents it seems to go quickly. What my guys and I have always felt is that the crown has some variation on the two faces on the back and it can vary a bit when set in the crown stops. When I got my Hitachi slider 10 years ago, I started cutting everything on the flat and just got used to it.  I have to admit that I am intrigued with the Kapex and after reading Brice's review and noting the fine-tuning abiltiy of the angle settings, I would like to get my hands on one and use it on the job sometime.

Speaking of the Collins...which saw do you have yours set up on? My jigsaw is a ~20 year old PC and there isn't a Collins made to fit it.  

 

[Rob Z]

20+ years ago, I was sometimes confused by the corners and a mock-up was handy.  Now, that isn't my concern. :

I think I must be looking at this another way than you guys. The crown stops need to be adjusted because of variations in the molding, and if that isn't done then there are errors from cutting with the crown stops. 

Around here it is the opposite of Warner's area...most of  the guys I know that are really top-notch trim carpenters lay all the moldings down and cut it that way. 

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

With a good set of stops, it should not be an issue.  Most guys I know always made their own.  Although the ones for the Kapex are pretty nice.

Ever tried to cut it flat with a hand box?

What kind of crown has a bunch of variations in it?

Maybe you should have a talk to the mill shop if it is that bad.

 

[Rob Z]

I do have my Grandfather's old Millers Falls miter saw with a backsaw, but no I haven't tried to cut much in it.  Might be fun to try.

The "flats" on the back of the crown aren't always at right right angles to each other and I was thinking this leads to errors trying to stand it up on the saw.  I guess you're not having a problem with it.  As always, to each his own.

Where is Taos now to tell us about his crown installation? ;D

 

[danrush]

Rob,

1st, you asked about my Collins.  In general, I'm a Bosch guy when it comes to jiggy's.  But I use the barrel Trion as my dedicated coping saw.  I find that it's blade guides seem to help keep the blade straight when cutting curves and back-cuts in crown.  If you, or anyone else, go this route, be prepared to re-work the Collins foot a bit to fit the Trion. 

I needed to cut the foot, where the back of the blade hits, back about an 1/8 - 3/16" or so.  When I first installed the foot, I was breaking blades like a newbie.  I then installed a metal blade backwards, ran the saw, and applied pressure to cut into the foot.  Worked for me.  It may have been just this particular foot, saw, or operator.  In any case all is fine now, and I do like the Trion with the Collins.  ( I have also used a Bosch barrel with a Collins foot, works well)

As to crown "flats".  When nesting crown, I've found that the flats don't matter as much as keeping the stops consistantly in the same position.  "Forcing" if you will, consistant cuts through-out the job. If the flats are out so much as to cause problems with cuts, it would seem to me that the other milled surfaces on the trim would also be out, causing at least as much, if not more, of a problem.

Just some thoughts, Dan