Hi Folks - I'm about to make the plunge and purchase the hole drill set in order to make shelf holes. I've gone through and searched the forum, but I have been unsuccessful in finding the right answer. Is it worth purchasing the Hole Drill set in a Systainer for $406 or should I just get the set that sells for $178? Which one should I buy? From reading around, it seems the Systainer set comes with a few more items: clamps, the router bits (which I most likely will never use the 35mm router bit), and the Systainer. Please let me know if this is correct and which of the two sets I should purchase. Thanks in advance for all your wonderful suggestions. ???
Hole drilling set or set in Systainer
- Thread starter NVA_WW
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Lou Miller
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I went with the lesser kit and then just added a systainer. Everyone likes to use different methods, so what works for one of us might not work well for you. I personally had no use for the 5mm bits or the 35mm bit. I use 1/4" pins and do my cup hinges on the drill press.
Brice Burrell
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NVA, like Lou, I used 1/4" bit to drill the holes, plus I already had the clamps so went with the Hole Drilling Set. The set comes with the mounting plate that mount to the router and the plate in turn rides on the LR 32 guide rails (with holes). The set also includes two end stops to index the rail on the ends stock and two side side stops to set the distance from the edge of the stock. Plus a centering mandreal to center the guide plate on the OF1010 router, hardware is included to mount the OF1400 and I believe the OF2000. You don't need the mandreal for the other two router, threaded holes in the base center the plate.
I picked up a SYS 1 with the diced foam insert to keep the set in, works well. I have since swiched to 5 mm shelf pin holes, I like the look of the smaller holes a little better. I use the Festool 5 mm brad point bit, it drills perfectly clean holes and the 35 mm bit for the hinge cups, very nice bits.
The items not included in the set that you will need are, a router, clamps, bits and the guide rail(s) Festool offers two sizes for the rails 42" rail and the 95" rail.
Good luck, let us know how you like the set.
I picked up a SYS 1 with the diced foam insert to keep the set in, works well. I have since swiched to 5 mm shelf pin holes, I like the look of the smaller holes a little better. I use the Festool 5 mm brad point bit, it drills perfectly clean holes and the 35 mm bit for the hinge cups, very nice bits.
The items not included in the set that you will need are, a router, clamps, bits and the guide rail(s) Festool offers two sizes for the rails 42" rail and the 95" rail.
Good luck, let us know how you like the set.
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i bought the whole set and it works great. the hole boring jig from sommerfeld is great and works well, just make sure you adjust the little spaces underneath for spacing from door edge to hole edge.
I use the festool jig for holes all the time and it is fast and easy to use ,. takes a few times to get used to it. if you have any problems let me or us know.
also if you have the 1400 router you need to get 2 screws to attach to base from festool. if you use the 1100 then you do not.
I use the festool jig for holes all the time and it is fast and easy to use ,. takes a few times to get used to it. if you have any problems let me or us know.
also if you have the 1400 router you need to get 2 screws to attach to base from festool. if you use the 1100 then you do not.
Brice Burrell
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honeydokreg said:
The screws should be included in both sets, if not call Festool as Kreg said.
brandon.nickel
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I suspect that after you use the LR32 for a while you will quit doing hinge cups on the drill press and start using that 35mm router bit. The micro-adjust feature on the sled lets you dial in the precise distance from the edge of hte work to the center of the bit. You can do the same thing with a drill press, but it's not nearly so easy to set the distance perfectly and square the fence to the work. If you go full-out with the 32mm system, you can also use the LR32 to construct cabinets and use the whole range of euro hinges and connectors. That includes drop-in hinges that I think would be very difficult to center the bore between the screw-holes using a drill-press setup. Just a thought. I bought the systainer and like it. The only part I haven't used is the pointed 5mm drill. That's only because I haven't had occasion to work with melamine since.
Brice Burrell
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Brandon I've used the pointed bit for melamine too, what is really excels at is drilling holes all the way the stock with clean cuts on both sides. I agree with you about using the LR32 and router to drill hinge for cups instead of a drill press. I do almost all of my work on-site, that means no drill press.
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the hole boring jig from sommerfeld or blum works quick and simple clamp, insert driver tip that is attached to handle, into your drill, drill hole move to end drill done deal. i used to use the rockler set up, and had bought the blum jig 2-3 years ago and thought I lost the tips, recently discovered they are in the little orange hadle and this jig works quick and simple.
So it's still up in the air for which set to buy. I might go with the one without the systainer for now, so I can have some extra cash to get the Sommerfield jig. I'm buying more green stuff before the prices go up (the 1400, Domino, and CT33 with boom arm in my wish list). I'm going to be working on some built-ins so I going to add the hole system.
I'm also going to get both LR32 rails to go with the set as some of the built-ins I will be building will require the longer rail.
Since I'm on the topic of hole system, should I get the 1010 for system? I'm getting the 1400 so I can do dado, etc, but if the price of the 1010 will also be going up I want to know if I should bite the bullet and get it now. BTW, I have a hole shelf full of routers and now regret not buying the Festools from the start.
Thanks all for the replies and I'll keep you posted on what I end up buying before April 1st.
I'm also going to get both LR32 rails to go with the set as some of the built-ins I will be building will require the longer rail.
Since I'm on the topic of hole system, should I get the 1010 for system? I'm getting the 1400 so I can do dado, etc, but if the price of the 1010 will also be going up I want to know if I should bite the bullet and get it now. BTW, I have a hole shelf full of routers and now regret not buying the Festools from the start.
Thanks all for the replies and I'll keep you posted on what I end up buying before April 1st.
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Hello
I don't like stuff "laying around".
I also can't justify spending $400 on the LR-32 Kit but would have no problem purchasing the basic kit for $178 and a Sortainer or Systainer for storage.
Leaves allot of extra cash for other Festool's
As far as routers go... I only own the OF 1400 and really like it. You can use the OF 1400 with the LR32 system so if it were me I would bypass the OF 1010 and get the OF 1400
Dan Clermont
I don't like stuff "laying around".
I also can't justify spending $400 on the LR-32 Kit but would have no problem purchasing the basic kit for $178 and a Sortainer or Systainer for storage.
Leaves allot of extra cash for other Festool's
As far as routers go... I only own the OF 1400 and really like it. You can use the OF 1400 with the LR32 system so if it were me I would bypass the OF 1010 and get the OF 1400
Dan Clermont
Altho i have other routers, after stepping on the SS, i decided the OF 1000 would make sense to use with "the system". that, naturally, led to other purchases, the first of which was the hole drilling set. I did not go for the systainer, but fit everything in the sme systainer my OF 1000 came in. I would not swear that the router will fit in with the hole drilling set, as i have never put the 1000 back into its systainer. It is the first router i grab for and so it resides in a small rolling cart/shelf right next to my MFT 1080.
A little later, i decided the OF 1400 would work in with "the system" much better than my PC's and Milwaukee routers. i bought it almost as soon as it became available. Altho it does not get used as often as my OF 1000, it does not stay in its systainer for very long between uses. i have just finished a small project where I had to make multiple cuts with two different sized bits. Working with a shop made jig, the MFS 400 template and setting up both routers with pattern rings in each, the job went so much faster.
i don't think i went wrong in purchasing both the 1000 and the 1400. All of my other routers are doing a very efficient job of collecting any dust not collected by my CT 33, CT 22, Milwaukee shop vac and Delta air cleaner. with all of that equipment, the is still plenty of airborne fine dust to settle very nicely on those unused routers
Tinker
A little later, i decided the OF 1400 would work in with "the system" much better than my PC's and Milwaukee routers. i bought it almost as soon as it became available. Altho it does not get used as often as my OF 1000, it does not stay in its systainer for very long between uses. i have just finished a small project where I had to make multiple cuts with two different sized bits. Working with a shop made jig, the MFS 400 template and setting up both routers with pattern rings in each, the job went so much faster.
i don't think i went wrong in purchasing both the 1000 and the 1400. All of my other routers are doing a very efficient job of collecting any dust not collected by my CT 33, CT 22, Milwaukee shop vac and Delta air cleaner. with all of that equipment, the is still plenty of airborne fine dust to settle very nicely on those unused routers
Tinker
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if you want a dedicated router for the holes then get the 1100. however it only has a 1/4 chuck. where the 1400 has the 1/4 5mm and the 1/2 chuck. I would get the the 1400 great router because I also use it for fluting. when I build bookcase I run flutes up the sides of the 1x3 and it looks great and adds a nich touch.
you wouldn't know it but that 3 piece crown profile was added in to tie into the the sides, as the crown originally went into the opening where I built in the book case. and I used my fein to cut straight up the crown on the left and right and then coped new pieces to fit in perfectly. but you can see the fluting i do on the sides. i do different profiles sometimes 2 short and 1 long, or all 3 same length, and once I did outside longer middle shorter and inside shorter. 2" each time shorter. that also looked good.
you wouldn't know it but that 3 piece crown profile was added in to tie into the the sides, as the crown originally went into the opening where I built in the book case. and I used my fein to cut straight up the crown on the left and right and then coped new pieces to fit in perfectly. but you can see the fluting i do on the sides. i do different profiles sometimes 2 short and 1 long, or all 3 same length, and once I did outside longer middle shorter and inside shorter. 2" each time shorter. that also looked good.
Overtime
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Just a reminder for us Yanks that are so accustomed to 1/4" and 1/2" router bits. How many times have you broken a 1/4" shanked bit while in use? Or at least , felt on the edge of breaking one?
The OF 1010 Router comes with both 1/4" and 8mm collets. If you have never had your hands on an 8mm shank bit, here are a couple of picks. The picks really do not give you a real good perspective as to the bulk size difference between the 1/4" and the 8mm bits. There is a huge difference between the two. But if you look at the collets you will get an idea. The Mass and heft of the 8mm shank is much more substantial than the 1/4"
This pic has all three sizes - left 1/4" samples - center 8mm and right 1/2" tree trunks
Note that grey Festool profile bit. That is a hefty not so little bit with an 8mm shank. Very stout !
Here is another look at the three sizes.
Before Festool I had never even heard of an 8mm router bit. But I can now say that they are much more stout than a 1/4' bit and they feel much stronger in use also. The OF 1010 is more than capable to handle these bits. The router may be small in stature but not in capability.
Festool sells a good line of 8mm bits and they can be used in both the OF 1010 and the OF 1400.
If you own one or both of these routers then chances are you have met the 8mm bits. If not then check them out.
The OF 1010 Router comes with both 1/4" and 8mm collets. If you have never had your hands on an 8mm shank bit, here are a couple of picks. The picks really do not give you a real good perspective as to the bulk size difference between the 1/4" and the 8mm bits. There is a huge difference between the two. But if you look at the collets you will get an idea. The Mass and heft of the 8mm shank is much more substantial than the 1/4"
This pic has all three sizes - left 1/4" samples - center 8mm and right 1/2" tree trunks
Note that grey Festool profile bit. That is a hefty not so little bit with an 8mm shank. Very stout !
Here is another look at the three sizes.
Before Festool I had never even heard of an 8mm router bit. But I can now say that they are much more stout than a 1/4' bit and they feel much stronger in use also. The OF 1010 is more than capable to handle these bits. The router may be small in stature but not in capability.
Festool sells a good line of 8mm bits and they can be used in both the OF 1010 and the OF 1400.
If you own one or both of these routers then chances are you have met the 8mm bits. If not then check them out.
