Home-built "MFT-XL" workbench

[leer]

I came close to buying an MFT/3, but I do not need portability, and I wanted a larger workbench that could double as an out feed table for my table saw.

Below is a thumbnail picture of my "MFT-XL". I just finished this last night, so I still have some additions I plan on, such as an apron wrapping the top, and which incorporates a vise at the end.  I have not decided if this will be a quick-release style vise like I've used before, or one of the large single or twin screw vises. But these can be added at any time. I also want to build a cabinet that sits on the bottom rails and has storage space for frequently used tools and accessories.

I have access to a large ShopBot CNC router, so I milled this from a full sheet of 3/4" MDF.  The final size was nilled to 36" X 84", since I have a small shop, and wanted plenty of clearance around the perimeter.  Shown is a 75" Festool guide rail.  I also own a set of Festool clamps. I may be one of the only people on this planet that has a this much ready to go for breaking down sheet goods using Festool products, and still does not own a Festool track saw yet! That will get remedied in a few days.  But I made a promise to myself that I would not get the track saw until I had a suitable table.  I am done with cutting plywood on the garage floor!

For compatibility, this workbench has 20mm holes.  If you look closely, there are two bright green Qwas Dogs on the workbench at the near edge in the picture.  They slide in with a nice glove fit, with no perceptible slop. I used a Whiteside 1/2" spiral upcut bit, and with 3 test holes on a scrap piece of MDF, we got the offset dialed in for a perfect fit. Since the top was milled to 36X84, I decided to go with 4" hole spacing, and a 4" edge spacing, making for a really easy layout.  I didn't see any compelling reason to duplicate Festool's 96mm hole spacing used on the MFT/3.  (And 4" is pretty darn close to 96mm).

The workbench uses Douglas Fir 4X4s for legs.  I got tired of digging thru piles of lumber at Home Depot and Lowes for another recent project, so I went to a local lumber yard and bought premium kiln-dried lumber.  The 4X4s were only $4 more expensive than the big box lumber.  The 2X4s were actually about the same price as the big box stores.

Assembly of the workbench is with pocket hole screws using a Kreg pocket hole jig.  This is the first major assembly I've done with pocket holes, and I am amazed at the strength and rigidity.

Finally, the workbench is also going to be used for my table saw.  I was planning to upgrade to a SawStop, until  I discovered what people were doing with track saws. I have decided to hang onto my BT3100, which is an incredible "contractor-style" saw. The change in plans happened when I watched Ron Paulk's videos on his workbench about a month ago.  I almost ordered his plans, but realized I did not need portability.  As simple/elegant as his workbench is, mine seemed to be a simpler approach for my needs. As I pondered how I wanted to proceed, I realized it was time to download SketchUp, which has been a real time-saver as I played around with different ideas. SketchUp is really a great tool for woodworking project design.

 

[NuggyBuggy]

With all due respect, a place where you can lay a full sheet of ply on your bench and still have room to walk around is *not* a small shop.  I'd *die* for that much contiguous, usable space in my basement shop.

Bench looks great.

 

[John Stevens]

Nice job!  I might be the only other person here who owns a BT3100, the Fender Stratocaster of table saws--cheap, capable of great performance in the right hands...and needs to be tuned every five minutes or so  [wink]

 

[overanalyze]

Nice! I am having a 4x8 sheet made to lay on my cutting table!

 

[Stoli]

Not the only one.  I own 2 BT3Ks.  One in a "Ultimate Tool Stand", one dedicated to dados.  However, I am looking to upgrade to a sawstop after a very close accident the other day (only 4 stitches).

 

[Oldwood]

Nice job!  I might be the only other person here who owns a BT3100, the Fender Stratocaster of table saws--cheap, capable of great performance in the right hands...and needs to be tuned every five minutes or so  [wink]

John,

That is a perfect description of the BT3100 [big grin] I have owned the complete package since shortly after they came out & they are a great saw for onsite work but it seems like after every job you need to give it a little TLC. Now I have a TS75 I don't need to use it for onsite panel-work and it does not get taken out of the shop that much.

Gerry

 

[leer]

NuggyBuggy,

Yeah, I guess one's view of shop size is all relative. I see shops that people build that are several thousand square feet and can only dream about that much space. At least with a "small" shop, I can tell my wife I need all these Festool products that enable one to work in a smaller shop.

Stoli,
Glad to hear you survived your accident with just needing 4 stitches.  Last October, 40+ years of accident free shop time came to an end for me.  I lost the tip of my left thumb on my table saw.  I was lucky, I could have lost multiple fingers.  I missed the bone and maybe lost about 1/2".  Oddly, no surgery or stitches, just some cleaning and a bandage.  That trip to the emergecy room was $4000 -- would have bought the SawStop and then some. I've since started using GRR-Ripper push blocks. Highly recommended.

The first time I used the table saw after the accident (several months later), I could hear my heart pounding!  I still may get a SawStop, but in the meantime I try to use my current saw in the safest manner I can.

I've nicknamed my saw Sting, and have the utmost respect for it.  

John -- great description! I always wanted a Fender.

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

I like the table.  For a small shop, I would work in a way to store tools or scrap below.  Small is relative...my shop's floor space is about 1 foot wider and 2 feet longer than that table. Good thing that I'm an elf.

Leer,
  Your story is another anecdote for a reason to get a sawstop.  Glad it wasn't worse.  I wish sawstop would just start selling patent rights to other companies. All this business of trying to get their safety device a mandatory feature, for all table saws, passed into law just seems so selfishly greedy.  Not good for their image.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I like the table.  For a small shop, I would work in a way to store tools or scrap below.  Small is relative...my shop's floor space is about 1 foot wider and 2 feet longer than that table. Good thing that I'm an elf.

Leer,
  Your story is another anecdote for a reason to get a sawstop.  Glad it wasn't worse.  I wish sawstop would just start selling patent rights to other companies. All this business of trying to get their safety device a mandatory feature, for all table saws, passed into law just seems so selfishly greedy.  Not good for their image.

They tried and got stonewalled. I have no interest in the company and can't afford their products but I don't like to see great ideas get maligned by people who are uninformed.

 

[lovemytoys]

why mdf not plywood?

 

[Slappy]

Is that MDF supported in any way in the center ?

aren't afraid it might sag ?

I was thinking on when I do mine is to laminate some plywood with the MDF  as a top OR even  1/4" Masonite on top of 3/4" Euro birch
I plan a 4' X 8' top like yours

 

[leer]

Slappy,

The top has two 2X4 supports running between the two long sides at 30" from the ends, so they fall centered between rows of holes.  These three "squares" of support are a little smaller than the size of an MFT/3 table.  I do not think sag will be an issue, but more supports could easily be added.  I considered using 1X4s to allow greater clearance for clamps, and even putting in 3-4, but the bench seems really solid as-is.  I stood on one of the 2X4 rails along the bottom, and I detected no movement, no groans or squeaks -- no flex as far as I could tell.  I think a lot of the "robustness" comes from using pocket holes coming from different sides, and therefore different angles/directions.  Every joint has 3-4 screws (#8 X 3-1/2" washer head screws). I originally thought I'd get the entire frame built, and then add more screws.  I believe it is as strong as it needs to be now.

This bench was meant to be a prototype, and if I had to, I'd build a version with larger stock such as 2X6 lumber for rails and braces.  I guess time will tell if I think that is necessary.  The good news about "2-by" lumber is that it is cheap, and can be cut up and used elsewhere, or tossed in the fireplace. 

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

Michael,
Yes, I read about that. It just appeared, to me, that these companies were trying a desperate tactic to stave off a company that has been hurting their own revenue stream.  Sawstop's safety technology has been a huge selling point for their table saw.
Michael,  I'm not sure why you quoted me, because I was refering to a different issue.

 

[Slappy]

Slappy,

The top has two 2X4 supports running between the two long sides at 30" from the ends, so they fall centered between rows of holes.  These three "squares" of support are a little smaller than the size of an MFT/3 table.  I do not think sag will be an issue, but more supports could easily be added.  I considered using 1X4s to allow greater clearance for clamps, and even putting in 3-4, but the bench seems really solid as-is.  I stood on one of the 2X4 rails along the bottom, and I detected no movement, no groans or squeaks -- no flex as far as I could tell.  I think a lot of the "robustness" comes from using pocket holes coming from different sides, and therefore different angles/directions.  Every joint has 3-4 screws (#8 X 3-1/2" washer head screws). I originally thought I'd get the entire frame built, and then add more screws.  I believe it is as strong as it needs to be now.

This bench was meant to be a prototype, and if I had to, I'd build a version with larger stock such as 2X6 lumber for rails and braces.  I guess time will tell if I think that is necessary.  The good news about "2-by" lumber is that it is cheap, and can be cut up and used elsewhere, or tossed in the fireplace. 

Sounds "Bullet Proof"  now !  ThanX I keep your design in mind on mine that will start soon . I just wish I had access to CNC like you did . I'm gonna use a MFT top as a template to get the 20mm  holes & spacing . That process Peter describes on his video , I'll use a mock-up 1st just to test it
2 x 4's sound get to me , like you I found it's worth the extra to get clear kiln dried dug fir 
Nice JOB BTW 

 

[leer]

I'm in Northern Colorado, so if you are close by, let me know.  I'll likely mill more if there is local demand.  I think shipping out of state might be prohibitively expensive, not to mention a real pain to make a shipping box. [smile]

I am going to add some additional features as time goes on, so I'll keep updating as I go.  I looked at the Ron Paulk videos again, and I like his use of add-on rails along the long sides, along with sacrificial 3/4" material under the plywood sheet to be cut,, to keep from cutting into the workbench top. I'm guessing I'll have one kerf cut similar to what is done with the MFT/3, but I want to keep from having cuts all over the top if I can.

Here is the Ron Paulk's video showing his add-on rails for his workbench.  The first part mostly covers the Festool parallel guides, but the last half shows his plywood add-on rails.

 

[Slappy]

i was thinking of adding 80/20 rail all the way round the edges & then use the 4,0r 5 of  #10 series rails across  with cut strips of mdf to then to get the cutting up off the surface  
again I'll mock up 1st
I'm in NorCal so shipping is not doable at all
BUT Thanx for the offer

 

[leer]

why mdf not plywood?

I basically duplicated the Festool MFT/3 concept for a top.  I seldom build with MDF (other than an occasional use of hardwood-veneered MDF for cabinet sides), but standard MDF mills beautifully, and makes for an incredibly smooth work surface. And its cheap!

One thing I forgot to mention is that I treated the MDF with Watco Satin Wax.  It is thin, penetrates well, and provides a bit of protection.  I applied a coat of Wipe-On Poly to the frame, but did not want to add any finish to the MDF that would have potential build-up, especially in the holes.  I had never applied any finish to MDF before, so I did a test on a scrap prior to applying to the milled top.

If I ever do another, I would like to try using MDF with a melamine laminate, for greater durability.  This really is a test, but figured not too risky based on Festool's use of MDF.

 

[lovemytoys]

are there any plans out there??im looking at building one ,what are the spaces in the holes

 

[Slappy]

If I ever do another, I would like to try using MDF with a melamine laminate, for greater durability.  

I'm gonna laminate with Formica as it's not in my case gonna be a cut surface 

 

[leer]

are there any plans out there??im looking at building one ,what are the spaces in the holes

I used 20mm holes to be compatible with all the 20mm bench dogs and other accessories for Festool tables, but you could use 3/4", since there are quite a few 3/4" bench dogs and holddown clamps.  Since I milled this on a CNC, I could have selected either, since I used a 1/2" spiral upcut bit.  The hole-to-hole spacing really does not matter so much, as long as you make the X and Y spacing the same so you get perfect 45 degree alignment along a diagonal series of holes.

Festool uses 96mm spacing, I used 4", since my tabletop is 36" X 84".  It divided evenly, and the edge of the table is 4" from the edge rows and columns of holes.

The only thing I could provide is the SketchUp model that would do you much good if you wanted this exact size of workbench.  I just started using SketchUp, so if you have not used it, it would not take much to get to my skill level.  I had issues with printing from SketchUp, so I dimensioned the table on the 3D model (really easy to do) and took a screen capture and dropped it into Word for printing.  I could provide the PDFs of this.