Home made parallel guides?

[rljatl]

I've got too many Incra T-tracks lengths because I couldn't decide on size.  The longer lengths are a pain to move around the shop especially when attached to the rail.  So, yes, I would start with 24".  I think that will cover the vast majority of uses.

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

Mine cost $15 to make and work really good.

 

[Klemm]

I'm still hoping to see a Parallel Guide approach that comes close to the ease and simplicity of a table-saw fence for ripping parallel pieces off a a wider panel piece [unsure]
Hans

PS: I'm ready to cut and shorten my INCRA tracks and stop having to walk around them!

 

[woodman_412]

Ripdogs are a well thought solution, PROVIDED, you have a 20mm hole pattern worktable [smile]

Dan's approach using an adjustable gage block to ensure absolutely identical parallel guide settings is a great way to go. No way to let parallax scale reading problems or anything like that get in the way. I had been considering this approach with my SENECA guides.  - now I will explore this approach in hopes of getting me away from those pesky INCRA segmented scales. I will just use the INCRA tracks as a means of providing stop blocks.
thanks Dan - you're a very creative fellow and craftsman. I had seen you're Multipurpose Table video before- very well thought out!

Thanks Klemm.  I thought that going with a setting jig would be the most accurate way to go since both guides are then set identical.  The only thing that I don't like as much about my setup is the speed of use but for the number of times I use them in the run of a project it's not a big issue. They were quick and easy to make and didn't cost me a cent so I'm happy with them for now.

 

[woodman_412]

Mine cost $15 to make and work really good.

Those look great.  Did you use T bolts to slide into the track?

 

[JimD]

I'm still hoping to see a Parallel Guide approach that comes close to the ease and simplicity of a table-saw fence for ripping parallel pieces off a a wider panel piece [unsure]
Hans

PS: I'm ready to cut and shorten my INCRA tracks and stop having to walk around them!

I don't think they can be quite as easy as a table saw because you have to move the track between cuts.  You don't have to move the rip fence.  On the other hand, the wood cannot drift away from the track saw track and mess up the cut.  Both means of cutting have + and -.  It takes a bit longer with the track saw but when the wood being cut is large, I like the track saw.  It is just easier to move a 11 lb saw over the wood than to move a larger piece of plywood past the stationary blade.  Any of these ideas will let you cut pieces consistently the same width with the track saw. 

 

[Oldwood]

When cutting narrow say 1-1/2" wide how do you support the rest of the saw track and Incra track?

Thanks,
Gerry

 

[Klemm]

I'm still hoping to see a Parallel Guide approach that comes close to the ease and simplicity of a table-saw fence for ripping parallel pieces off a a wider panel piece [unsure]
Hans

PS: I'm ready to cut and shorten my INCRA tracks and stop having to walk around them!

I don't think they can be quite as easy as a table saw because you have to move the track between cuts.  You don't have to move the rip fence.  On the other hand, the wood cannot drift away from the track saw track and mess up the cut.  Both means of cutting have + and -.  It takes a bit longer with the track saw but when the wood being cut is large, I like the track saw.  It is just easier to move a 11 lb saw over the wood than to move a larger piece of plywood past the stationary blade.  Any of these ideas will let you cut pieces consistently the same width with the track saw.

Track- vs Table Saw: perhaps it is best summed up by the comment from a seasoned remodeling contractor:
-if it's BIGGER than the saw, take it to the track saw
-if it's smaller than the saw take it to the table saw

what do you think? made sense to me since I have access to a table saw and TS-55

Hans

 

[Klemm]

When cutting narrow say 1-1/2" wide how do you support the rest of the saw track and Incra track?

Thanks,
Gerry

OLDWOOD, can you clarify the size of the wood you are starting with and confirm that you want to cut a 1 1/2" strip off?
Hans

 

[Oldwood]

Hi Hlemm,

I am thinking about cutting 1.5" strips off of a 4x8' sheet of ply so I get 1.5" x 8' strips. I have the Seneca parallel guides and it seems they want to tip down on side the Incra track attaches. I think that would be why people tend to go to the table saw for the pieces too narrow to have the Festool saw track sit flat on top of?

Thanks,
Gerry

 

[rvieceli]

[member=7143]Oldwood[/member]  try throwing some scrap pieces the same thickness as the piece you are cutting under the back edge of the guide rail. that will give the rail something to balance on.

Or try taking a couple of small pieces of the material and sticking them to the Incra t-track behind where the narrow guide parts are and that would also keep the track flatter. You could use double sided carpet tape

 

[Oldwood]

I'll give that a try.

Thanks,
Gerry

 

[rmwarren]

[member=7143]Oldwood[/member] - Another way to both support the rail and make narrow rips is to use a spacer of the same thickness as the material you are ripping. Start with a piece of scrap at least as wide and the guide rail + guide bracket and preferably as long as the stock you plan to cut. With any of the aftermarket guides (Rip/Seneca/Precision) or even homemade, you run the stops all the way against the guide rail brackets, then cut the scrap. Next move your stops the exact distance of the cut you want to make (ignore the scale and measure or use a spacer to set the exact distance between the stops and brackets), and with the new spacer touching the stops slide the stock to be cut under the rail against it and make the cut.

This may not makes much sense verbally, but it is covered in the setup instructions for the guides you can download here.

RMW

 

[Klemm]

Hi Hlemm,

I am thinking about cutting 1.5" strips off of a 4x8' sheet of ply so I get 1.5" x 8' strips. I have the Seneca parallel guides and it seems they want to tip down on side the Incra track attaches. I think that would be why people tend to go to the table saw for the pieces too narrow to have the Festool saw track sit flat on top of?

Thanks,
Gerry

Gerry, I too have a SENECA PG set but can't picture why you would have a problem. If something in my setup is not supported to a level height I just add some scrap to make up the difference. I'm going to my wood shop and will see for myself where an issue such as you describe might arise. Maybe I can send you a picture later today if there is something worth showing.
Hans aka Klemm

 

[Oldwood]

Hi, Klemm & Richard,

I guess the problem I am having is because I am using the narrow stock adapters. They make it awkward to support end to end. I think Richards method solves my problem. Richard that makes all kinds of sense to me! Thanks for the idea and the link to your manual.

Gerry

 

[Klemm]

Hi Hlemm,

I am thinking about cutting 1.5" strips off of a 4x8' sheet of ply so I get 1.5" x 8' strips. I have the Seneca parallel guides and it seems they want to tip down on side the Incra track attaches. I think that would be why people tend to go to the table saw for the pieces too narrow to have the Festool saw track sit flat on top of?

Thanks,
Gerry

Gerry, after not being able to replicate the problem you described I reread the other posts. Now I realize you are placing the Guie Rail on the 1.5 inch strip of wood rather than on the 46.5 width of the plywood sheet. No wonder.
By now I hope you followed RIPDOGs suggestions and are happily on your way with the additional help of the link to his excellent user instructions. Let's know how it all went.
Hans (Klemm)

 

[JimD]

This sort of cut is why I have two track saw setting jigs.  I would use the one for cutting a piece ahead of the track so the track can be on the wide piece of plywood and the cut piece ahead of the track.  Works great.  Simple and cheap to make.  This is also a cut that Festool offers a special setup for.  It also allows you to keep the track on the wide piece of wood. 

My jig has a dado that goes over the rib that guides the saw and a movable block with a pointer and stick on scale.  For this jig, the distance accounts for the saw kerf and sets the track back the distance you want to cut plus the kerf.  The other jig goes the other direction working like your parallel guides.  I could have made two but since I clamp, I just use the same jig on both ends clamping as I go (and double checking the end I do first). 

I cut on narrow pieces of wood sometimes by supporting the track with scrap as has been suggested.  But I can't clamp under those circumstances and I like to clamp so I avoid it.

 

[Klemm]

This sort of cut is why I have two track saw setting jigs.  I would use the one for cutting a piece ahead of the track so the track can be on the wide piece of plywood and the cut piece ahead of the track.  Works great.  Simple and cheap to make.  This is also a cut that Festool offers a special setup for.  It also allows you to keep the track on the wide piece of wood. 

My jig has a dado that goes over the rib that guides the saw and a movable block with a pointer and stick on scale.  For this jig, the distance accounts for the saw kerf and sets the track back the distance you want to cut plus the kerf.  The other jig goes the other direction working like your parallel guides.  I could have made two but since I clamp, I just use the same jig on both ends clamping as I go (and double checking the end I do first). 

I cut on narrow pieces of wood sometimes by supporting the track with scrap as has been suggested.  But I can't clamp under those circumstances and I like to clamp so I avoid it.

JimD - that sounds like a real solution. any chance of getting some pictures with explanation for both operations?
Hans

 

[Oldwood]

I would like to comment on the problem of the Seneca guides not mounting quickly because of the square nuts. I found this quite irritating and solved it quite simply by replacing the square nuts with the Lee Valley .25" t slot nuts. They are a bit too wide for the track but a few swipes with a sharp file on each side and they slide right in. I think this is the way they should ship them.

Also the Allen head bolts for attaching the guide to the track I replaced with a small press fit knurled knob and a .625" cap screw & washer also from Lee Valley. This makes it quick and easy to mount and remove the guides and my TS 75 just barely bumps the knob if I am at full depth of cut, and I don't remember ever needing to cut that deep.

Gerry

 

[Scorpion]

I've been looking for the metric t-slot nuts to fit those tracks but haven't found them yet.  Anyone know which ones they are by chance?