Homemade MFS 600 router template

[Justin Michael]

My addition to the DIY MFS router template library.  I needed to cut an opening for a router lift, and lacking $500 to get the MFS 700, i decided to use $40 in parts and leftover plywood to make my own. Each leg is 87mm wide (including the t-track), the long sides are 600mm and the short sides are 400mm.  The thumbscrew cut out was made with a 1 1/4" forstner bit and a chisel to square it up.

I used Incra t-track, and a pack of Woodpecker-branded hardware with knurled nuts i found at Woodcraft.  I added an external tooth lock washer to keep the nut tight while routing.

I wanted to use baltic birch plywood but it was about 1mm too narrow for the width of t-track (18mm vs 3/4"), so i used traditional plywood which worked out fine.  I still need to dado a groove in the underside to accept more t-track for use with clamps and make a "puck" of some sort.  I may also add some adhesive tape measure so i know the thing is exactly square, but it was extremely accurate out of the gate.

If i were to make another set i may try baltic birch and just sand the t-track flush, or use solid hardwood like maple milled to the exact width of the track.

I think it worked out well.  The thumbscrews stayed tight during my test cuts, which was my only real concern.

 

[John Beauchamp]

Well done, save that money for a domino or something else you can't make your self

 

[Acrobat]

Thats nifty. Saves a lot of $$. Looks like it will work quite well, clever adaptation you've made there. Now you've got me thinking about doing the same, damn you I've enough to do's already! [wink]

 

[mike_aa]

Splendid.  Looks like it would be pretty easy to make. 

What I really like is if you put together six lengths you have additional versatility.  I have a situation where I'd like route an L-shaped recess under a table top to house some legs and six of these would be a great way to do that.

Thanks for the inspiration.

Mike A.

 

[Woodwork Wizard]

A brilliantly simple idea that works well = real genius. Looks a lot less fiddly (and far cheaper) than the Festool MFS to set up too.

I wish I'd seen this 3 months ago before I bought the MFS 400 set and 700 as I would definitely have copied this.

 

[waho6o9]

Excellent

 

[Picktool]

Cool... I think i'll give it a go too.

I think i'll try a Hex bolt and have the nut inside
track and use a T-handle ball end allen wrench.
Might be a lil easier than that knurled nut.

 

[mlkm18]

I have been thinking of similar design but use of tracks is indeed a brilliant idea. 

 

[ben_r_]

Nice design! Think Ill be putting one of these together myself!

 

[RobNJ]

That looks awesome!  I've been looking at doing something similar.
My main question is whether the right approach is using the T-track along with plywood?
Or skipping right to 8020 and only having to use one component.

I'll admit that I haven't worked much in 80/20 and don't know if there are any cost / profile functionality issues.

 

[HarveyWildes]

That looks awesome!  I've been looking at doing something similar.
My main question is whether the right approach is using the T-track along with plywood?
Or skipping right to 8020 and only having to use one component.

I'll admit that I haven't worked much in 80/20 and don't know if there are any cost / profile functionality issues.

WRT an 80/20 solution,

I just priced out a 800mm x 600mm set of 1"x3" 10 series extrusions, direct from 80/20, including drilling counterbores for the 3395 fasteners, and it came out to less than $140 shipped.  I priced it with 4 pieces of 1x3, each with two counterbores on one end, 8 3395 fasteners, 4 1x3 end caps, 12 end cap fasteners, and a 5/32 ball end hex driver.  There are a couple of pieces missing as compared to the Virutex kit - the router support being the most noticeable.  However, I would think that would be relatively easy to make, and the Festool routers also take the handy little foot for leveling when used with the festool tracks.

The thing that you lose compared to the Virutex kit is at least 1/4" of router bit length.  I'm not sure of the exact thickness of the Virutex track, but the homemade ply track is just under 3/4" for the plywood, I assume.  I'm not sure exactly how wide the track on the plywood solution is.

Aside from losing 1/4" of bit height, any thoughts on the use of 80/20 as an alternative for an MFS substitute?

 

[Svar]

Aside from losing 1/4" of bit height, any thoughts on the use of 80/20 as an alternative for an MFS substitute?

MFS is 16 mm thick, 8020 10 series is 25.4 mm.
Festool clamps don't fit into 10 series, they have 6 mm wide t-slots.
No scale on 8020.

 

[HarveyWildes]

Aside from losing 1/4" of bit height, any thoughts on the use of 80/20 as an alternative for an MFS substitute?

MFS is 16 mm thick, 8020 10 series is 25.4 mm.
Festool clamps don't fit into 10 series, they have 6 mm wide t-slots.
No scale on 8020.

So I'd be losing just about 3/8" of bit height - ouch!  The clamps and scale would not be too bad for most of what I do.

 

[Svar]

Aside from losing 1/4" of bit height, any thoughts on the use of 80/20 as an alternative for an MFS substitute?

MFS is 16 mm thick, 8020 10 series is 25.4 mm.
Festool clamps don't fit into 10 series, they have 6 mm wide t-slots.
No scale on 8020.

So I'd be losing just about 3/8" of bit height - ouch!  The clamps and scale would not be too bad for most of what I do.

Not to bad for straight bits, but is a problem for dish cutting and surface bits, which are fairly short.

 

[rmwarren]

I'd be inclined to use the OP's original design but replace the ply/AL extrusion with a single piece of 3/4" or 5/8" plastic or hardwood and use a t-slot router bit like this one to cut a slot in the edges:

[attachimg=1]

Could also cut slots in the bottom face for some sort of (non-Festool) clamps.

If I ever get thru my current project list I make try this out.

RMW

 

[Michael Kellough]

Another problem with using 80/20 extrusions with custom machining (making you dependent on their cuts) is that their tolerance for miters/bevels is too loose to be useful for a precision jig. While they promise lengths to be +- 1/64" the spec for miters/bevels is +- 1 degree. Atrocious.

 

[anthonyz]

I have been wanting to make one of these, just been too busy and haven't needed one in a while. Have an upcoming job where the MFS would come in handy. I like Justin's design. I just wanted to make a design which only required drilling holes other than milling out the width and length of the arms. I made 3d printed inserts and an end guide for each one. They worked out ok. I think I will make another with a larger hole whre the adjustment nut is, as I think a hex nut will be easier to tighten than the thumb screws if the jig is somewhat in place, and needs minor adjustments. I added some holes in the side with my domino, so it can be clamped without the clamps getting in the way of the router when using the jig. Thanks Justin for the great idea. 

 

[J0hn]

Trend makes a jig that is pretty reasonably priced.  I paid $100 for it from Amazon, I see the price has now crept up to $120:
https://www.amazon.com/Trend-VARIJIG-Frame-System/dp/B001UQ5PDK

 

[anthonyz]

I was looking at the system. but I had extra track that's been sitting around for over a year, and all the parts to make the one I did, so my cost basically free. I had it on my amazon wish list, but I don't think I will be getting that now.

 

[Joe Church]

Very nice. Thanks 
JC