How Can I Screw Up a Picture Frame

DavidCBaker

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Joined
May 31, 2010
Messages
537
I know--weird question to ask. But I've never made one, and I'm just making stuff up as I go. [big grin] I've used a cove bit and a plunge ovolo, coming up with my own design. This is just messing around in plywood before I turn the 2200 loose on some beautiful mahogany.

What do I need to be careful about? Pretend I'm a newbie and you'll be pretty darn close.  ;D

trial1.jpg


trial2.jpg
 
David,

You already have the tools;  and are working on the skills.  Just build the frame. ( from scrap materials)  If it's not right, chuck it and build another.  Then when it's not right, chuck it, and so on, and so on, etc. 

There could be a thousand replies to your question, but only you will find the answer (s). 

Practice, Practice, Practice.

Dan
 
What did you cut the miters with?  It looks like from the picture that you have deflection in you saw blade.  Could be that your blade needs sharpening or that you are using a thin blade with dense wood.  Is that birch?
 
Sample looks real good. I don't think you'll have too much trouble. A couple of points
- when I am cutting hardwoods for such miters I feed slower in order to combat any blade deflection
- I know my chopsaw very well and can bias it a hair to take more off the back side than the front. This allows the front to really pull together nice. The probably better and safer way to do it, is to hit the miter with a file a few times. A few swipes with a good file can really close up a miter.
- You do know that the face will have to be sanded no matter what, right? Don't drive yourself crazy trying to get the face perfectly even.
- A domino or biscuit is a good way to keep the face even for years to come. If you have either tool use it.
- Depending on how the frame will be hung and weight, I like to pre-drill and tie the corners together with a #1 screw
- Remember, DON'T use any of the Gorilla glue cr-p
Good luck, Markus
 
Dan Rush said:
Practice, Practice, Practice.

I think you're right. I was going to dive into the mahogany next, but I think I'd better build an entire frame from plywood and see how it goes.
 
Rutabagared said:
End grain is porous and doesn't form a strong glue joint.  To combat this, try to design the frame to allow for reinforcement of the miter joints.  I recommend providing enough clearance (width and/or thickness) to add a domino to each mitered corner.  This will add a tremendous amount of strength and make alignment during glue-up much easier.

Also, I've found the band clamp to be the most effective method of clamping the mitered corners.  Good luck!

I think I'll do the domino idea. I haven't used that tool yet, either, so it'll be good practice.

And the clamps are on order.  [thanks]
 
Chris Hughes said:
What did you cut the miters with?  It looks like from the picture that you have deflection in you saw blade.  Could be that your blade needs sharpening or that you are using a thin blade with dense wood.  Is that birch?

I noticed that same deflection. I cut them with the Kapex saw set at 45 degrees. The blade is the one that came with the saw, though, and it's barely been used. I wouldn't have expected much deflection in plywood.

Any suggestions to get rid of it? Is deflection a partial result of saw blade speed or feed?
 
Holzhacker said:
- when I am cutting hardwoods for such miters I feed slower in order to combat any blade deflection

Are you using your table saw? Will I get less deflection on that than with the Kapex? I'll try to feed slower, too.

Thanks to ALL of you for the sound advice. I'm pumped about the project.
 
Maybe you are allowing the wood to move slightly which is causing the inconsistent cut.  Try clamping the pieces before making the cut.
Edit: I apologize for the poor quality of the picture, I took it with my cell phone.  Here is the corner of a frame I just made that was 56" x 80". 

 
I use my Bosch sliding compound miter. I think there might still be an old table saw under my back porch, don't remember for sure. Haven't used a table saw of my own for many years. Saw too many older carpenters with missing digits. Prior to Festool I became very proficient at clampling makeshift rails and using circular saws.
Have fun with your latest project. After a few you'll be a whiz.
Markus
 
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