How Do I Setup For Parf Guide II?

[darita]

I obviously want my first row of holes to be dead on, so how should I best setup for that?  I suppose I need to meticulous in doing so. Are there any videos on this?

 

[TSO_Products]

[member=418]darita[/member]  - easy to find authoritative video how-to on TSO's website:https://tsoproducts.com/jigs-fixtures-guides/parf-guide-system/ujk-parf-guide-system-mark-ii/

Peter Parfitt and I hope this helps [wink]

Hans

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The first row is the easiest. It's nothing more than drilling through the holes in one of the sticks. You should clamp it to the table, to be sure it does not move, but aligning it to the edge of the table top takes no more precision than a combo square. Set the square to the dimension you want and butt the stick against it, on both ends, of course. Even then it's not a huge thing. The precision is in the grid of holes, not the reference to the edges. That isn't necessary.

 

[Shavings]

I have the Parf original version.  The edges of the Parf original ruler weren't necessarily parallel to the line of holes.  When I made my first benchtop, the holes were slightly out of square due to this.  As I recall, I have read of other owners of the original Parf ruler having experienced this.
To compensate, I locate the ruler on the worktop where I want the first hole to be, drill the hole, and insert one 3mm pin.  Then I use an adjustable to square to determine the distance from the edge of the benchtop to the edge of this inserted pin.  Then I place another 3mm pin in the other end of ruler and use the square to make sure that I am getting the same distance from edge of the benchtop to the edge of the second pin in the ruler, adjust the ruler, if necessary, and then drill the second hole.  From that point on, I follow the instructions.  The Par II version may not have this issue but you may want to verify.

 

[rmwarren]

My approach is to run my first row of holes at least 1/2" inboard of the distance I want to the final edge, finish boring the entire top, then using the 3rd row of holes with dogs and some precise spacers, trim the top with a track saw to the final dimensions.

Whew, talk about run-on sentences...

RMW

 

[darita]

My approach is to run my first row of holes at least 1/2" inboard of the distance I want to the final edge, finish boring the entire top, then using the 3rd row of holes with dogs and some precise spacers, trim the top with a track saw to the final dimensions.

Whew, talk about run-on sentences...

RMW

RMW, this makes the most sense to me.  Drill the holes, then make the edges parallel with the holes.  This is what I'll do. 
Now I know there's a jig that assists you in making sure the holes are machined at 90*, however I always have issues with that, so is there a reliable way to make sure you're not tipping the jig along with the drill?

 

[gunnyr]

RMW, this makes the most sense to me.  Drill the holes, then make the edges parallel with the holes.  This is what I'll do. 
Now I know there's a jig that assists you in making sure the holes are machined at 90*, however I always have issues with that, so is there a reliable way to make sure you're not tipping the jig along with the drill?

I have found that by taking my time and following Peter's guidance that my dog holes come out at 90 degrees (or at least close enough that I am unable to detect the variation 8))  Like many things in life, by taking my time and being deliberate I get great results.  No shortcuts!  I have also found that I  need to take regular breaks during tedious, repetitive tasks.

 

[rmwarren]

RMW, this makes the most sense to me.  Drill the holes, then make the edges parallel with the holes.  This is what I'll do. 
Now I know there's a jig that assists you in making sure the holes are machined at 90*, however I always have issues with that, so is there a reliable way to make sure you're not tipping the jig along with the drill?

I have found that by taking my time and following Peter's guidance that my dog holes come out at 90 degrees (or at least close enough that I am unable to detect the variation 8))  Like many things in life, by taking my time and being deliberate I get great results.  No shortcuts!  I have also found that I  need to take regular breaks during tedious, repetitive tasks.

Agreed. I was sloppy on my first couple tops and ended up with minor issues on hole spacing or alignment of the rows. On the top I made last week I was more diligent and everything ended up spot on.

Have fun.

 

[jbarr]

The RMW method does make sense for a loose board but what if your doing this on an existing bench top? "Shavings" method above looks good unless someone has a better way.

 

[darita]

I always seem to drill holes at a slight angle, so I'm thinking about using my drill angle jig.  Has anyone else had issues with this or tried using a drill angle jig?

 

[Michael Kellough]

This seems like a simple solution.

My glasses correct for a significant astigmatism but cause one eye to see things at the wrong angle, making drilling square to a surface more difficult than it used to be. I’m going to try this tip.