How do mitre boards with different thicknesses using a Domino?

AJDarcy

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Feb 22, 2024
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I want to create a mitre joint between two boards that are different thicknesses.  I want the outside of the mitre to be aligned, and not the inside.

To mitre with the Domino normally, I would lie the boards in a trapezoid shape, where the top is shorter than the bottom as the two sides are mitred 45 degrees.  Then set the domino to 45 degrees, and use in the inside face (the shorter) face of the board as a reference for the height of the domino cut.  But because this is referencing off the inside face, if I do this using boards of different thicknesses, the mitre joint will be perfect on the inside, and not on the outside.

Is there a way I can reference the outside face of the boards, so that the mitre is aligned on the outside of the joint?
Not sure i've explained it well - so i've included a picture.
 

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Boris Beaulant fashioned a bevel jig to register the fence against the face side of the work, thus ensuring that the bevel or miter joint is tight on the outside edge. Someone should be able to find the link to his original idea/post.

In use, with the fence set to 90* and set at the appropriate height, register the fence on the thin work with the bevel jig tight against the workpiece. Plunge the machine to mill the mortises on the joint. Without changing the setting, repeat it on the thicker piece.

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Remember the setting is done using the thinner piece as a reference.
 

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This is one instance where I prefer the Zeta P2 over the Domino; the Zeta's auxiliary foot/fence has the 45-degree outside miter built right in.

I sometimes forget which tool has which when I start to answer these questions.  Luckily Chuck had a great option at the ready!
 
ChuckS said:
Boris Beaulant fashioned a bevel jig to register the fence against the face side of the work, thus ensuring that the bevel or miter joint is tight on the outside edge. Someone should be able to find the link to his original idea/post.

What a clever jig. Referencing the outside seems like it would provide a much more stable setup during the plunge.
 
This technique works well on shorter pieces which are held vertically, but for very long ones, it is not as easy to register the  workpieces that are laid flat on a workbench and plunge as the standard method.

For tight miter joints, the critical thing remains to be the accurate cutting of the joints themselves.
 
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