How do you feel you rank at applying wood finishes?

Simultaneously intrigued and humbled by the finish process.
 
I'm going to go with the Einstein principle on this - "The more we know, the more we know that we don't know."  I wish there were a place like the Festool end user classes where one could go to get a leg up on learning how to do finishes right. 

 
Sparktrician said:
I'm going to go with the Einstein principle on this - "The more we know, the more we know that we don't know."  I wish there were a place like the Festool end user classes where one could go to get a leg up on learning how to do finishes right. 

Willy

You are correct. The paint/finishing industry has done a lousy job of providing education and training. It is a big gap, a major issue. The carpentry/remodeling (wood) industries have done a much better job in that department. Hoping to see a big change on our end.
 
Scott B. said:
Sparktrician said:
I'm going to go with the Einstein principle on this - "The more we know, the more we know that we don't know."  I wish there were a place like the Festool end user classes where one could go to get a leg up on learning how to do finishes right. 

Willy

You are correct. The paint/finishing industry has done a lousy job of providing education and training. It is a big gap, a major issue. The carpentry/remodeling (wood) industries have done a much better job in that department. Hoping to see a big change on our end.

Scott, what are you waiting for??  Get out there are start teaching!  Really, a Katz like painting/finishing roadshow would be awesome. 
 
Brice Burrell said:
Scott B. said:
Sparktrician said:
I'm going to go with the Einstein principle on this - "The more we know, the more we know that we don't know."  I wish there were a place like the Festool end user classes where one could go to get a leg up on learning how to do finishes right. 

Willy

You are correct. The paint/finishing industry has done a lousy job of providing education and training. It is a big gap, a major issue. The carpentry/remodeling (wood) industries have done a much better job in that department. Hoping to see a big change on our end.

Scott, what are you waiting for??  Get out there are start teaching!  Really, a Katz like painting/finishing roadshow would be awesome. 

Thanks Brice. Nothing could really ever compare to the carpentry roadshows for remodelers/builders/carpenters. I've never been to one, but have only ever heard great things about them.

In the paint/finish industry, the biggest problem is the profound lack of young people entering the trade. Its dismal. That's where we need to start. Our industry has failed in that category. Followed closely by failure to provide training for the contractors of today.

 
I agree that a Katz Roadshow style class for finishing would be very helpful. It is such a broad topic with multiple applications and products. I can see how it is a lifetime pursuit.
 
Speaking of wood finishes ... I need some advice
Just picked up one of those nice, older, Danish modern conference tables for my new office. Haven't taken any pics yet. Surface finish isn't terrible but could use some work. I'd like to lightly sand the top, touch up the stain finish and put a new surface finish on.
I don't want to actually 'sand' the top, just sort of take the top layer of worn finish off so I can stain and refinish. I would consider this furniture refinishing. Not something I am great at. I can pull off spot repairs pretty well but a whole top is more than my skill level.
I'm thinking a light 1000 or 2000 grit quick polish to remove the top coat? Also thinking my ets125 would be too rough for this, RO90 too small; Good excuse to buy a 150/3? Touch-up stain and then apply a nice top coat. Would rather not use Poly but don't know what to use.
Please advise on grits and finish if you can. I will go by the office tomorrow and take a couple pics of the top and really nice bow tie legs.
Thanks, Markus
 
Scuff the finish with 320-400, you don't want to polish the top, the new coat may not bite. How old is the table, you may have a finish compatibility issue.

Pics will help, especially of the worn area(s).

Tom
 
Markus

We just did an antique oak desk in our shop. Scrub down with denatured alcohol and scotchbrite first, you will be amazed how much surface grime comes off. Wear rubber gloves.
 
What a coincidence that you post this thread Peter. Just this afternoon I FINALLY am getting ready to move out a dinning room table and four chairs that I (very reluctantly) refinished (read: for a friend of a friend). Completely took over the shop and if i described to you what i went through to get this done my post here would be very, very long. Short story is although it came out just fine it is very much below standard when you consider how much time I spent.

For me finishing a "project" that I build start to "finish" is not a problem at all. I always take extra care every step of the way during construction to properly prepare all surfaces for finish. I then generally stick to my "tried and true" methods although lately I have branched out into some new areas (i.e. dyes and NGR stains). The finish I prefer most is shellac and/or lacquer. Right now I am not equipped to spray but most of my experience is spraying lacquer (for furniture). However, I have noticed a trend towards paint-finished work and I am still learning much in getting a good finish with solid coat materials.

I am of the opinion to develop a good finishing system and stick with it. When I refinish I seem to jump around and this causes serious stress.

A very interesting discussion here!  Thanks to all who contributed...

John
 
John

I feel your pain. We have about 80 pieces of exterior teak furniture in shop right now for refinishing.
 
Holzhacker- have had great results from the alcohol/steel wool or abrasive pad cleaning method. it can even take off old finish, not just dirt and gunk. and it is very hard to do any damage with this method.

are the tables danish modern as in mid 20th century production, in teak, with an oil finish? much of that furniture was never stained in production, just oiled with non modified linseed or tung oil. most pieces i've seen are colored darker only through age. post a pic if you can? if they are old it might be great to redo them in the original manner.
 
I hate finishing.

I only ever use 3 finishes: Paint, (which I brush on); Varnish (which I brush on); and oil, which I brush on (seeing a pattern here?) or wipe on, and wipe off.

The first coat I quite enjoy, but I detest putting additional coats on!

I don't have the room or the equipment to spray, though I did spray quite a few pieces at college, and would be fairly confident in doing it again. I'm contemplating getting a spray gun, but I need to get a new (quiet!) compressor first.

Staining just fills me with dread - I've only ever tried it a couple of times, and it always comes out blotchy/patchy and/or the wrong colour. It's all very well doing a flat, even test piece, but when you do your final 'money' piece it has nooks & crannies, different shapes, etc that the test piece doesn't...

I once did a large pine built-in bookcase (about 3m wide x 2m high) with a coloured wax paste, applied with a cloth. It worked well, and the finish was nice, but by the end of it (2 full days, about 6 coats) my fingers were red raw & stinging from the wax getting into the cracks in my fingertips (I know, I should wear gloves, but I just can't get on with them. No tactile feedback, feel very clumsy wearing them, plus they're very sweaty). I'd probably be faily confident using similar again, if the need ever came up.

Once finished a small box with french polish at college. FAR too time consuming for me I'm afraid.
 
Sparktrician said:
I'm going to go with the Einstein principle on this - "The more we know, the more we know that we don't know."  I wish there were a place like the Festool end user classes where one could go to get a leg up on learning how to do finishes right. 

ITW, the company formed by the amalgamation of Binks and DeVilbiss industrial finishing published some spray finishing documents. One of the documents that I have found helpful is the Spray Gun Spray Faults published in 2004.
While it doesn't address HVLP specifically, most of the troubleshooting  solutions do apply.
I have attached the document, it is also available here.
Tim
 
Good find, Tim.  Do you know of any other documents like this that might be useful in guiding people that are new to the world of HVLP finishing? 

[smile]
 
Sparktrician said:
Good find, Tim.  Do you know of any other documents like this that might be useful in guiding people that are new to the world of HVLP finishing? 

ITW, changed their site access but both the DeVilbiss and Binks have product specific and general information on spraying. The "Trigger Happy" poster on the Binks literature page is much like the document I posted and for folks who have never sprayed the ABC's of Spray Finishing-English on the DeVilbis site might help.
I think the hardest part is just getting started, after that it's fixing mistakes  [wink]

There are some interesting articles on the Vivilon site.
As they say on the bottom of one of their articles: Think, Experiment, Test, Adjust, Test, Perfect
Tim
 
Tim Raleigh said:
Sparktrician said:
Good find, Tim.  Do you know of any other documents like this that might be useful in guiding people that are new to the world of HVLP finishing? 

ITW, changed their site access but both the DeVilbiss and Binks have product specific and general information on spraying. The "Trigger Happy" poster on the Binks literature page is much like the document I posted and for folks who have never sprayed the ABC's of Spray Finishing-English on the DeVilbis site might help.
I think the hardest part is just getting started, after that it's fixing mistakes  [wink]

There are some interesting articles on the Vivilon site.
As they say on the bottom of one of their articles: Think, Experiment, Test, Adjust, Test, Perfect
Tim

Thanks for the input, Tim.  Looks like a bit of reading is in store. 

[smile]
 
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