How fast to reposition the guide on the Festool circular saw guide system?

[Icestation2]

Ice, there isn't four stops, there are only two. The FS-PA and the FS-PA-VL share stops. When the VLs are being used you remove the stops from the FS-PA guide and put them on the VLs.

I can see you aren't really can't grasp the complete concept over the internet, I strongly recommend you visit a Festool dealer in your area to see the guides in person and demo them there. The FOG is a great place to learn about Festool's products but it can't compete with a good Festool dealer to show you in person the tools. Good luck.

I understand what you mean about the two stops now. I was slightly confused when JeromeM mentioned about the two stops being used on the FS-PA sections which didn't make much sense if you are cutting thin strips using the extensions.

 

[Frank-Jan]

You should also consider this thingy:

link
Then there's NO repositioning of the guiderail, and it costs a lot less than the FS PA + VL's

Due to the double clamping and the full length support it is a lot more accurate than a regular parallel guide on a regular circular saw.
I have the FS-PA things myself, but I decided not to get the VL parts, because the parallel guide works well for me, and stores in the systainer in such a manner I don't have to remove it everytime I use the saw.

For me it works very well on the right side of the blade, but it doesn't on the left (sawbase-side); I think this is because of the slight toe in of the TS saws.
/edit: only just saw Steve mentioned it already

 

[wnagle]

Frank-Jan,

How hard is it to start your cut and plunge without getting kickback?

 

[JeromeM]

[I don't quite understand. You obviously have to use the two stops on the extensions (FS- PA-VL) but if you also have to use the other two stops on the FS-PA sections as well then they must need to be adjusted to make a new cut because the sheet is shorter. If you are using all four stops then surely at least two of them must be moved after each cut.

As brice said you get 2 stops. They should always be positioned against the dimensioned work piece (DW).

If you are cutting wide pieces then they are put on the far side of the rail to the saw.  
{ stop - DW - rail - saw }

As you will be cutting narrow strips the stops are positioned so the dimensioned piece is outboard of the saw and rail.
{ rail - saw - DW - stop}

So you should use the Splinterguard  to get the best result

 

[Frank-Jan]

Wayne, I don't remember the saw having kickback-tendencies when plunging.

The strips I used it for were wider (5-7cm) and thinner (18 mm) than the strips mentioned here.

Downsides are you don't have the splinterguard of the guiderail, and you have to be carefull at the end of the cut, so not to damage the other end of the workpiece with the spinning blade. (the parallel guide doesn't need a lot of side pressure to stay on track like one for a regular circular saw does)

 

[Tinker]

For my own situation, it comes down to a matter of space and herniated discs.
My shop has barely enough space for me to move around, let alone move large sheets of anything.
If i had the space to move large (even small) sheets, my back jumps in with total disagreement.
If i want to rip long dimension lumber, there is no room to slide it across a tablesaw top.
Everything needs to be cut in place.

Enter ATF 55, MFT 1080/800, various sizes of guide rails, lots of clamps and scraps of lumber for stops & jigs.
I have made multiple rips of 3/4" on 3/4 ply, as well as various sizes of dimension lumber. 
Also have made multiple rips of 3/8" width on 1/2" stock.  Even cut 45? corner cuts with the same setup, only a 45? guide added to the mix.
I do not have the FS-PA, but after looking it over (Thanks Brice) I can see how it might help with repetitive cuts.
Also, Steve Jones has invented a setup for using a TS 55 as a table saw.  Very interesting.

My old table saw has been retired t the barn where it is currently gathering rust and dust.
If I had plenty of space to work, it might still be in my shop.

I do not see that a panel saw frame would be an advantage over TS 55, guide rails and MFT's other than taking up wall space.
The MFT/TS 55 and varous jig setups give you far more versatility than any panel saw I have observed. (key word here is "observed")
Gotta run.  A whole lot of cuttin' to do not related to Festool.  More related to Fesque  ;D and lots of working spaces to ride around in.
Tinker

 

[Kevin Stricker]

That parallel guide looks like the best Festool for the job.

 

[bruce-ter]

Icestation2,
I re-read some of your posts, sounds like you are trying get something established.  You already are making the strips but want to make the process more efficient now, an intermediate step to the best solution when time and money allow.  I can't see 10 second strips happening with a manual system.  I think taking the time to build a jig to eliminate measuring and setup is the place to save time.  Make the guide a permanent part of the jig, attach it at 90 degrees, devise a quick way of repositioning either the saw or the MDF to 17mm cut.  Build the spacing and squareness into the jig, then it just becomes a matter of repetition.  Dealing with the cut strips is another matter that you probably have a handle on.

 

[fshanno]

IcestationZebra I mean 2,

You can leave the saw on the guide using the FS-PA/VL.  I tried it and it works.  You just have to have a guide long enough so you can get it well past the work.  It was just about as easy to slide the guide.  This was on sanded plywood.  In your case the 1900 should do it.  This is kind of a big deal in that it will save time and energy with repetitive cuts like yours.  Also, I don't think clamping will be necessary, I've done repetitive cuts on melamine and it seems to track well enough.

Or you could try one of these.

[attachimg=1]

It's a repo on sale for $49,000.