How many watts to trigger CT26 Auto On feature?

Hi, most are fired by a current sensing switch,they become time sensitive,1 sec 2 sec and so on.If you are talking from a tool start if auto clean i dont know
 

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Thanks for contributing some info.

FWIW, I am trying to set up a inexpensive remote switch for the CT26 at a club house installation where we are using air scribes rather than electric power tools. The air power comes from a compressor/tank combo that is remotely located. Furthermore, the duty cycle of the air compressor does not necessarily coincide with the desired operation cycle of the dust collector.

I know about the Festool blue tooth option but already pushed the club budget with the CT26 purchase.

I can trigger the CT26 Auto On with a switched 20 watt incandescent light bulb, but can not do so with a switched 8.5 watt LED bulb.

I was hoping to learn what the lowest wattage would trigger the CT26 Auto On but now am wondering if the nature of the LED and it's internal current driver circuit appears different than the simple resistance provided by the incandescent bulb.

The incandescent bulbs are getting hard to find, so I am thinking of trying a 20 watt LED panel but don't have one available at the moment.

I hope this makes sense, and welcome other suggestions etc.

Thank you.
 
Hi, I=P/E 20/110=.19 8.5/110=.07 ,dont know if the led driver affects the current switch or not try a higher wattage led? good luck
 
The only official verbiage in the supplemental is (emphasis mine): "NOTE: Tools with very low power consumption may not draw enough power from the tool receptacle to be detected by the vacuum. For variable speed tools, it may be necessary to turn the speed up to trigger the vacuum, and then back down for normal operation."

If you have a dimmer, you might not have to worry about blinding yourself with the attached light?

That said, a lamp plus bulb gets you into the "easy $20 remote" territory, which is much cheaper than the BT module and remote.
 
Well, there is the air module for the CT 26... which triggers the CT based on detected flow in the compressed airhose.
 
    The air  module is about three times the price of the BT module. I believe the OP is trying to save some money.

  [member=70323]Woody Knotsensplintahs[/member]

    For cost and convenience I suggest getting a remote control outlet switch. There are plenty of them available for $20 or less. I just did a search and found several  (even a 15a outdoor rate for $13.00). I have some and the ones I have work very well. You plug the outlet / receptacle / receiving unit into any wall outlet. And plug the CT into that. Then there is an actual remote control to turn it on and off.

Seth
 
Or the OP could just run the CT26 constantly whilst he’s working. The onboard socket is still powered even when the extractor’s in ‘manual’ mode.
 
SRSemenza said:
    The air  module is about three times the price of the BT module. I believe the OP is trying to save some money.

  [member=70323]Woody Knotsensplintahs[/member]

    For cost and convenience I suggest getting a remote control outlet switch. There are plenty of them available for $20 or less. I just did a search and found several  (even a 15a outdoor rate for $13.00). I have some and the ones I have work very well. You plug the outlet / receptacle / receiving unit into any wall outlet. And plug the CT into that. Then there is an actual remote control to turn it on and off.

Seth

I use a couple different kinds but this one is the best of the bunch.
 
Woody Knotsensplintahs said:
Thanks for contributing some info.

FWIW, I am trying to set up a inexpensive remote switch for the CT26 at a club house installation where we are using air scribes rather than electric power tools. The air power comes from a compressor/tank combo that is remotely located. Furthermore, the duty cycle of the air compressor does not necessarily coincide with the desired operation cycle of the dust collector.

I know about the Festool blue tooth option but already pushed the club budget with the CT26 purchase.

I can trigger the CT26 Auto On with a switched 20 watt incandescent light bulb, but can not do so with a switched 8.5 watt LED bulb.

I was hoping to learn what the lowest wattage would trigger the CT26 Auto On but now am wondering if the nature of the LED and it's internal current driver circuit appears different than the simple resistance provided by the incandescent bulb.

The incandescent bulbs are getting hard to find, so I am thinking of trying a 20 watt LED panel but don't have one available at the moment.

I hope this makes sense, and welcome other suggestions etc.

Thank you.

Have you considered returning the CT26 under the 30day NQA policy ?

I can see no real advantage to a Festool CT from the setup you described.  If you're going to rube goldberg a switching solution and don't need the CT portability/organization features, why spend a premium for a Festool vac ?  Lots of HEPA rated  vacs out there for less money (or easily upgraded with a filter).  Many provide more airwatts and capacity for less money.  Some even have tool triggering.

This sounds like a vanity purchase that has put pressure on a tight budget for no real benefit.
 
I was killing time in the shop today and remembered this question.  I plugged a Kill-a-Watt meter into the tool port of my CT26E and tried a number of low wattage loads, which all happened to be pencil soldering irons.  One with an amperage draw of 197mA would not start the vac, one with a draw of 388mA started it immediately and kept it running.  One with a draw of 322mA started the vac but it then cycled on and off with about a 50% duty cycle.  From this I would guess that around 350mA is the minimum load to run the vac.  My line voltage reads 123V on the Kill-a-Watt.
 
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