How much weight can you hang on studs?
- Thread starter JeremyH.
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I would also add that how they will be attached to the studs matters.
Peter
Peter
Sparktrician
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Think GRK RSS screws. You could hang the front end of a small-block Chevy off them.
kevinculle
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Think about a tall 36" wide kitchen wall cabinet filled with dishes...could easily weight a couple hundred pounds loaded and hangs on 3 studs. Unless these are stadium sized speakers you should have no worries.
Except the wall cabinet was designed to be hung on the wall. The speaker may or may not be designed for that. And many aren't.
The wall cabinet will likely have the weight more evenly distributed than the speaker which will have most of the weight concentrated on or near the front face.
The limiting factor will be the speaker box construction. Better make sure the backs are solid and that they are well connected to the sides. Internal bracing is also a good idea.
The wall cabinet will likely have the weight more evenly distributed than the speaker which will have most of the weight concentrated on or near the front face.
The limiting factor will be the speaker box construction. Better make sure the backs are solid and that they are well connected to the sides. Internal bracing is also a good idea.
Another concern is that the speaker, if it holds a reasonable bass woofer, could end up using the whole wall as an extension. The vibration alone could cause damage as well. Not to mention making the sound quite distorted.
Just something to think about as well.
Just something to think about as well.
Weight depends on what I can get away with to a large factor. These are "different" speakers. What will be connected to the wall will be distributed more like a cabinet, 4 or 6 points.
Think like hanging butcher block that's around 5x4ft. Being specific is worthless because it's universal. I just need an approximate of how much weight say, a grk screw can take in a stud.
Think like hanging butcher block that's around 5x4ft. Being specific is worthless because it's universal. I just need an approximate of how much weight say, a grk screw can take in a stud.
Cheese
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JeremyH. said:
We're here to help but this sounds more like a Ouija board to me.......
Here ya go...look at the website and they will help you conceal your secret.
http://www.grkfasteners.com/tech-data/specs
As an aside, I've listened to Magnepans, Martin Logans and Bowers & Wilkins, but have never listened to a butcher block. But hey, I'm game...
Dane
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You’re not going to hang a set of speakers that are going to break the studs. Proper fasteners, properly spaced, can hold up just about anything you could lift up there. In a ballon framed house, the studs are holding up the entire floor; decks can be fastened into studs from the exterior to bear the half of the weight of the deck...Trick is to use the proper fastener and use
it right.
it right.
Naildrivingman
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All physical specs of wood and hardware aside your weak points are as follows:
1. Speaker box construction (can it rack under its own weight, is it stoutly built enough to withstand point loading?)
2. Method of attachment of speaker to the wall (Is it hung like a typical wall cabinet, is it resting on a ledger...?)
3. Substrate supporting the load
4. Fastener type used
Personally, I would use the GRK family and disregard concerns over #s 3&4. What should be the determinant factor is can the speaker “hang”. You reference a 5’x4’ butcher block. To me, that suggests a large footprint, but small projection from the wall. If this is accurate, then the shear value of fasteners selected is what should drive the bus, because gravity is primarily pulling straight down. If the speaker(s) project from the wall, there are other factors to consider.
The points about sound transmission across and through the wall seem very valid to me, but I’m not a HiFi Guy. (Yes, I’m old...most do not use terms like HiFi anymore) [unsure]
1. Speaker box construction (can it rack under its own weight, is it stoutly built enough to withstand point loading?)
2. Method of attachment of speaker to the wall (Is it hung like a typical wall cabinet, is it resting on a ledger...?)
3. Substrate supporting the load
4. Fastener type used
Personally, I would use the GRK family and disregard concerns over #s 3&4. What should be the determinant factor is can the speaker “hang”. You reference a 5’x4’ butcher block. To me, that suggests a large footprint, but small projection from the wall. If this is accurate, then the shear value of fasteners selected is what should drive the bus, because gravity is primarily pulling straight down. If the speaker(s) project from the wall, there are other factors to consider.
The points about sound transmission across and through the wall seem very valid to me, but I’m not a HiFi Guy. (Yes, I’m old...most do not use terms like HiFi anymore) [unsure]
What kind of issues are there with hanging objects on walls with metal studs?
A recent Fine Homebuilding article discussed the pros and cons of metal framing. A major issue with exterior metal studs is thermal bridging. I do not recall any discussion of wood exterior studs and metal interior studs which would address the thermal bridging problem. I do wonder about any issues homeowners have when hanging heavy objects on walls framed with metal studs.
Are metal studs significantly more difficult to drive screws into? Since the screw is held into the metal stud by only a small area of contact, is there any more chance of failure if the screws are poorly installed?
Just curious.
A recent Fine Homebuilding article discussed the pros and cons of metal framing. A major issue with exterior metal studs is thermal bridging. I do not recall any discussion of wood exterior studs and metal interior studs which would address the thermal bridging problem. I do wonder about any issues homeowners have when hanging heavy objects on walls framed with metal studs.
Are metal studs significantly more difficult to drive screws into? Since the screw is held into the metal stud by only a small area of contact, is there any more chance of failure if the screws are poorly installed?
Just curious.
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There is a greater chance of failure with metal studs. Many moons ago when I worked for a retailer, as we remodeled or built new stores there was a lot of wooden blocking installed in metal stud walls which were constructed of structural metal studs. All the walls designed to hold the tvs were engineered and stamped. Seismic zone walls might as well have been solid wood.
Peter
Peter
Generally metal studs are 22 ga light weight steel. The screw used in these are the fine thread. I built my shed with metal studding and siding, mostly because I could justify buying a Milwaukee bandmill and Kett shears...spent about what I would have on buying a commercially available wooden shed. This also reduced the weight of the shed to make it more easily moved. I would not hang anything of the nature of a TV on this type construction without putting wooden backing in the studding prior to closing up which is done is restroom and any where that weight needs to be attached to steel frame walls.
Cheese
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Here's an earlier thread, which goes into a lot of detail on attaching shelving to metal studs.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/home-...elving-tracks-in-drywall/msg443312/#msg443312
http://festoolownersgroup.com/home-...elving-tracks-in-drywall/msg443312/#msg443312
