How to best fill miter joints on doors

T

Twoodman66

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Feb 27, 2016
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Hi All
Trying my best to match existing kitchen cabinet profile for pantry add on
Doors are mitered with dominos. What  is the best way to fill my black lines??
Pic is door with two coats of kem aqua surfacer already applied.miters looked a lot better prior to applying finish.if we were brushing  finish on I would just flood the joint and let it dry. Any advise is greatly appreciated
Best
Kevin
 

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Why not a white caulk that you can then paint over?

Is there something up with your mitre saw blade that's making the gaps appear at the edges of the mitre rather than in the center?
 
My experience has been it's a losing battle. Especially the older they get.

That joint is just not a stable one , and doesn't deal with seasonal movement very well.  Most big manufactures have some type of wording in their contracts pointing out that seeing this joint through the finish is not a warrantable defect.
 
Use silicon or another highly flexible "caulk". Since it is high up, it might not show and you may not need paint over it. You can try and mask the two pieces to only have the caulk fill the void if you want to be diligent.

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hey Ed
Miter saw workin fine. I believe that my radius is off from passing the pieces through
The table at 6' rather than sizing all my pieces first. I'm concerned about the caulking as this is my first time using kem Aqua and not sure how it will react to the
Caulking. Afraid of cracking. I tried flooding with spray today while  that did help I still have small black lines. Maybe my top coat will fill( kem Aqua plus).? Not sure as it's a thinner viscosity than the SW surfacer

 
Twoodman66 said:
Hey Ed
Miter saw workin fine. I believe that my radius is off from passing the pieces through
The table at 6' rather than sizing all my pieces first. I'm concerned about the caulking as this is my first time using kem Aqua and not sure how it will react to the
Caulking. Afraid of cracking. I tried flooding with spray today while  that did help I still have small black lines. Maybe my top coat will fill( kem Aqua plus).? Not sure as it's a thinner viscosity than the SW surfacer
Click to expand...

This is why I said caulk over top. It appears to be white or maybe even bright white. Quality paintable silicon should be fine.

Cheers. Bryan. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The paintdoc for kemaqua says to prime anything caulked before laying down the finish. Makes sense for adhesion plus it'll protect you from your caulk/filler flashing through.
 
rizzoa13 said:
The paintdoc for kemaqua says to prime anything caulked before laying down the finish. Makes sense for adhesion plus it'll protect you from your caulk/filler flashing through.
Click to expand...
What I'm getting at is that caulk doesn't adhere to bare wood well but what your saying sounds like you'd have to prime twice.
 
Hi
At this point I have two coats of Kem Aqua surfacer.
I was thinking to shoot one coat of finish and then use the caulk.
My thinking is that the caulking will pull easier against the finish as opposed to surfacer
 
Really. Mmm  interesting. I thought they are waxed based(as I melt and blend colors often) and would repel finish. I've always applied after install/finish.
 
Actually use the epoxy. I use it for floors, you can mix the colors and on a door like that its a lifetime repair. I have had crack repairs in floors at 8 year repaired and counting(in a foyer walked on constantly), still looking perfect. Just squeeze it together,  It's a two part. But make sure yours are fresh as if they are too old they are more difficult and not as smooth to work with. This is NOT a floor filler for tons of gaps between boards though, it's for a repair here and there, as your door pics show.

I use these every day. I have a couple of the full kits always on hand and mix them with other brands on the market with perfect results. When I make a repair and mix the colors for a color match it's very difficult for me to find where I made the repair, sometimes I can find the repair at all. This stuff is durable, hard as a rock, can be left as is  or worked and coated,  its up to you and the situation. Sometimes I mix it with saw dust, most times I dont.

Caulk is crap for what you are doping, this is the ticket. Now if I was trimming out a house with poplar, yeah I would caulk the raw wood before priming and painting, but NO Caulk on a  kitchen door miter, that's a mistake. Use this stuff or make your own putty with epoxy, saw dust and tint if needed.
http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=113
 
wptski said:
rizzoa13 said:
The paintdoc for kemaqua says to prime anything caulked before laying down the finish. Makes sense for adhesion plus it'll protect you from your caulk/filler flashing through.
Click to expand...
What I'm getting at is that caulk doesn't adhere to bare wood well but what your saying sounds like you'd have to prime twice.
Click to expand...

I prime, caulk, fill/touch up any "dings", apply second coat of Surfacer.

Priming allows you to do the final once over for anything that may have been missed in prep.

Tom
 
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