How to calibrate Domino 500 to the center of the edge

[Mike35x95x1]

Hi everyone, maybe I am missing something but I am not sure if I can set cutting height of the fence to the middle of the material. It’s never precisely in the middle. [emoji22]

I can set height with the right fence height stop (let’s say 18mm) and I can adjust the fence manually. So far so good but when I want to set the mortise to the middle of the edge of 18mm edge what procedure do you follow to calibrate the cut right in the middle 9mm from the top (as well as 9mm from the bottom)?

Currently I always need to do several testing mortises to find perfect center. Do you have some best practice?

Thanks
Mike

DIYer from Europe (TS55, KS60, DF500, OF1010, FS1400, FS-WA/90, FS-PA-VL)

 

[Roseland]

I don't think it matters if the dominos aren't exactly in the middle as long as you're referencing off the same face when you cut them.

I use a Domiplate which is designed to put the mortices in the middle of either 12mm or 18mm stock, but most ply isn't exactly the advertised thickness.

Andrew

 

[Birdhunter]

I’ve done hundreds of Domino mortises. I try to use the built in height stops just in case I have to go back and do another mortise like all the others in that piece. “About” in the middle is good enough. No need to get exactly in the middle as long as you use the same reference surface. I never count on a piece of wood being exactly the same thickness everywhere even if I mill it. It’s wood, not steel.

 

[Mike35x95x1]

I don't think it matters if the dominos aren't exactly in the middle as long as you're referencing off the same face when you cut them.

I use a Domiplate which is designed to put the mortices in the middle of either 12mm or 18mm stock, but most ply isn't exactly the advertised thickness.

Andrew

I agree with the reference but I like to be precise [emoji56]

Did not know the Domiplate. Interesting approach even though it’s weird to turn Domino upside down. I’ll think of it. Shame they sell only 18mm and 12mm as package as I work mainly with 18mm.

Mike

DIYer from Europe (TS55, KS60, DF500, OF1010, FS1400, FS-WA/90, FS-PA-VL)

 

[ChuckM]

I’ve done hundreds of Domino mortises. I try to use the built in height stops just in case I have to go back and do another mortise like all the others in that piece. Snip.

It is something that I turned to several times before. In 90% of my domino projects, the built-in fence height stop meets my needs.

Another reason I prefer non-dead centered mortises is that if I have the wrong face of the piece oriented in a glue-up, I can tell before it's too late.

 

[sancho57]

Yer over thinking it, were not building steinways

 

[Mike35x95x1]

Yer over thinking it, were not building steinways

Fair point... [emoji38]

DIYer from Europe (TS55, KS60, DF500, OF1010, FS1400, FS-WA/90, FS-PA-VL)

 

[Cheese]

I actually prefer a slight offset so that if the the boards get mixed up, the wrong side up board is immediately noticeable before glue-up.

I originally tried to have the mortices located exactly in the center of the boards but even if you can achieve the center to be within .005", if you accidentally flip the board over you're now off by .010" and may not notice it until it's too late.

 

[tsmi243]

I actually prefer a slight offset so that if the the boards get mixed up, the wrong side up board is immediately noticeable before glue-up.

^^^ Strong agree. 

Also, from past experience with biscuit joiners, I'm in the habit of using the base as a reference whenever possible, rather than the fence. 

 

[Birdhunter]

I never use the base as a reference. If the wood isn’t totally of uniform thickness, the top surfaces won’t line up. I always use the fence referenced off the top surfaces and I use the fence height stops if possible.

 

[ChuckM]

The only consistent and reliable way to use the base as a reference is when you use it upside down with a dominoplate (for certain thicknesses of stock). Even a small dirt on the bench could throw the accuracy off. Another exception is when the base is rested on a board for milling the shelves.

 

[afish]

Since you didn't ask "if" dominos should be centered I will answer your actual question.  Since there are some situations or people that need or want their dominos in the center. I have a very simple method I use and it works great.  See this thread for details.

Centered Dominos

 

[Mike35x95x1]

Since you didnt ask "if" dominos should be centered I will answer your actual question.  Since there are some situations or people that need or want there dominos in the center. I have a very simple method I use and it works great.  See this thread for details.

Centered Dominos

I’ll give it a try. Thank you

DIYer from Europe (TS55, KS60, DF500, OF1010, FS1400, FS-WA/90, FS-PA-VL)

 

[tsmi243]

I never use the base as a reference. If the wood isn’t totally of uniform thickness, the top surfaces wont line up. I always use the fence referenced off the top surfaces and I use the fence height stops if possible.

The bench surface acts as the fence with this method.  So put the good side down.  It works.

 

[Birdhunter]

If the board lays flat on the table surface, using the base instead of the fence works. If there is any bow in the wood, the mortises won’t be correctly aligned.

 

[ChuckM]

If the board lays flat on the table surface, using the base instead of the fence works. If there is any bow in the wood, the mortises won’t be correctly aligned.

However people use their machines is good as long as it works for them, whether using the base to register or using dead-centered mortises only. No argument there. But your point about the bow needs a further remark which is not obvious to many domino joiner users.

When two mating boards, say, one flat and straight and the other with a bow are mortised using the fence for registration (that's, in the way the machine is designed to be used), their mortises don't align either due to the bow. BUT, when the dominoes are inserted into both mortises (if the bow is severe, press or hammer the bow board down), the mating boards will come together flush on the registration/show face. Dominoes aren't necessary at all for edge jointing, but they're great for alignment especially when less-than-perfect boards are joined together.

That won't be the case if the base is used to register the work. If one always works with perfectly milled stock on dead flat bench that is always free of of debris, etc., one will never run into any alignment issues with using the base for registration. Allow me to say that's a big if, having worked with rough lumber mostly and typically 4' to 8' long for well over a decade.

 

[tsmi243]

If either of you guys ever try this in real life, you'll see that the theoretical problems don't really exist in practice.  At least not on 3/4" materials (and for thicker stuff, why wouldn't you plane it first???).  Sweeping the bench clean isn't complicated, and neither is clamping out a bow- just put your left hand on top, and press down.  Make the cut.  It'll be OK. 

For 3/4" goods, the 10mm offset is basically perfect anyway.  Close enough to center that it's just as strong- but offset just enough to let you know you're about to put the piece in backwards. 

Try it.  You'll like it  [smile]

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

just put your left hand on top, and press down.  Make the cut.  It'll be OK. 

Try it.  You'll like it  [smile]

Thanks, but no thanks. I am not that good at using my domino machine one-handed.

No one is trying to convince anyone else to use one method or another. If you like yours, more power to you.

 

[Curlingace]

Agree with the “I don’t think it matters”
However I’m with you, I’d prefer if they where 100% in the middle, but like said as long as referenced off same side, makes no difference. 
I always use tape to mark reference side of parts, long as I see tape, I’m on the correct side.