How to cut 3" x 3" 11 gauge metal tubes

[Rick Herrick]

I decided to work on fitness a few months ago.  I have a lot of Rogue products.  I have a couple of 70" squat rack uprights that I want to cut down to use for some accessories.  These are square tubes and 11 gauge steel. I am a complete noob on anything metal work related.  I would like to just put them on my Kapex, put in the correct blade, and go for it but I don't think its that simple.  Any suggestions or tips?

 

[tjbnwi]

I don't think the metal cutting blade is available for the Kapex. If it is just a few cuts check with a local metal fab shop to see if they'll cut them for you.

In the fittness vain-there is the hack saw option.....

Tom

 

[Peter Kelly]

I'd suggest a wooden mitre box and a Sawzall on slow speed with a steel cutting blade. 11ga is pretty heavy and defenitely not something you'd want to attempt with a Kapex. 

 

[Rick Herrick]

Thanks Tom/Peter.  Thats kind of what I thought.  If I tried it with various DIY options, I probably wouldn't get the cleanest cut.  Will try to find a local shop.  Thanks.

 

[live4ever]

I wouldn’t try that on the Kapex, aluminum of course but not steel….You didn’t specify if you’re willing to buy or find the right tool for the job, but one would be an abrasive/metal chop saw.  They’re not particularly expensive (I think I bought my 14” for around $160 on Amazon).  Loud, and the abrasive cutting throws a lot of sparks, but the result is a foolproof square cut. 

Another option would be a handheld bandsaw.  Corded and cordless options abound.  Fairly quiet, fast, non-violent cut.  The large ones usually can do at least 4x4 and often larger.  Higher chance of getting a non-square cut but good enough for many applications.

Of course if non-perfectly square is tolerable, you could also just use an angle grinder.  But if new to metalwork that might be somewhat intimidating.

I agree with the local shop recommendation if it’s just a few cuts and not something you’re wanting to be able to do in the future.   

 

[Packard]

A Sawzall (reciprocating saw) would be my first choice.

I have a band saw built for this application, and if the machine was broken down to components, then I might use that.  But to cut the assembled equipment, the Sawzall.

Note: My horizontal band saw is a smaller bench top machine from Northern Tool. I bought it years ago on sale for about $200.00.  It is doubtless now a good bit more.  It cuts slow, but makes clean cuts.  No sparks.  And I don’t have to be in attendance while it is cutting.
=532s

I just looked it up.  The horizontal band saw costs $330.00.  There are versions of the Sawzall that are under $100.00.  If I were to buy one now, I would go for the battery powered Milwaukee unit. The 110 volt wire tether is a nuisance in many cases.  The Sawzall is probably of more use in the wood shop. It is particularly adept at demolitions.

 

[Peter Kelly]

I've used the mitre box / Sawzall method a lot over the years, works surprisingly well even with solid steel bars. 

 

[Rick Herrick]

The miter box/recip saw is a good option but the only one I have now is part of the Ryobi 18v ecosystem.  Not sure it would have the oomph to get the job done.  I found a metal guy about 10 miles away that says he can do it for $100 / hour, $25 minimum.  That may be the easiest option.  No plans to get into metal working so buying new tools (other than Festool add-ons) is not really an option. Thanks guys.

 

[Packard]

I almost hate to mention it, but a hand held hack saw would make the cut (and leave you exhausted).

Bosch makes a (pricey) 6” jig saw blade. It should be OK for 3” tubing.  There are far less expensive 4” blades, and those might be long enough to cut 3” tubing.
https://www.grainger.com/product/6YB23?gucid=N:NSaid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1KSUgrrxhAMVLFdHAR2NjgPDEAQYAyABEgKKvPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[guybo]

hi, grinder w/cut-off wheel

 

[Vtshopdog]

If you go sawzall route highly recommend these Diablo carbide blades:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YCV8WLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I used these to cut out some frozen suspension bolts on an auto project last spring.  3/4" thick steel bolt in very awkward position, 4x cuts required and went through them like butter.

 

[Svar]

More options:
Jigsaw. The tubes are 3" and there is no metal blade for jigsaw this long. You'll need to cut the corner with hacksaw, then insert jigsaw into the opening and go around cutting one wall at a time.
Table saw. There are steel cutting blades for it. I've cut 3/4" solid steel plates on a table saw. Obviously use a sturdy sled, clamp your work, wear glasses.
Circular saw. Same as above. preferably use some kind of guide, cut one wall at a time going around the tube.

 

[Packard]

More options:
Jigsaw. The tubes are 3" and there is no metal blade for jigsaw this long. You'll need to cut the corner with hacksaw, then insert jigsaw into the opening and go around cutting one wall at a time.
Table saw. There are steel cutting blades for it. I've cut 3/4" solid steel plates on a table saw. Obviously use a sturdy sled, clamp your work, wear glasses.
Circular saw. Same as above. preferably use some kind of guide, cut one wall at a time going around the tube.

Apparently, Bosch makes a 5-1/4” metal blade.  Amazon sells them.

BOSCH T321AF3 3-Piece 5-1/4 In. 21 TPI Speed for Metal T-Shank Jig Saw Blades, White

 

[Cheese]

If you own a RA grinder then just mount a .040" thick cut-off blade on it and go forth...that'd be the least expensive option by far. Once the wheel pierces one of the tubing walls it becomes self-guiding so make sure the wheel is square and perpendicular.

After that a Sawzall...every person needs a Sawzall...you'll wonder how you ever got along without one.  [smile]  However, cutting square and perpendicular can be a problem because of the wide kerf, blade flex and the tool is hand held.

Then a portable bandsaw, it produces a non-violent cut and if properly set-up, produces a straighter, more perpendicular cut than a hand held Sawzall.

Finally a Milwaukee or Evolution 14" cold saw with a carbide tooth blade. Low RPM...think 1500, they're the most accurate and repeatable of the lot. Individual tubing lengths can be easily kept in the ± .030" range.  Angle cuts are also a breeze.

 

[rmwarren]

If you own a RA grinder then just mount a .040" thick cut-off blade on it and go forth...that'd be the least expensive option by far. Once the wheel pierces one of the tubing walls it becomes self-guiding so make sure the wheel is square and perpendicular.

After that

a Sawzall...every person needs a Sawzall...you'll wonder how you ever got along without one.  [smile]  However, cutting square and perpendicular can be a problem because of the wide kerf, blade flex and the tool is hand held.

Then a portable bandsaw, it produces a non-violent cut and if properly set-up, produces a straighter, more perpendicular cut than a hand held Sawzall.

Finally a Milwaukee or Evolution 14" cold saw with a carbide tooth blade. Low RPM...think 1500, they're the most accurate and repeatable of the lot. Individual tubing lengths can be easily kept in the ± .030" range.  Angle cuts are also a breeze.

+1 On Cheese's suggestions. If you don't have an angle grinder or portaband this is a terrific opportunity to justify the purchase...

At the risk of being boo'ed off the forum, Harbor Freight has upped their power tool game and at the same time their portable bandsaws are reasonable, ~$130.
https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-brushless-cordless-deep-cut-band-saw-tool-only-58474.html

The only downside to a grinder is the mess. Steel grinding grit gets everywhere.

RMW

 

[rvieceli]

Rick you’ve gotten some good advice and workable solutions. My strong suggestion is have the guy cut them. I’d be surprised if it was significantly more than the minimum charge.

Plus since you aren’t interested in working with metal on a frequent basis, developing a relationship with a local fabricator is a big plus. Most metal folks don’t do wood and vice versa. You may want to have some legs fabricated for a table or some brackets etc. Now you’ll know someone.

They may have folks come in for legs and are interested in having a slab table top made. Now they’ll know that you might be able to do that.

Need a custom machine table or a rack they can handle it.

Ron

 

[mcfal12]

Unless you have a plasma cutter and steady hand, Handheld Bandsaw all the way for this application. Sawzall and grinder will be tough to get a clean 90 degree cut. The downside to the handheld bandsaw is maximum depth. Mobley the top end are going to support a 3” depth of cut. Having a bandsaw is useful though and if you have other uses for it will pay for itself in short time.

 

[rst]

Probably not applicable in this person’s case,  but I recently ought Makita’s 18v LXT rear handle saw because the deal from Toolnut was amazing.  A video taken at the Diablo, World of Concrete, showed that saw using the Diablo demolition blade cutting through 18” of 1/2” steel.  I’ve been cutting scrap aluminum entry doors with 3/8” steel connecting rods, cuts right through, no fuss,  no bother.

 

[waho6o9]

View attachment 1 Sorry about the blurry Dewalt metal blade pic for skill saws, it's about 4 dollars at the Big Box stores

I'd clamp all 4 pieces together and gang rip them with a skilsaw and a metal cutting blade. A fence would be useful.

Go slow, work outside and wear goggles.

Easy peasy

 

[Rick Herrick]

Pretty sure I will go with outsourcing but the thought of putting a metal blade in a circular saw is interesting.  I have a 30 year old Makita saw I haven't used in many years.  Might be worth seeing if its up to the job.