How to cut 8" openings in already installed 1/2" solid surface

[RonMiller]

I finished a cabinet and solid surface countertop installation in a kitchen and 6 bathrooms at a local company and one of their employees went to the designer with an idea. She asked if they could have waste can holes cut in the (1/2" solid surface) tops in the bathrooms where there was under-counter space. Then instead of the trash cans taking up space and trash ending up on the floor, they'd be partially hidden and probably cleaner.

The company who made the tops is too busy to do this, expensive, and so-so on service. So they're asking me if I would do it.

What would you suggest as the best way to get the four (approx.) 8" holes cut and the edges rounded over.

I own lots of Festools but no routers yet.

 

[DKurzweil]

You could use any jigsaw with a circle cutting guide to get the size cut out.  Once the hole is cut you can sand the surface smooth and refine the shape.  

You say you don't own a festool router, but do you own or have access to any router?  Once the whole is cut you can use a quarter round bit (for 1/2" solid surface a 3/16 or 1/4 inch quarter round should look nice).

Hope this helps,

Daniel

 

[spikfot]

Jigsaw on SS wouldn't be my first choice, you could cut out a template in 1/2mdf minus 2x the cutter size or a guide bush/ bearing config. Screw down said cookie tight in a pre drilled center hole.
Use a downward spiral cutter and rout away......

 

[tjbnwi]

My first choice would be a router with a template and guide bushing. Make the plywood temple with a router and trammel over size to compensate for the busing and bit. Place the template with 2 sided tape. Place a board with 2 sided tape across where the opening will be on the bottom of the top, it needs to bride the opening so the slug does not break lose and jamb the bit.

Seeing as you do not have a router, grit edge hole saw;

http://www.customholesaw.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=5&chapter=1&zenid=0180c6239b111030f6cb6c18845b362f

If you do not have a router to round over the edges use a counter trash grommet;

http://www.mockett.com/furniture-hardware/wire-cable-management/trash-managers

I just read Williams response, his is for an outside cut, mine would be for an inside cut. My template would be about 12" square with the 8+" hole in the center.

Seeing as the tops are installed, make certian you place the holes in a location that allows you to swing what ever tools you are using. Could be frustrating to find out you can't finish an operation/cut.

Tom

 

[mastercabman]

What kind of solid surface are we talking about?

 

[JeromeM]

I finished a cabinet and solid surface countertop installation in a kitchen and 6 bathrooms at a local company and one of their employees went to the designer with an idea. She asked if they could have waste can holes cut in the (1/2" solid surface) tops in the bathrooms where there was under-counter space. Then instead of the trash cans taking up space and trash ending up on the floor, they'd be partially hidden and probably cleaner.

The company who made the tops is too busy to do this, expensive, and so-so on service. So they're asking me if I would do it.

What would you suggest as the best way to get the four (approx.) 8" holes cut and the edges rounded over.

I own lots of Festools but no routers yet.

Price the job to include an OF1400 [wink]. Of course as it's an after thought it needs a separate quote and contract. You need more toys and they need a great job.

 

[Alan m]

i presume by 8 inch hole you mean a circular hole. id go with a mdf(or whatever) tempate and a spiral bit. definetly get a festool router or youl be distroyed with the crap from that stuff. sounds like the perfect push you need to get one.
if the hole is square id go for the mfs system and the router

 

[Chris Hughes]

As a fabricator, I would cut a template that is 1/4'' bigger that the finish hole size.  I would use a piece of high quality ply that I had laying around if I was going to make multiple cuts.  Nothing sucks as much as making the same jig more than twice.  the next thing I would do is painters tape the down side of the new jig so that I could use hot glue instead of double sided tape.  The painters tape will hold more than adequately on the jig and the hot glue will hold fast on the solid surface.

As for cutting a hole, I would prefer to use a router over a jigsaw for any cut but whatever tool you chuck up for the first pass do yourself a favor and make the final pass with a double fluted bit, cleanup will be much easier.  If you go with the router for the first and second pass I would use a rub collar with the initial setup with a 1/4" offset, an up spiral 1/4" bit would be great.  For the finish, a wider diameter double flute is probably the best choice.

To remove the jig I would use a painters tool to pop the template free.  The tape should give way first allowing the rest of the tape to be removed from the jig.  Once the solid surface is free of the tape just pour a little alcohol on the hot glue, give it a few seconds and the glue will release.

It is really that easy.  While a Festool is not absolutely necessary, the cleanup much easier with the dust control.  An offset base is also an option that will help a lot. 

 

[Stone Message]

Dear Ron

I know that you do not have any Festool routers yet but look at this task as an opportunity...

Like many of the contributors have said, using a router is the way to go and my choice would be the amazing OF 2200. I have recently used mine for cutting holes through a solid Iroko counter top and it all came up as clean as a whistle. The basic machine comes with a 30mm guide bush and so all you will need to get as an extra would be a spiral cutter and a rounding over cutter. These will not be cheap but they will last if you get good quality ones at the outset.

Making a template is easy enough but remember that any slight imperfection will show in the finished hole so take your time. I could not find a photograph that exactly matches your task but I have attached one of a small template for a baby carriage clock.

There must be loads of FOGgers who would die to have an excuse to buy an OF 2200 - so do it, you will never look back.

Peter

 

[Sparktrician]

I concur with other posters, Ron.  This is the perfect opportunity to spring for an OF2200 and the accessory kit.  I'd suggest, too, that the RO90 with Platin does a marvelous job in buffing out solid surface materials.  I've not worked with solid surface materials until recently and had a cutout from the kitchen counter to play with.  The previous owners had used the scrap as a cutting block, so it was covered with dings, cuts and nicks.  After a round of Granat 120 - 320, a good go with Platin 500 - 4000 brought it to a near-mirror finish,  and a test polishing with PlastX on a felt pad on my RO125 did it right.  Good luck. 

[smile]

 

[stairman]

if there is enough room for a waste basket under the counters,  then there is enough room  to do this with the cabinet front, rather than the counter TOP    you will create more "demand" for your services by modifying the cabinet front to include the waste receptacle "hole"  and installing a waste can on a sliding mechanism.  -just a thought...

all in all,  like anything else,  this all depends on what your customer is willing to spend,  what you need to make and several other factors...  if they are in a paradigm whereas they are assuming someone can walk through with a magic wand and "will"  cleanly cut, finished 8" diameter holes in the corian...  you'll need to explain reality to them.  -I doubt they are intending to spend $1500-$2000  on 6 holes being cut in the bathroom counter tops...  am I right?  so buying a new OF2200 for this might be pushing it a bit,  unless you really REALY want to buy one and are thinking of this as a financial assist...

can you cut a perfect circle with the tools you own?
I would start with a template.    MDF will be fine, since you only need to cut 6 finished holes,  Veneer core plywood is OK,  but I would use MDF  or PVC for this.

cut a 8" hole in the center of a 20-24" square  drop of your material of choice.  dress any anomalies with bondo,  and fair out,  so you have a good template to work from,,  then using a pattern bit,  cut a 2nd template,  and KEEP the original,  incase you damage the working template...
mark out all your holes,  and cutout the waste first, leaving only about 1/8" from the line,  then cut the rest out with a router
a solid surface specific bit is what you'll need,  and a PATTERN bit,  or a "Top Bearing Copy Bit"  is what you're going to use for this exercise.

WEAR A RESPIRATOR!  the dust that comes off that stuff is pretty nasty!

but...  if you can convince them to do this without cutting the surface,  you can likely make more work for yourself,  provide a better solution,  and  everyone will be happier.   
Modify cabinet front......
fabricate and install waste receptacle
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=under+counter+waste+can&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3063091826945805181&sa=X&ei=c0j_TpmkHI-5twfy16n1Cg&ved=0CI8BEPMCMAE

 

[Stone Message]

Dear Ron

You poor chap - you are getting so much advice from us all - what will you do?

I have just realised that your holes are to be circular. There is no need for a template as you can get perfect holes by another method...

I have attached 2 photographs which should help. When you get your OF2200 router (you must) make up some sort of trammel that will allow you to rotate the router to cut a perfect circle.

In my example I drilled a 6mm hole in the centre of my work piece where the hole was to go. Into this I inserted a 6mm brass dowel which then fitted into the base of my makeshift trammel. I then did a plunge halfway through my work piece (your worktop). I then used a trimming cutter with a top mounted ball bearing to cut through the rest of the way following my already perfect circle.

Once you have your perfect circular hole you can use another ball bearing rounding over cutter to give the final finish.

I do not know the exact material that you are using but Festool provide cutters for almost everything cuttable.

I hope that this helps.

Peter

 

[RonMiller]

Wow, guys. Thanks for the many excellent responses.

A few clarifications - I do have routers - a large PC, a smaller Triton, (and I forgot about my Festool 700 since I only use it for trimming laminate and edge banding). Also, none of these trash cans will be in a cabinet, all in spaces between cabinets so I can't do the bait and switch thing  Mr. Stairman.  ;D

I LOVE Peter idea about the 2200 but that may be a little too much for my wallet - Mr. Marino has been taking numerous pieces of change out of it for several months now. But it may still be possible and I'm going to try that route.

If not one of the template approaches is probably best. I do have some extra material they sent with this install that I can practice on, but mostly I just need on Monday to sit down and figure out which of these many approaches are practical in my situation.

Most responses are welcome and I'll try and update this on Monday late or Tuesday.

Thanks again and happy new year Foggers!