How to do a thin coat of epoxy

[jaguar36]

I've been working on a bartop for a friend recently.  Its a really nice oak slab that I've put some epoxy inlays of airplanes into.  I was really happy with how it was turning out until last night.  I went to put the final flood coat of epoxy on, layed it out real nice and it was looking fantastic.  I get up in the morning and go down to check it out and find that some asshole spider decided to land right in the middle of it and is no stuck like a glue trap. 
So now I've got this fantastic top with an awesome finish on it... with 8 little leg bits in the middle.  I sanded them out and tried to put a thin coat of epoxy on using a foam roller, which worked well except the roller tiny little bits of foam in the finish.  Tried a second time with a Purdy Woven Mohair roller, but that was even worse, leaving little fibers in the finish. 

Anyone have any brilliant ideas on a way to put a very thin coat down?  Just needs to cover up the sanding marks.  I've Platin sandpaper up to 4000 grit, so my other option is to sand it up to that and then maybe use some polishing compound to buff it up. 

 

[luvmytoolz]

I would simply use a scraper or plastic card to move it around as needed. So long as the unit is level the epoxy will self level evenly.

A very low viscosity epoxy would be best as it will thin out nicely.

 

[jaguar36]

I would simply use a scraper or plastic card to move it around as needed. So long as the unit is level the epoxy will self level evenly.

A very low viscosity epoxy would be best as it will thin out nicely.

That's what I used for the flood coat, unfortunately it takes a fairly thick layer to self level.  When I've tried to do that with a thin coat it doesn't self level sufficiently.  I'd rather not make the coating that much thicker, nor do I really want to use that amount of epoxy again.

 

[woodferret]

Foam brush.

Tips from a painting supplier I use - for the UV top coat epoxy they have.  You can also use the card applicator for the seal coat.

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Step 1 - The Seal Coat
The seal coat is brushed on in a thin layer, sealing any pores in the surface and preventing air bubbles from forming in the following flood coat(s). (This step is necessary only when using porous materials.)

Step 2 - The Flood Coat
The flood coat will flow and self-level. Foam brushes or squeegees can be used to help spread UVPoxy. Apply in 1/8" (3 mm) layers, as many as desired. (1-3 coats is average for most table or bar coatings).

 

[jaguar36]

Step 2 - The Flood Coat
The flood coat will flow and self-level. Foam brushes or squeegees can be used to help spread UVPoxy. Apply in 1/8" (3 mm) layers, as many as desired. (1-3 coats is average for most table or bar coatings).

Right, but the goal is to not do another 1/8th thick coat. 

 

[woodferret]

Ah gotcha.  Off label, you could try warming up the resin component separately in a water bath before mixing and applying.  That should buy you a tiny bit of maneuvering room in viscosity and laying down a thinner layer.  You might also need to switch to a tiny notched towel instead of foam.

From Ecopoxy (I know you might be using another product) where they showed the difference in temperature and viscosity.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

If it's thick enough for you now and the legs are sanded out, why not just polish it back up?
Most compounds can remove scratches as coarse as 1200 grit, so once you get above 2000, it's pretty easy.

 

[jaguar36]

I ended up polishing it out.  Not super happy with the results but it is what it is.  Took it up to 4000 Platin, then tried some polishing compound.  Still noticeably duller then the un-molested area.  If you look in a couple spots at just the right angle you can see a couple scratches from one of the coarser grits that I missed too.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

How "old" is the epoxy? Are you sure it is 100% cured. The secret to polishing is hardness. You can't polish something that is too soft, it just won't "take it".