how to efficiently rip a bunch of strips with a track saw

[hucks]

just what are the two bronze coloured screws for on the parallel guides & how do they affect the set up of them.... ie when theyre tight or loose.....will it affect accuracy?...... re metric / imperial........... i was brought up ( in england ) on imperial, then we changed to metric. Trust me........ imperial is utterly bonkers. 31/64 + 3/8 - 7/32 + 1/2 - 5/16 =  a mistake in the workshop and some wasted time andmaterials = less money made

 

[GhostFist]

or you just divide the numerator by the denominator to convert all fractions to decimal and subtract and add what you like, really not that hard. The answer is 13/16ths

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

FWIW, A year ago I switched to metric...I have a festool tape measure, two other metric tape measures, a mitutoyo square, woodpecker T square, and Poalini ruler ...all in metric.  ( Twice as many imperial tools).
I really enjoy designing everything in metric... I find that, for me, metric is faster and more efficient...my accuracy has improved a little, since switching.  I willl generally go as small as .5mm.  I find that this is small enough...I still try to do as little measuring as possible and rely on feel, where I can.
Today, there are many great ways to measure a rip - festool parallel guides, seneca guides, woodpecker T square amd slap down a guide rail...on and on...whatever works...whatever saves time and gives the most accuracy.  There's been some clever suggestions in this thread.  I encourage everyone to try one project in metric...you may be surprised?

 

[jlm]

worst system is ft-in, an architectural/contractor's favorite that is tedious, but does have some use for looking at larger dimensions.  in my shop, we use inches-decimal inches, which has all the advantages of metric (no fractions), works with US raw materials, which are typically measured in decimal inches, (or major fractions, usually to the 1/16th, which i can deal with).  all my cnc machines, cad drawings, digital calipers, tiger stop, are in inch-decimal inch.  biggest problem is scales and tape measures.  starret makes rules with 1/32-1/64th on one side, 1/50, 1/100 (basically decimal) on the other, but i can't find tape measures like that and my martin saw has 64th's on the stops!#%#@%.

our shop's common smallest measure is the "'thou"  .001" (we are machinists), and we are comfortable expressing tolerances in 'thou, as in: good to five 'thou, or if really being tight, to "tenths" or .0001"

when we scale cad drawings, i prefer 1:5 or 1:10, but that drives architect's crazy, because they need a special fractional scaled ruler which ain't decimal by a long shot.

speaking to the many wacky imperial measures:
look at ferrous vs cupric sheet metal gauges (aluminum sheet is measured in decimal inches), number drill gauge sizes, pipe dimensions (distinguished from "tube" dimensions, threads per inch (40, 32, 18, 13, 8, etc.)

or buy and older british motorcycle and play with whitworth bolts and threads

 

[roblg3]

i hope the guy looking for his answer was able to find it through all this boring bloviating about metric vs. imperial....it only took me 35 minutes to read through.  Thanks to those who posted answers based on the thread topic!  I got some great ideas

 

[Kodi Crescent]

If Festool is not to your liking you're welcome to buy other brands.  [wink]

You can't expect the whole world to adapt to you, sometimes you have to adapt yourself to get the best experience. Even if it takes some effort.

I myself for instance spent years learning an entire foreign language, English, giving me this tremendous benefit of being able to speak to so many people all around the world. Compared to that, learning metric really is a piece of cake.

I don't expect the whole world to adapt to me, just those who are trying to sell products to me in the US. If I was going to the Netherlands to buy something I would expect it to be in metric. If I was selling a tool in the Netherlands I would be a fool to only offer it in inches.

Also it's not about me learning metric, it's about constantly converting between the two because it isn't used around here. Every tool I have is in inches. Most stuff sold here is in inches. It is how things are done here. Give the consumer a choice and see what they choose.

Back on topic of ripping thin strips with a track saw, I was watching a video on using the Festool parallel guide and it seems like the thickness of those parallel guides starts to become an issue with thinner materials. I guess that's why some folks like the Seneca Woodworking style that lays flat with the guide rail, but those won't be much help cutting thin strips though.

Leave the old ways behind.  The metric system is way easier. 

 

[Paul G]

With all due respect, can all future posts here be about the actual topic of cutting thin strips with a track saw?

 

[Slartibartfass]

Just to add some flavor to the imperial vs metric discussion. I grew up in Germany and lived the metric system for 30 years and after moving to the US a long time ago I am now so used to the imperial system that I even count everything in 6's/12's and multiple thereof.....

 

[jacko9]

With all due respect, can all future posts here be about the actual topic of cutting thin strips with a track saw?

Wow, and I haven't seen a single response that say's use a table saw!

Jack

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

With all due respect, can all future posts here be about the actual topic of cutting thin strips with a track saw?

Wow, and I haven't seen a single response that say's use a table saw!

Jack

+1
For very thin strips, the microjig handles work very well.

 

[SittingElf]

For what it's worth, I cut thin strips on my SawStop Table Saw.  I have an Incra fence system on it and can cut accurate, super thin strips.

For veneer width strips, I cut on my bandsaw to virtually paper thin.

I don't think I'll be cutting very thin strips with my TS55. Easier and possibly more consistent with the two other machines mentioned above.

Cheers,

Frank