How to keep green oak frame looking "new"

bobtskutter

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Jun 5, 2021
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364
Hello FOG,
Someone I work with is having an oak framed porch built.  Please can you recommend something to keep the oak looking "fresh" and not go a dark colour.

Me and the porch are in the UK :)

Many thanks
Bob
 
Hi Bob,

Go-to product for me (and has been for as long as I can remember) is at least 2 coats (3 ideally) of Rustins Satin Yacht Varnish. It's oil-based so takes 8-10 hours per coat to dry, but gives a superb semi-matt finish without imparting any colour to the timber. Most importantly - it also contains a UV filter which stops the timber from greying or silvering. I've got oak projects out there which are over 10 years old and which still look like I installed them yesterday.
https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/our-products/outdoor/yacht-varnish
 
[member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member] thanks for the recommendation (I hoped you'd be able to suggest something).
Much appreciated

Regards
Bob
 
I get similar results from Minwax’s Oil Based Poly, but note that I only have used the interior grade version).  Exterior versions tend to be more elastic (and therefor a softer finish, more susceptible to scratching).

I usually apply a dewaxed shellac product (Seal Coat) for the first coat, but that is not recommended for exterior applications.  I then add three coats of the Oil based Poly.  They recommend that you either recoat within 4 hours or lightly sand between coats after 8 hours. 

I always wait and sand.

I apply 3 coats for vertical (appearance) surfaces and  4 or more coats for horizontal (wear surfaces).  I always use gloss, and then I de-gloss it by applying Butchers wax with 0000 steel wool and significant elbow grease (pressure + repetition).  The wax improves the tactile feel and will prevent other items from bonding to the surface if they are put on the surface before complete curing.

I have a heavy gage clear vinyl desk pad that is permanently bonded to the poly because I allowed it to be put in place before the finish was fully cured.

The manufacturer stated that it is cured after 48 hours, but it continues to hardern significantly over the first 7 - 10 days and then continues to hardened over the next few years. 

For the last 10 years or so, I have been applying poly as a wipe on finish, with a dilution of 50% poly and 50% mineral spirits.  I need about twice as many coats to get the same effect, but there is no brushes to clean, and no drips or runs ever.  It always looks like a sprayed on finish.

I would note that you should make a sample to be sure it has the appearance you want, as removing oil based poly that has cured can be a monumental chore.
 
bobtskutter said:
[member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member] thanks for the recommendation (I hoped you'd be able to suggest something).
Much appreciated

Regards
Bob

No worries Bob. Let the first coat down 15-20% with mineral spirits (turps substitute/white spirit). Green oak's often difficult to penetrate if the moisture content's as high as usual - this helps the first coat sink in and seal the surface. Neat coats after that. Also - it's VERY important that this product is stirred thoroughly both before and during use using a flat stick - shaking the can's not enough. Reason = it contains a particular type of chemical dryer in this product which is metallic, it's heavier than the oil, and it sinks to the bottom of the can during storage. Unless the resulting sludge at the bottom of the can is properly agitated and stirred well into the mix, the product won't dry. At all. Hope all goes well.

Kevin
 
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