How to make it even?

Samtor

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
18
Hi folks,
I've managed to strip off the paint off my gate using the RO90.
However, as you can see in the second picture, it is very blotchy.
I couldn't get the wood to have a consistent tone.
Having taken a very long time to strip the paint, I no longer want to paint nor varnish.
Will staining the wood make the tone consistent?
The wood species is 'chengal' http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neobalanocarpus
Thanks for your help.

Before
(The 3rd, 4th and 5th have been sanded but still appear blotchy)
gate%201_zpsh89t0b04.jpg


After
(All the wood have been sanded)
Gate%202_zpssyvz9rcp.jpg
 
The colour difference is wood colouration due to weathering. If you want to get a more even colour you'll have to sand more, until the discoloured layer is completely gone. Rubin 2 would be my prefered choice of sandpaper for this.

When you stain it the colour difference will become less but will still be visible.
 
Thanks Alex,
Yes I thought sanding deeper would solve the problem so I used granat 40. The outcome is strange as each piece or the piece itself produces different tones. Sometimes raw fibres are exposed, sometimes it just turns dark. Also, I could hardly remove material even though I use granat 40 and in rotex mode. Do you think letting it sit in the sun for 6 months or more would even things out and make it look natural?
 
I think the weathered look is pretty cool.  I'd throw some clear poly on there and call it a day!
 
Yes and I prefer a somewhat more even tone than it currently is.
I have no experience with poly and I am concerned that it will flake off like paint and take a very long time to strip. I might put some on the horizontal surfaces just to keep off the rain.
Leaving it as is without any coating, I'm not sure what are the consequences. Anyone knows?
It does give me an excuse to use the RO90 once a year to remove any mold or mildew or even change the tone.
 
if you decide to stain it,water pop it first(wet it all over then allow to dry),it will open up the grain and allow the stain to penetrate more evenly
 
After you water pop and stain, do you lightly sand to bring the grain down before you clear coat?

Floorman70 said:
if you decide to stain it,water pop it first(wet it all over then allow to dry),it will open up the grain and allow the stain to penetrate more evenly
 
My first job out of high school,1971, was in a custom kitchen factory...Wood Mode kitchens.  Every thing was hand stained and we wet down every thing except pine (which blotches) to raise the grain.  After staining and drying sanding sealer was applied and then sanded with 220, sealed again, then sanded with 320 before the final finish coat which was water wet sanded with 400, then oil sanded with 600, then fine steel wool, had Johnsons paste applied and buffed with fine conditioning pads and finally with wool.  Granted this was a lacquer based finish which is really tough, but I use the same process today with water based except the steel wool.  I use fine conditioning pads.
 
At what point does it become a better solution to just replace the wood?  You're trading off the cost of new materials against labor to fix the old.  Given the pretty plain aspect of that piece I'd have leaned toward replacing it.\

How's it turning out?
 
Some good points.
Do the boards come off?

I personally like the used wood look.

If the boards are not flat then the finish will be blotchy though until they are flat, and then you have to take off additional material until they are consistent.
Is it possible to run a hand plane down the boards?

I also find it easier to finish boards when they are off a gate and flat on a table.
 
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