How to quickly square up FS2 Track

cutit3times

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Aug 21, 2012
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Well, I am proud to announce that I have finally taken the Festool plunge and purchased a TS 55 along with a few tracks and a set of MFT's (as well as  few other items I keep telling my wife that I absolutely needed  [wink]).  Really, now that I've had a chance to use a few of these items I don't why I didn't do it sooner. 

Anyways, one thing I'm kind of curious about is if anyone has some suggestions on how to quickly square up my track to my work piece (sheet goods in this case).  I'll be ripping a bunch of strips any where from 4" to 8", the only problem is that I hate using the face of my last cut to ensure that I'm square before I rip the next strip (i.e. measure from the face of the cut to my track on both sides).  I'd prefer to reference the factory side of the plywood which hasn't been cut for squaring.  Yes I know I can just do it the old fashion way with a builders square or T but I was just wondering if there's an easier and quicker way to go about this.  I thought someone might have a way to jig up the track so it sets up like a t-square of sorts or a suggestion on how to utilize the fence on the MFT for this.  I know Festool has angle gauge for the tracks but it seems pretty small (judging from the pictures) for this but is there anything I could do?  Also, if anyone has any feed back on that previously mentioned angle gauge please let me know.
 
First,   [welcome] to the FOG and to the world of Festool!  You have jumped in with both feet.  

You mentioned getting an MFT and that will be good for making squaring cuts, but the accessory that is designed for making parallel rips of consistent sizes is the Parallel Guide Set and the Extensions.  Once you go thru the calibration sequence they produce consistent width strips that you then square up the ends on the MFT.  They do however reference off of the cut edge.  Some here like them but then some feel that they take too long to set up.

The basic sequence for their use is to rip a clean edge on your plywood to get rid of damage, etc.  Then install the guides and set width of cut based on the scales.  If the width of the rip is less than the width of the rail, then you would use the extensions.

Here are some videos all about the Parallel Guides.

Roger's Part 1

Roger's Part 2

Roger's Part 3

If you are looking to then make end ends square, then you would use your MFT for those cuts. 

Here is something that I came up with that might also give you an idea.



Peter

 
[welcome] Friend.  The vids Peter entered are good.  There are others who have excellent vids on making use of MFT's for making parallel cuts as well as square cuts.  I don't have much time right now as I am torturing myself thru a hot cup-o-java and have an emergency job i have to check out immediately. Others will chime in long before i get back later today.

I do have a couple of quick suggestions.
1 GET A GOOD PAIR OF SHOES WITH NON-SKID SOLES OR HOB NAILED SOLES.  You have just stepped onto a veryyyy slippery incline.  If not sure what I mean, you soon will.

2  I would not waste money on that angle guide.  Many have played with it and I have yet to come across any who are totaly satisfied with it.  I keep mine displayed in my shop so i can observe.  It is a reminder for me to do just what you are doing before making my next mistook.  I check here on the FOG, just as you are doing, to find out all i can about what others have found.  there is a ton of experience here and most of the experience is of great value.

gotta run.
Tinker

 
Welcome Cutit3times!

  What I have been doing to square up my sheet goods is the following.

1. Cut off 5mm from the longest edge of the sheet.  To give myself a clean edge. 
2. Use the Parallel guides, referencing off my fresh cut.  At this time I am not worried about squaring up my pieces.
3. Take my work piece over to the MFT/3 and cut off about 5mm from one side.  Rotate/flip  the piece keeping the same edge
    against the fence thru this process.  Measure/mark the length I need.  Set my stop for repeated cuts. 

I do own the angle guide.  And you didn't mention owning the Parallel guides. So I may suggest going the route I did before I owned the Parallel guides.
The old way I did it was.

1. Cut off 5mm from the 4ft. end of the sheet goods.
2. Lay the rails down close to my cut mark, install the angle unit on one end and a carpenters square at the other end.  NOT A GREAT WAY!!
    I found this to be the worst way for me to break down the sheet goods.  Took to long!  After cutting up 3 sheets of plywood, I stopped
  went to Woodcraft and bought the Parallel guides.

I do use the angle guide.  For cuts that can be used with my 1400 rail.  It is solid.  I use my Woodpecker 1281 square to square up the
angle guide.  And when I use the angle guide its only for a couple cuts.  The repeat cuts are what the Parallel guides are for.

If you have gone this far in investing into Festool.  Why not check out the Parallel guides?  I think you will find that they make life a little easier.
Can they take a while to set up and get use to?  Sure.  But once you get them dialed in and use them, you get used to them.

Hope this helps.

Eric
 
You may want to take advantage of a pair of bench dogs together with a pair of Parf dogs. There is a video on this...



Peter
 
Tinker said:
I do have a couple of quick suggestions.
1 GET A GOOD PAIR OF SHOES WITH NON-SKID SOLES OR HOB NAILED SOLES.  You have just stepped onto a veryyyy slippery incline.  If not sure what I mean, you soon will.

If you're referring to the chain of Festool purchases that typically follows your first Festool purchase then it's all ready too late  [doh].  I'm all ready half way down the hill in full tumble mode.  I started with the tracks and saw, then of course I "needed" those MFT tables, then there was the "oh, that Rotex sander would be really nice" moment, and I then topped it all off with a "I think I really need that Kapex mitre saw".  Oh, and I all most forgot about the shop vac.  I won't even get into the accessory purchases simply out of shame.  I'm starting to think there should be a FA (Festool Anonymous) group.

I have to say though, the Kapex, wow!  I love that saw and I would have to say it's the one single purchase that I am the most happy with.  I think my old compound miter saw had grand ambitions of being a dust collector when it grew up because for years collecting dust is pretty much all it did around my shop.  I've used the Kapex more times in the last week then I used my old mitre in the last three years.  It's deadly accurate, easy to set up (angles and such) and the dust collection is pretty darn good compared to any other saw I've used before and the thing was dead on accurate right out of the box, you gotta love that.

I will definitely invest in the parallel guides, in fact I've all ready ordered them.  Only problem is that I have a two week wait ahead of me before they come in  [unsure].  But in the mean time there's a whole lotta wood that needs cuttin.  I'm building some torsion boxes at the moment hence why I need to cut so many strips.  I can get by for the time being just doing it the old fashion way (breaking the panels down and then using the table saw) but I just thought I'd check and see if there was a quick way to utilize the tracks for the same purpose.  I guess there is; use the parallel guides but I don't have those atm.

Peter, thanks for posting the Parf Dog vid.  Those would definitely be handy, do you have a link to where you can purchase those?  It might have been in the vid but I might have missed it due in part to my short attention span.

Oh, and thanks all for the warm welcome  [big grin]
 
The link is...

http://www.intelligentworkshop.co.uk/

They are a UK company and ship worldwide - I understand that there have been rather a lot crossing the Atlantic. I have no financial interest in Intelligent Workshop or, strange as it may seem, the Parf Dogs. I did the design (gave it to IW and offered it free to Qwas), tested the prototype and made the video. I am quite happy if they are made elsewhere but hope that the name 'Parf Dog' is retained so that we all know what we are talking about.

Good luck.

Peter
 
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