How to route a 3" round table top?

[Intex]

What bit would you use on a Festool router to cut a perfect 38" Dia circle on 3" oak stock? I was thinking of using a Tremel?, and routhing down about halfway, then turning it over and going down the balance of the 3" .

What type of bit would you use? Straight bit or UpCut bit? Also, when using a trammel, will you be left with a hole in the center where the pivot point is.

 

[waho6o9]

View attachment 1
https://microfence.com/product/vacuum-center-assembly-2/

MicroFence is expensive but worth it for fabricating quality work.

I'd trust my betters on this site for your other concerns. It'd be neat to see the the project when you're done.

 

[cpw]

What bit would you use on a Festool router to cut a perfect 38" Dia circle on 3" oak stock? I was thinking of using a Tremel?, and routhing down about halfway, then turning it over and going down the balance of the 3" .

What type of bit would you use? Straight bit or UpCut bit? Also, when using a trammel, will you be left with a hole in the center where the pivot point is.

I would not flip it over and try to go from both sides, but instead consider using a pattern bit to follow the already laid out side.  I would be less worried about a slight offset that way.

Disclaimer: I've never made a round table top, and my pattern routing in this style has been limited to about 2" thick.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I just did this though my table wasn't 3'' thick but a bit less than 2. I did exactly what cpw said, trammel with straight bit from above, flip the table over and use a pattern bit with a bearing on the end. 

The microfence vacuum looks great, and worth it if you're in a production environment where you do this often. But as Freddie said, I'm just a poor guy, and I used double sided tape to fix mine. No holes needed.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Alex posted what I was going to.

I’d use tape on top of the pivot anchor too to be sure (visually) that the anchor doesn’t move.

You might want to use a downcut spiral bit for the first pass to preserve the shoulder but if the table edge will be rounded over or chamfered later there’s no need.

 

[zapdafish]

do you have access to a bandsaw? or maybe jigsaw?

 

[Intex]

I have a Bosch jigsaw, but I dont think it will cut 3" deep, and no bandsaw, so I wont be able to cut a rough circle out, unless there is a 3" jig saw blade that will cut thru white oak.

I think Ill use a downward spiral bit, but dont think it will reach 3", so I will have to then use a long straigh cutter with pattern bearing

 

[cpw]

I have a Bosch jigsaw, but I dont think it will cut 3" deep, and no bandsaw, so I wont be able to cut a rough circle out, unless there is a 3" jig saw blade that will cut thru white oak.

I think Ill use a downward spiral bit, but dont think it will reach 3", so I will have to then use a long straigh cutter with pattern bearing

I would expect you should be able to rough cut the blank with your jig saw and a trammel or even following the line by hand, it just won't give a perfect edge.  In my experience, being able to use your router without hogging out as much material will make a big difference in the ease of completing the operation.

 

[Svar]

I have a Bosch jigsaw, but I dont think it will cut 3" deep, and no bandsaw, so I wont be able to cut a rough circle out, unless there is a 3" jig saw blade that will cut thru white oak.

I suggest Bosch 6" Speed for wood blade . It'll cut through 3" oak.

 

[jeh]

Get the long jigsaw blade and leave yourself 1/4" margin. Make your initial cut then router out the remainder.

 

[Roseland]

I’d use my MFS as a trammel, with the 8mm hole in the bottom.  I’d start with a regular 1/2 inch straight bit, and then switch to one of the 3 inch cut router bits, like this one from Wealdens:https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_1_2__Shank_240.html
It is unlikely any router will have the depth travel to let you do it with one bit.

I have done something similar, although it was a much smaller diameter, and a hole cut rather than a periphery.

Andrew

 

[ben_r_]

Id highly recommend the Micro Fence Circle Jig too. Love mine. BUT for 3" thick material, I think a quick bandsaw jig would be the way Id go about it. Would probably be quicker and you wouldnt have to flip the piece over to complete the cut like you would using a router.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Definitely jig saw or band saw to do the initial cut, then do the precision finish cut with a router.

 

[Intex]

I think Ill try to cut first with jig saw (No Bandsaw available), and then with a Trammel and router, then try to see if a long straight bit with bearing will work for the remainder of the thickness.

I just found out that the oak planks I purchased for the table top, are to wide to fit in my new Dewalt planer edgewise (6.25"-9" wide), and I do not have a JOINTER, so I wonder if I should glue them up without jointing the edges, just using the fresh cut edges from the tracksaw? My only alternative would be to take them to some shop that would joint the edges for me ??

 

[Michael Kellough]

I think Ill try to cut first with jig saw (No Bandsaw available), and then with a Trammel and router, then try to see if a long straight bit with bearing will work for the remainder of the thickness.

I just found out that the oak planks I purchased for the table top, are to wide to fit in my new Dewalt planer edgewise (6.25"-9" wide), and I do not have a JOINTER, so I wonder if I should glue them up without jointing the edges, just using the fresh cut edges from the tracksaw? My only alternative would be to take them to some shop that would joint the edges for me ??

Are you getting clean edges from a Festool track saw at 3” deep?

How are you getting the planks flat without a jointer?

Assuming you do get them flat, run them through the planer and then rip to nearly final size. To joint with the track saw push two planks close together (less than a kerf width on a strong flat surface) and run the track saw down the joint.

If the blade doesn’t go all the way through you might be able to use the router and pattern bit to finish the other side.

Or, take the stuff to a better equipped shop.

 

[Intex]

I have a planer to plane the top and bottom surfaces flat, but with the boards 6-9" wide, the two side edges will not fit edgewise into my planer.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Planer won’t make a thick board flat/straight. It will just make the second side parallel to the first.

 

[TXFIVEO]

FESTOOL jigsaw with the circle jig would work just fine. 

 

[infer]

If square sides are necessary a bandsaw or a P1 would do the job just fine.
A skill saw can also do it but too much trouble.
‘’https://youtu.be/uBlXPKWto2c’’

 

[sancho57]

What TxFiveO said. I marked the circle in pencil , touch cut it with a jig saw free hand get it close. Then use the jumping saw with a trammel.