How to secure systainers to home made roll boards?
- Thread starter andy5405
- Start date
nclemmons
Member
I believe you can buy the green rubber latches for the Festool roller board through contacting customer service for Festool parts. they could be secured to a plywood base with some small TV cable clips and screws.
Those with some small strips of wood would eliminate lateral movement as well as the ability to pick up the stack to go over bumps or steps.
neil
Those with some small strips of wood would eliminate lateral movement as well as the ability to pick up the stack to go over bumps or steps.
neil
Hi,
You could try milling the shape for regular or short Systainer latches into the board edge. Actually I wish the Festool / Tanos boards had regular latched instead of the rubbery things (spangummi ?)
Seth
You could try milling the shape for regular or short Systainer latches into the board edge. Actually I wish the Festool / Tanos boards had regular latched instead of the rubbery things (spangummi ?)
Seth
Wood_Junkie
Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2009
- Messages
- 1,311
I know you posted you were looking for other options, but the rubber bands really are easy to use, and easy to attach/detach with a homemade board.
If you look here, you'll see a homemade roll board I made.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/home-made-sysports/msg103724/#msg103724
Pictures 5 & 6
It's hard to see but what I did was trace out the Systainer footprint, and specifically mark the area where the nubs stick out.
I routed a slight recess on the plywood base (about 3/16" deep) to lower the rubber band’s attachment point (you do need a slight amount of tension).
Then I drilled four small holes (1/8”) through the board in each recess. Two holes very close to eachother, and the pair spaced about 1” apart from the other pair.
I’ve attached a very rough picture showing this. The green dots are the holes I drilled.
[attachthumb=#]
I then used some small zip ties to secure the rubber retainer clips to the plywood, by threading it through the two holes that form a pair.
Since the rubber bands only have to support the weight of the roll board, there isn't much strain or need for a super-robust connection. So the zip ties were totally sufficient.
I used this board for about a year, but didn’t move it around all that much. I made it specifically to fit in that cubby.
Unfortunately, I can’t post more detailed and up close pictures as I wound up purchasing two of the Tanos Systainer “caster cart” (on sale, natch!) and disassembled my homemade roll board.
The rubber bands are $3.00. So it’s a very cheap experiment if you decide to try it. The caster wheels you use are the biggest cost. I had it on HF 360o steel casters… I won’t do that again (they clogged with sawdust).
http://www.systainerworld.com/Tanos_Mobile_Accessories_s/50.htm
Now, an alternative:
One thought I had involved the use of a hinged/pivoting “T hook”. I never find quite the right hardware to use. But here’s an example:
http://teamathleticgroup.com/product/1-swivel-t-hook-tfa110/
Basically, attach it somehow. Then flip it up to secure the Systainers by putting the “T” between the catches. Problem is: Somehow you need tension / friction. And it seemed to me that having enough of a friction fit would eventually wear away at the plastic.
If you look here, you'll see a homemade roll board I made.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/home-made-sysports/msg103724/#msg103724
Pictures 5 & 6
It's hard to see but what I did was trace out the Systainer footprint, and specifically mark the area where the nubs stick out.
I routed a slight recess on the plywood base (about 3/16" deep) to lower the rubber band’s attachment point (you do need a slight amount of tension).
Then I drilled four small holes (1/8”) through the board in each recess. Two holes very close to eachother, and the pair spaced about 1” apart from the other pair.
I’ve attached a very rough picture showing this. The green dots are the holes I drilled.
[attachthumb=#]
I then used some small zip ties to secure the rubber retainer clips to the plywood, by threading it through the two holes that form a pair.
Since the rubber bands only have to support the weight of the roll board, there isn't much strain or need for a super-robust connection. So the zip ties were totally sufficient.
I used this board for about a year, but didn’t move it around all that much. I made it specifically to fit in that cubby.
Unfortunately, I can’t post more detailed and up close pictures as I wound up purchasing two of the Tanos Systainer “caster cart” (on sale, natch!) and disassembled my homemade roll board.
The rubber bands are $3.00. So it’s a very cheap experiment if you decide to try it. The caster wheels you use are the biggest cost. I had it on HF 360o steel casters… I won’t do that again (they clogged with sawdust).
http://www.systainerworld.com/Tanos_Mobile_Accessories_s/50.htm
Now, an alternative:
One thought I had involved the use of a hinged/pivoting “T hook”. I never find quite the right hardware to use. But here’s an example:
http://teamathleticgroup.com/product/1-swivel-t-hook-tfa110/
Basically, attach it somehow. Then flip it up to secure the Systainers by putting the “T” between the catches. Problem is: Somehow you need tension / friction. And it seemed to me that having enough of a friction fit would eventually wear away at the plastic.
Similar threads
