I have an RO150 that I'd love to use to polish my cars. I'm looking for a "how to" quick start, on the subject. I've watched some other detailers vidoes on polishing, but they're pretty complicated and don't use the RO150. I'm hoping to be able to get a gradual start with the basics, without having to make a big investment in pads and polishes. I saw one Festool video on the subject where the detailer was using Festool branded polishes. I'd like to be able to start out with a couple of pads and a couple of polishes to get my feet wet.
How To "Using RO150 For Car Polishing"
- Thread starter darita
- Start date
nclemmons
Member
There is a great thread here:
http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/other-projects/1873-polishing-your-car-rotex-part-1-a.html
And it continues to a second thread here:
http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/other-projects/1874-polishing-your-car-rotex-part-2-a.html
Neil
http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/other-projects/1873-polishing-your-car-rotex-part-1-a.html
And it continues to a second thread here:
http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/other-projects/1874-polishing-your-car-rotex-part-2-a.html
Neil
Dirita,
About the beginning of June I showed some images of my wife's car right after I spent a considerable amount of time on it. It went to the dealer to have a small dent taken out of the hood and the operator of the polisher apparently never got the memo on how to polish the hood. Tomorrow I had already planned on shooting a video about correcting his work. The car now has 5100 miles on it and it could use a quick clay job also.
So maybe tomorrow afternoon I'll have something to show.
Detailing can be as complicated and costly as people want to make it.
Peter
About the beginning of June I showed some images of my wife's car right after I spent a considerable amount of time on it. It went to the dealer to have a small dent taken out of the hood and the operator of the polisher apparently never got the memo on how to polish the hood. Tomorrow I had already planned on shooting a video about correcting his work. The car now has 5100 miles on it and it could use a quick clay job also.
So maybe tomorrow afternoon I'll have something to show.
Detailing can be as complicated and costly as people want to make it.
Peter
the Mirka website has some good information on polishing. Does anyone know how comparable Mirka sanders are with the Festool?
Also I seem to remember a document that Festool had on their website regarding polishing but can't seem to find it now. I should have printed it when I came across it the first time.
Also I seem to remember a document that Festool had on their website regarding polishing but can't seem to find it now. I should have printed it when I came across it the first time.
Sorry Darita,
Due to technical difficulties and cloudy weather I didn't do the video today. I will try to get one done as soon as possible.
Peter
Due to technical difficulties and cloudy weather I didn't do the video today. I will try to get one done as soon as possible.
Peter
leakyroof
Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Messages
- 2,530
Avoid buying a coarse pad at first. Buy polishing pads that are softer or less aggresive in material so you can't damage your paintwork while you learn how to detail or use the Rotex. Lower your speed and pressure to also avoid any issues, although with foam pads at a lower speed, you're much less likely to get the paint 'burn' at a trunk or door edge than someone using a wool pad at high speed.
Depending on the condition of your paintwork on the vehicle, you can often get much better results washing it, then applying Clay Bars to pull up alot of 'crud' out of the clearcoat or solid coat before you even take the Rotex to the paint.
Doing this extra step, esp. for the first time with your car gives your polishing work that extra depth of light reflection or shine to it since you've removed material out of the way that you don't need to try and correct with a polishing pad after claying the paint.
Polishes- Start with a rated mild polish always, you can always move up to a more aggressive one if needed, but too coarse is just like woodworking, you end up working with larger scratch patterns than you needed to......
Glazes, contain fillers for defects and scratches that allow you to hide or at least minimize something that would require too much paint removal to get down into while polishing. They're great for old paintjobs or worn vehicles.
Waxes, so many out there, find one that works for your vehicle or lifestyle and stick with it. Some are better at a shine, but don't last as long, others last, but can seem a bit more of a satin or semi-gloss once you're done.
Sealers- generally, if you can't garage a vehicle and it lives outside all the time, these will hold up better to the elements than wax for a longer period of time.
Festool pads, Orange is the all-around pad, Medium in aggressive-nes... [wink]
I really like their Black Honeycomb polishing and waxing pads. Hold up well, and are flexible enough to handle the curves on the sheetmetal very nicely.
The pads clean easily with the right cleaner, I use Griots Garage Pad and Microfiber cleaner. Works very well. Others use Dawn or similar dishwashing soap.
Hope this helps you out.
Depending on the condition of your paintwork on the vehicle, you can often get much better results washing it, then applying Clay Bars to pull up alot of 'crud' out of the clearcoat or solid coat before you even take the Rotex to the paint.
Doing this extra step, esp. for the first time with your car gives your polishing work that extra depth of light reflection or shine to it since you've removed material out of the way that you don't need to try and correct with a polishing pad after claying the paint.
Polishes- Start with a rated mild polish always, you can always move up to a more aggressive one if needed, but too coarse is just like woodworking, you end up working with larger scratch patterns than you needed to......
Glazes, contain fillers for defects and scratches that allow you to hide or at least minimize something that would require too much paint removal to get down into while polishing. They're great for old paintjobs or worn vehicles.
Waxes, so many out there, find one that works for your vehicle or lifestyle and stick with it. Some are better at a shine, but don't last as long, others last, but can seem a bit more of a satin or semi-gloss once you're done.
Sealers- generally, if you can't garage a vehicle and it lives outside all the time, these will hold up better to the elements than wax for a longer period of time.
Festool pads, Orange is the all-around pad, Medium in aggressive-nes... [wink]
I really like their Black Honeycomb polishing and waxing pads. Hold up well, and are flexible enough to handle the curves on the sheetmetal very nicely.
The pads clean easily with the right cleaner, I use Griots Garage Pad and Microfiber cleaner. Works very well. Others use Dawn or similar dishwashing soap.
Hope this helps you out.
3R PROJECT
Member
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2014
- Messages
- 28
What kind of car do you drive ?
3R PROJECT
Member
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2014
- Messages
- 28
The ceros is an electric version of a below avarage air sander .Rupes skorpio is a far better sander for the money with a pad that actually knows how to stop and far better built, quality and pattern .Both of these do not even compare to the most amazing sanders ever made . The lex2 is a million times better, with the lex2 3mm orbit providing the most incredible sanding pattern available . The lex3 is even better . Mirka's Autonet does not compare to kovax , 3M purple , Norton 275 , Starcke Giant , Jost superpad , sia fibotec and barely better than indasa HT . Granat blows away all the afformentioned let alone Autonet . Better finish , more durable , more consistent , less dust and at a good price . The only paper that is better than Granat would be kovax sky which covers from 400-600 grit . Even that though only when sanding jap paint . When it comes to German SRC and UHS where sky struggles ,due to the hardness of the paint , Granat goes on top once again .
I have found this resource very helpful: http://www.ammonyc.com/videos/.
He's a Festool user too, you can see him using the shinex and dust collectors in different videos. Thanks for the notes on using the pads with the rotex, I'll be equipping my 150 and 90 for car use.
He's a Festool user too, you can see him using the shinex and dust collectors in different videos. Thanks for the notes on using the pads with the rotex, I'll be equipping my 150 and 90 for car use.
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