How would you (or would you) raise your countertop height without rebuilding?

Grasshopper

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Oct 6, 2014
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OK, I am progressing on my Island build, I have a tentative plan, I have the birch ply sitting in the shop.

As I have started designing on Sketchup, I realize that I need to commit on overall height.  I want the height to match my remaining countertops.

I had 3/4" hardwood installed to the edge of the base cabinets, so they effectively sit lower than before with the added height of the floors.  The cabs now sit at a low 33 5/8" tall (not including the countertop).  This is pretty low, and we are fairly tall (wife 5', 9", and I'm 6', 1").  I also worry that if our dishwashers (yup there are two) give up the ghost, they may be land locked with the floors butting up, requiring a plank or two needing removed to take out.

My question is, first would you, and second, how would you go about raising the counter height?

I was thinking I could get some poplar 1x1 or 1x2 and basically extend the face frame along the top in front (we are getting granite countertops so the formica is going away either way {why you ask, would I ever replace the awesome mint green colored countertops  ;D}).  I would attach using the Domino every 6 inches and glue/clamp.  Flush trim any excess and prep for paint as they are all going to be white.  For the back, I would run the same 1x as a cleat along the back wall.  Not sure about the 4 sides that would need to be dealt with likely I'd run butt joints into the back cleat and front extended FF and also attach with dominos and glue.

Below are pictures of my current builder grade cabinet bases.  (I am getting new doors, and having everything painted white.  I'll be building the island carcass, hopefully this week).

So, how would you go about raising existing base cabinets to have a better countertop height?

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Hi Grasshopper.
I don't know about the US but here in Canada standard counter top height is 36" from the finished floor. Assuming your countertop is 3/4" thick and is sitting on a 3/4" peice of plywood, I would not mess with the top of the cabinets at all. I would remove the existing kickplates and hopefully the cabinets are on adjustable feet and I would raise the cabinets by 7/8" and build new kickplates. The 7/8" is based on your height of 33 5/8" not including the countertop. I did something similar a few years back and it worked out perfectly. The tricky part is to make sure the new kickplates butt up perfectly to the new hardwood so that way you will not need to put 1/4 round down. I hate 1/4 round myself. Good luck.
JC
 
I build cabinets at 34 1/2" from the finished floor and add a top that projects 1 1/2" from there for a total height of 36". You can add the 3/4" or so inch from the bottom by building taller platforms on which the bases rest, remove the platforms and put adjustable legs on, or make a thicker top. Adding to the top of the bases may be visible and not very attractive, depending on the overhang of the top. If you are 6' and looking down at the cabinet base, you will not notice the addition.

One rule I try to live by is, that if you make a mistake, make the correction as if that was part of the intended design. Scotia (sp?) molding that is tall enough to hide the seam will do it, and will even look good.
 
Thanks for the replies so far.

The issue is that the original base cabinets (not my work) are mounted direct to the subfloor.  There is no way to raise them from the floor without tearing out all of the base cabinets (and the issues that are created by doing so).

The new 3/4" hardwood runs flush to the old base cabinets (also not my doing), bringing the effective height of the cabinets/countertop down 3/4" as they are now effectively recessed into the subfloor.

Without creating a bunch of work (ie. trying to raise the bottom base cabinets), I am looking for a solution relating to building up a filler on top of the existing face frame so the new counter is sitting at 36" and the dishwashers clear with ease.
 
Make a feature of  whatever you use to make up the height. If you try to blend your make good piece in it will look odd.
Dave
 
I had considered a small moulding which could actually look pretty cool.

If I just extended the face frame, I was thinking that enough sanding, filler, and ultimately paint could mask the joint…but I could be underestimating the task.

Davej said:
Make a feature of  whatever you use to make up the height. If you try to blend your make good piece in it will look odd.
Dave
 
In the words of Homer Simpson…d'oh.

The "right way to do it" is in the back of my mind…nagging at me  ;D

Is it too much to hope there is an easy way?  ;D

Cochese said:
If you're going to do it, do it right. Unless the cabinets are glued to the floor, take them out, put more floor in, put them back in. You won't be satisfied in the long term rigging up a workaround.
 
I like the thought of a decorative molding.

Does anyone out there have an example where this was done and looked great?

pugilato said:
I build cabinets at 34 1/2" from the finished floor and add a top that projects 1 1/2" from there for a total height of 36". You can add the 3/4" or so inch from the bottom by building taller platforms on which the bases rest, remove the platforms and put adjustable legs on, or make a thicker top. Adding to the top of the bases may be visible and not very attractive, depending on the overhang of the top. If you are 6' and looking down at the cabinet base, you will not notice the addition.

One rule I try to live by is, that if you make a mistake, make the correction as if that was part of the intended design. Scotia (sp?) molding that is tall enough to hide the seam will do it, and will even look good.
 
Here's what I was thinking... Adding the filler strip should not weaken the structure at all, and the dominos should help it line up with the cabinet. The drawing tells the rest of the story. (I think I forgot how to add attachments, let's hope this works)

 

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pugilato said:
Here's what I was thinking... Adding the filler strip should not weaken the structure at all, and the dominos should help it line up with the cabinet. The drawing tells the rest of the story. (I think I forgot how to add attachments, let's hope this works)

pugilato,

We have done it this way in the past and turned the modification into a design element. It was so successful that we had people request this detail in cabinets that never had an issue to begin with...lol  [big grin]
 
Adding to the top and using scotia works as long as you can still get the dishwashers in and out under the face frame. You can always add 3/4 ply,or whatever thickness works, under the appliances to be flush with the floor. That will be covered by the appliance itself. Head room is the issue. I need to look at how I did mine because I needed to do something similar for my dishwasher. I did not need to do anything extra to gain clearance at the top. I am going from memory as it's not in front of me.

I am sure this happens all the time with kitchen redos. Others will chip in as they get home from work.
 
Greg,

Thanks for your thoughts.  I do look forward to hearing from those who have solved this problem before.

The good news is I don't have any face frame over either dishwasher.  Each dishwasher is sandwiched between cabinets with clearance directly to the counter.

greg mann said:
Adding to the top and using scotia works as long as you can still get the dishwashers in and out under the face frame. You can always add 3/4 ply,or whatever thickness works, under the appliances to be flush with the floor. That will be covered by the appliance itself. Head room is the issue. I need to look at how I did mine because I needed to do something similar for my dishwasher. I did not need to do anything extra to gain clearance at the top. I am going from memory as it's not in front of me.

I am sure this happens all the time with kitchen redos. Others will chip in as they get home from work.
 
Pugilato,

You are awesome!  Thanks for posting the picture, it tells a great story.  Something to really consider. 

(en caso que tu hablas español, gracias por tomar tu tiempo desde Puerto Rico.  Espero que estuviera alla durante el invierno)

pugilato said:
Here's what I was thinking... Adding the filler strip should not weaken the structure at all, and the dominos should help it line up with the cabinet. The drawing tells the rest of the story. (I think I forgot how to add attachments, let's hope this works)
 
I'd love to see pictures of the finished product.  Seems like it would look pretty slick!

ewils91 said:
pugilato,

We have done it this way in the past and turned the modification into a design element. It was so successful that we had people request this detail in cabinets that never had an issue to begin with...lol  [big grin]
 
Pull cabinets, fill in missing flooring with 3/4" ply, re-install cabinets. 

Really pretty simple and probably the least amount of dorking around required.
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
Pull cabinets, fill in missing flooring with 3/4" ply, re-install cabinets. 

Really pretty simple and probably the least amount of dorking around required.

Yep, have done that before, minimal dorking around. Did have to do it once so they could get the dishwasher out.
 
Gee whiz, thanks... the idea comes from many years of screwing up. Lifting the bases is probably best, but the man said the bases were screwed into the subfloor, so it all depends on how much effort he is willing to undergo. About the dishwasher, I would go ahead and put a new one in now, because it may be challenging to take out the old one under the current limitations. Myself, I would do away with the dishwasher. Here not many people use them, as we believe that the big man made sponges for a reason and it would be insulting to ignore them (kidding, except that we dont really use them that much).

Vivir en la Isla en invierno puede ser dificil a veces... por ejemplo, esta mañana hacian 69 grados. En la montaña a veces llega a los cincuenta bajitos.
 
Ideally adding to the bottom is the way to go under counter appliances are made to fit a standard 34.5'' cabinet height. One thing to also consider if you add to the top of the cabinets your toekick on the dishwasher may not line up with the bottom edge of your faceplate since it lost .75''. May not bother you but would bug the hell out of me just something to consider.
 
Another thought - Vecturo is coming out 12/1.  Buy one and the blades and flush cut from the existing floor around the base cabinets, raise them 3/4 and drop in a filler and then wrap with a base moulding.

You get a new saw to use.  The cabinets are raised. 
Shoot video in the process and you get fame with Festool as well on the next contest.

Everyone is happy!

Win.  Win.  Win.

Good luck -

 
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