How would you wainscot with trim like this?

[Grasshopper]

FOGers.

How would you create a wainscot look like the pictures below, using an existing baseboard (vs. milling everything).

I like how the vertical members run flush into the baseboard, even though the base has a small detail.  (it almost looks like a cope and stick cabinet door in the way it runs flush together).

If I were milling this from scratch, I'd assume that I could approach it the way cabinet panels come together.  Since I am working with an existing 7 1/4" baseboard, how can I join the vertical members in a way that it runs flush into the baseboard with a profile (keeping the baseboard in the same plane as the wainscot so it isn't proud of the door casing).

Any help would be appreciated.

Existing baseboard:
[attachimg=5]

Example 1 of the look I am trying to achieve:
[attachimg=2]

Example 2:
[attachimg=4]

Thanks in advance.

(I edited the initial attachment to show the actual baseboard)

 

[felkadelic]

Custom shaper/router knives so you could cope the end of the stile to the profile of the baseboard, maybe?

Edit: Actually, that may not work due to the bead on top of the baseboard.  You could always waste away the top profile of the baseboard where it meets the stile.

 

[morts10n]

Can you make your wainscot out of 5/8" or 3/4" rails and stiles everywhere , then remove just the bead detail from a length of baseboard and attach pcs of it to the top of the bottom rail (between stiles)?

 

[blaszcsj]

I think you could either make new base board for the room using a rail and stile router bit set or if you want to use existing baseboard cut a channel for your wainscot rails using a miter gage and dato set.

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks for the comments so far.

I realized that the profile I posted isn't exactly what the existing base looks like.

For clarification, see the existing baseboard profile (and I edited the first post to show the actual base)

[attachimg=1]

I like the idea of coping the 3/4" stiles into the baseboard.

After seeing a better picture of the base, how would you join or cope 3/4" stiles to flush into this base (ideally using festool techniques without  using a table saw which I don't have)?

 

[ear3]

If the stiles are thin enough (less than 3.5") couldn't you use a jigsaw to do the coping?  But getting a perfect cope and a flush fit would still be challenging.  Which is why...

I agree with others that the easiest way to go would be to cut out the top of the base profile with an oscillating tool where the stiles will be.  Since it has a painted white finish, you could easily caulk any areas where there was a slight gap between the base profile and the stile.

 

[Bob Wolfe]

Your examples look to me like they are two piece moldings, with the cove added after the flat square is assembled.  That would be the easiest.
BW

 

[tjbnwi]

Pad out the base board to 3/4", remove top detail, fit stile to base board.

Tom

 

[Grasshopper]

It is a one piece molding that looks like a two piece.

Your examples look to me like they are two piece moldings, with the cove added after the flat square is assembled.  That would be the easiest.
BW

 

[tiralie]

I doubt you will find a router bit that will fit that profile so coping is out.

There are a couple ways to do this from fast to slow.

1) buy S4S same thickness as base board for stiles. Remove base board. Measuring from floor to chair rail etc., cut s4s to length, glue and nail. Cut existing baseboard to fit between stiles, glue and pin. Fill joints, nail holes and sand. Prime and paint. Take significant other out to dinner.

2) buy a multi cutter. buy S4S same thickness as baseboard for stiles. Place S4S end on floor and over baseboard in position and mark. Cut baseboard with  multi cutter where stile passes through. Apply stiles with glue and nail. Fill nail holes and joins and sand. Prime and paint. Take significant other out to dinner.

3) buy S4S same thickness as base board for stiles. Place S4S over baseboard in position so end rests on the transition from the profiled section to the bottom portion of the baseboard and mark with marking knife. Get chisel and  carefully chisel out notch to fit stile. Apply S4S with glue and nail. Fill nail holes, joints and sand. Prime and paint. Take significant other out to dinner.

Tim

 

[chris mann]

I'd just pull the baseboard and rip the profile off the existing with TS55 and fence.  Then make your wainscot on wall with s4s material.  Then you can cut the profile to fit in-between and just caulk and pin it on.

 

[Grasshopper]

Thank you Tim for your advice!  Very good solutions!!!

(My wife would like the counsel to take her to dinner)

I doubt you will find a router bit that will fit that profile so coping is out.

There are a couple ways to do this from fast to slow.

1) buy S4S same thickness as base board for stiles. Remove base board. Measuring from floor to chair rail etc., cut s4s to length, glue and nail. Cut existing baseboard to fit between stiles, glue and pin. Fill joints, nail holes and sand. Prime and paint. Take significant other out to dinner.

2) buy a multi cutter. buy S4S same thickness as baseboard for stiles. Place S4S end on floor and over baseboard in position and mark. Cut baseboard with  multi cutter where stile passes through. Apply stiles with glue and nail. Fill nail holes and joins and sand. Prime and paint. Take significant other out to dinner.

3) buy S4S same thickness as base board for stiles. Place S4S over baseboard in position so end rests on the transition from the profiled section to the bottom portion of the baseboard and mark with marking knife. Get chisel and  carefully chisel out notch to fit stile. Apply S4S with glue and nail. Fill nail holes, joints and sand. Prime and paint. Take significant other out to dinner.

Tim

 

[Grasshopper]

Thank you Chris.

That seems like the way I should go.  It would be a good use of the new Grex 23 gauge pinner i bought as well.

Since I haven't yet installed the baseboard, it seems like a simple solution.  (basically making it a 2 piece molding).

I just bought the 2700mm rail, which would help as well!

I'd just pull the baseboard and rip the profile off the existing with TS55 and fence.  Then make your wainscot on wall with s4s material.  Then you can cut the profile to fit in-between and just caulk and pin it on.

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks everybody who made suggestions.  I think I now have a way to do this!  I'll post pictures when I get around to putting this up.  The FOG is a special place indeed!!!  ;D

Couple related questions:

First Question:  I plan to have a 1/8" plywood behind the wainscot as a panel.  It seems like the easiest to just put a full sheet behind the base/casing etc. (rather than mount the base/case, rails and stiles and then insert smaller panels.  Is this the preferred approach

Second Question:  How deep do you like your plinth blocks?  All my baseboards/casings are 3/4" thick (casings are 4 1/4" wide).  I my plinth blocks will be 4 1/2" wide by 8 " tall, but I'm not sure what thickness I should do (also either relying on typical stock sizes that don't require planing since I don't have a planer).  I got a sample that is 1 3/8" thick, but it strikes me as a little to proud.  Thoughts?

 

[tjbnwi]

Plinth go 1-1/8" thick. That leaves you 1/2 the thickness of the casing proud.

Again you can easily pad out stock material on a paint finish job.

Tom

 

[Grasshopper]

Thank you Tom!

Plinth go 1-1/8" thick. That leaves you 1/2 the thickness of the casing proud.

Again you can easily pad out stock material on a paint finish job.

Tom

 

[Grasshopper]

Tom,

I forgot to ask, what stock would you use in order to accomplish a 4 1/2 wide by 8" tall by 1 1/8" thick plinth without a planer?

Plinth go 1-1/8" thick. That leaves you 1/2 the thickness of the casing proud.

Again you can easily pad out stock material on a paint finish job.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Back to the question about the panel behind the wainscot pieces;

As much as I hate MDF it is the better choice here. Later and paints better.

You have to consider how the panel behind the elements will affect everything else in the room. Normally fitted in is the way to go. You could also dado the elements to cover the panel edges.

A 1by piece with 1/2" parting stop will work. Gives you a chance to use your pinner. Only need to edge 3 of the edges.

I was looking for some pics, don't have any.

Tom

 

[Grasshopper]

*Update*

I have changed course on the wainscot method I was planning.

I ended up going with beefier casings out of 5/4" stock, and stepping out my plinths just under 2" deep.  This allows for my 3/4" rails and stiles, plus another 3/4" with the baseboard in front of the wainscot.  It just felt more substantial to have the baseboard proud of the wainscot rather than flush.

As I mock it up, I like how it looks.

My question is what you'd use for the "panels".  I bought some 1/8" hardboard and was thinking about installing that after I tack up the wainscot, and finish off with some inset trim detail (that isn't proud of the rails and stiles).

Something about the hardboard feels cheesy, but I really don't want to lose too much reveal so 1/8" is ideal.

I'm not a fan of MDF.

What do you like for flat panels inside wainscot that will have an inset trim piece of some kind?  Is hardboard the best option?

Picture of entry with new casing, plinth and headers: (blue tape will be the wainscot height approx.)
[attachimg=1]

Mockup of wainscot (minus the center panel):
[attachimg=2]

 

[tjbnwi]

Trowel on some glue and use the MDF.

Choose the appropriate size trim, it will look good.

Tom