HVLP for on site spraying

Tim,

The only reason I can figure they don't send the wrench is, additional tips are optional. Other than that I have no other explaination. Can you take your CAT in the field if the need arises? If so what compressor do you have that runs it. As I said, I'm going to look into the CAT's, I may have to invest in one.

I've heard the Pro Shots, how bad is the resonance when it is inside a cabinet?

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Tim,

The only reason I can figure they don't send the wrench is, additional tips are optional. Other than that I have no other explaination. Can you take your CAT in the field if the need arises? If so what compressor do you have that runs it. As I said, I'm going to look into the CAT's, I may have to invest in one.

I've heard the Pro Shots, how bad is the resonance when it is inside a cabinet?

Tom

Tom

Can't really take them inside with primer or paint...cant get the pressure down enough and cant move fast enough, so you end up shooting "into" the box, as opposed to being able to actually go inside.

The exception would be clear finishes with either of the pressure controlled units. That "could" be done from a pressure standpoint, but navigation would be tough in a normal sized cabinet. It would have to be big, and it would be loud. They are not stealthy.
 
This is what I mean by shooting in instead of inside.

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tjbnwi said:
Can you take your CAT in the field if the need arises? If so what compressor do you have that runs it.

Tom:
Sorry, I have not had a chance to use my Lynx 100L in the field. So much for my carefully laid out plan. They are designed to work with 2hp compressors.
When I get to using it I will let you know how it performs.
The plan was/is to test with my 2 HP, Bosch 4 gallon compressor. It will be a stretch as the Bosch compressor @ 20 amps puts out a maximum of 4.9 cfm @ 90psi. With the the 21-1090 cap I need 15psi max and 6 cfm at the gun.
The Lynx L can be hooked to a pressure pot or siphon. 
I did test the Bosch connected to a 10 gallon PIG with the H20 guns. As expected it was not a great spraying experience. With the trigger pulled, the Bosch ran 100% of the time. It couldn't keep up to the CFM requirements.
Tim
 
Scott B. said:
This is what I mean by shooting in instead of inside.

Scott:
That's cool. Are you "shooting" solvent based there? The blow back/vortex must be huge or is it a very small pattern and high pressure?. I know you can shoot across a room but it's gotta land somewhere. I am quite sure I couldn't get away with that with water borne and a conventional spray setup. The inside of the cabinet would be like sandpaper.
Tim

 
Tim Raleigh said:
Scott B. said:
This is what I mean by shooting in instead of inside.

Scott:
That's cool. Are you "shooting" solvent based there? The blow back/vortex must be huge or is it a very small pattern and high pressure?. I know you can shoot across a room but it's gotta land somewhere. I am quite sure I couldn't get away with that with water borne and a conventional spray setup. The inside of the cabinet would be like sandpaper.
Tim

Tim

Its a 213, so a 4" fan and fairly large orifice. Just pumping, not a heck of a lot of atomization, so you have to move and make sure it all hangs on the verticals, and keep it all wet at once. Its a different approach, based on the sprayer and product. It is wb satin impervo 314. I wouldn't be able to do it that way with hvlp or aaa either, the atomization is finer and pressures are so much lower that it would translate to a series of rough tack coats. Fortunately, those technologies would allow me to enter the piece.  [cool]
 
I have a Fuji HVLP and am happy spraying what I think is called pre-cat laquer (its a 3 part mix of varnish, with thinner and hardener) but I seem to make a real mess with anything else. Oil based paint seems to run far too easily and I always seem to have oceans of over spray and mist. Wish I could get one of you experts to teach me how to paint. I often end up going for the roller as the zero clean up time is also a plus.

Anyway, I wanted to ask the original poster what he is going to use as primer and finish as he is in the UK and I can buy paint there as easily (or easier) than in France.
Regards,
Richard.
 
I'd be happy to, Richard. Waterbornes are ultimately easier to use than anything else.
 
Scott B. said:
Its a 213, so a 4" fan and fairly large orifice.

Scott:
Hard to tell in that photo, is it on a ProShot (original)? Does it matter? I noticed the tips are specific to the guns, but can you mix and match?

Tim
 
Tim Raleigh said:
Scott B. said:
Its a 213, so a 4" fan and fairly large orifice.

Scott:
Hard to tell in that photo, is it on a ProShot (original)? Does it matter? I noticed the tips are specific to the guns, but can you mix and match?

Tim

Tim

That photo is the original proshot. Tips, batteries, cups etc are interchangeable and they are rac style reversible, same quality as a airless.
 
Richard,

Your Fugi should have come with a Ford 4 cup, let me know how many seconds the material your having problems with is. I'll let you know which tip and air cap you need. Per-cats here are 26-28 seconds and work well with the stock #4 tip and air cap.

Tom
 
mastercabman said:
tjbnwi said:
Tim,

I just looked at the CAT web site 11 CFM at 29 PSI?

Which one do you have and why do you like it?  I see it can be hooked to a pot or PPS.

Tom
Im not tim,but yes 11cfm at 29 psi.I have the jaguar 100 with PPS.
Sorry but i was wrong.My gun dosen't use that much cfm.What you saw was most likely the CPR CAT  a reduced pressure gun that need 11 cfm at 29psi.I need 29 psi at my inlet and i think(if my memory serves me well)it uses 5cfm at the tip?
Those CPR guns are used in shops/spray booths with a good size compressor.

Also i mostly shoot precat lacquer.I use the jaguar j100h gravity feed gun.Designed to be use with small HP compressor.It does very good,but i don't do much production work this days.Most of the stuff i do is touch-up;paint molding;once in a while a bookcase/built-in;couple cabinets..etc...
 
richard.selwyn said:
I have a Fuji HVLP and am happy spraying what I think is called pre-cat laquer (its a 3 part mix of varnish, with thinner and hardener) but I seem to make a real mess with anything else. Oil based paint seems to run far too easily and I always seem to have oceans of over spray and mist. Wish I could get one of you experts to teach me how to paint. I often end up going for the roller as the zero clean up time is also a plus.

Anyway, I wanted to ask the original poster what he is going to use as primer and finish as he is in the UK and I can buy paint there as easily (or easier) than in France.
Regards,
Richard.

After speaking to the rep today at the spray shop I cleared up the differences between the various graco models from here and state side. He also said uk are due 2 new models shortly but both are mini max wp updates. So it seems the only one with fine finish adjustability is not due to change at least in the short term.

We also discussed paints and he said that from their tests and customer reports that crown primers spray better than dulux, which requires more thinning. I'm due to speak to him again today to confirm one or two things so I will find out which one exactly.
 
Quick comment on the Proshot...when Scott says spraying the inside of a box is a challenge realize that means almost impossible for a novice, at least to get a good finish.  I really like the pro-shot but its like hunting squirrels with a 12ga.  For horizontal surfaces with latex it is so much better than a HVLP.  You can spray a door in 15 seconds, one coat, done....  Same job with a HVLP takes me several coats and hopefully no orange peel and between coat sanding.

For detailed vertical applications I am reaching for the HVLP, and usually priming with BIN.  Then I know there will be no problems with the priming coat and I can focus on getting 1-2 good finish coats and can start as soon as I have switched out my PPS.  If the primary purpose for your spray setup will be on-sight spraying of built-ins I think a HVLP or AAA setup is the way to go.

All it takes is watching the slump once to realize the time you thought you were saving by using the Proshot has just doubled.  It will spray walls and pillars no prob, just watch out for inside corners and anywhere you can't get a straight shot.  It would be an awesome system if you could have a hand held 1 gal pressure pot, you can burn through a quart in 2 minutes easy.  That would make the gun truly one handed and let you get into smaller spaces.  Being able to adjust the flow is a feature I would appreciate, but I don't see an upgrade to a PS2 in the near future.  Good luck on your journey, fortunately you are getting some great advice on this thread.
 
Kevin Stricker said:
It would be an awesome system if you could have a hand held 1 gal pressure pot, you can burn through a quart in 2 minutes easy.  That would make the gun truly one handed and let you get into smaller spaces.  Being able to adjust the flow is a feature I would appreciate, but I don't see an upgrade to a PS2 in the near future.  Good luck on your journey, fortunately you are getting some great advice on this thread.

Stay tuned. We are testing the new 1 gal backpack. (I am so not kidding)

Your assessment of the PS is spot on, Kevin. And now I have to get my door times down to 15 seconds? I was the first person on our team to break the 30 second mark on 6 panels vertical. Now everyone can hit 27. Getting down to 15 would be bomber. In fact, I would like to get it down to 0!
 
Maybe develop a CNC painting robot that does it full auto?  [tongue]
 
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