HVLP for on site spraying

[tjbnwi]

All comes down to understanding the equipment.

Tom

 

[Michael Kellough]

Eric,

When you can spray an even coat of water on a 2' square piece of vertical polished glass, with no bounce back or runs, you can start on a finish piece. After you practiced on all the stuff Scott listed try it, lots of fun to challenge yourself to do it.

Tom

That's a good one. Gonna try it.
Tim

Actually, me too.

For real?!

Reminds me of the sound of one hand clapping.

I know I couldn't do that unless the glass was really really dusty.

 

[Scott B.]

All comes down to understanding the equipment.

Tom

And the:

- substrate
- climate
- viscosity
- distance from target
- pace
- mil thickness

There is a bit of a psychology to finishing. All the best finishers have a bunch of gray hair.

 

[Scott B.]

Eric,

When you can spray an even coat of water on a 2' square piece of vertical polished glass, with no bounce back or runs, you can start on a finish piece. After you practiced on all the stuff Scott listed try it, lots of fun to challenge yourself to do it.

Tom

That's a good one. Gonna try it.
Tim

Actually, me too.

For real?!

Reminds me of the sound of one hand clapping.

I know I couldn't do that unless the glass was really really dusty.

I haven't done it on glass. But I have done it on vertical finishes that were similar to glass. It ought to be possible. That would actually show some mastery. No tooth, no binders. Like monday night RAW on the FOG.

Anyone up to posting up some video attempts?

 

[tjbnwi]

I'm in the middle of something else. When the time opens up I'll have to do a couple of my really bad videos. One on the pressure pot and one spraying on glass.

I tried to shoot a video today of routing in an arc of 1/2" in 18" on a flat surface 14" wide, con-caved one, con vexed on the other. Didn't notice until I was done with the process that my iPhone had no memory left. Oh well, guess I'm not entering that in the contest. It was an interesting process though.

Scott,

I got the Surfix set for this project, anything I need to know before I screw it up the first go round??? Indoor stool.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Eric,

When you can spray an even coat of water on a 2' square piece of vertical polished glass, with no bounce back or runs, you can start on a finish piece. After you practiced on all the stuff Scott listed try it, lots of fun to challenge yourself to do it.

Tom

That's a good one. Gonna try it.
Tim

Actually, me too.

For real?!

Reminds me of the sound of one hand clapping.

I know I couldn't do that unless the glass was really really dusty.

I bet you could, once you think about the set on your equipment up you need to do it, it's not as hard as it sounds.

Tom

 

[Scott B.]

I'm in the middle of something else. When the time opens up I'll have to do a couple of my really bad videos. One on the pressure pot and one spraying on glass.

I tried to shoot a video today of routing in an arc of 1/2" in 18" on a flat surface 14" wide, con-caved one, con vexed on the other. Didn't notice until I was done with the process that my iPhone had no memory left. Oh well, guess I'm not entering that in the contest. It was an interesting process though.

Scott,

I got the Surfix set for this project, anything I need to know before I screw it up the first go round??? Indoor stool.

Tom

On horizontals, it will be your little slice of heaven. On verts, it won't. I love surfix in situations where the substrate is larger than the sander/pad combo. If you are going up the legs etc, cut up some vlies to the delta shape for the 90. Don't try to chase them down with a round. You will gum up some vlies. When it says 6 hours, it means it. Beyond that, its a nice finish. Funny, we are busting it out this week too. Perhaps we should start a thread.

 

[tjbnwi]

I don't have a 90 or Deltex. I'll give it a shot with the DTS. I may have to hand rub the legs (don't take that the other way).

I got it, I'll agonize, [in a new thread] over an RO 90 or Deltex, how many pages do you think I'll get out of that ??? (Just pulling your chain Eric)

Tom

 

[Scott B.]

I don't have a 90 or Deltex. I'll give it a shot with the DTS. I may have to hand rub the legs (don't take that the other way).

Tom

Yah, you left yourself wide open on that one, TB, but I will take the high road. I don't need another warning from Peter  [scared]

You could probably make it fly with the DTS. When you see the effect you get on the flats, you aren't going to want to spend the time manually on the rest. Well, actually, it is YOU we are talking about here. But still, stay mechanized as much as you can on it, its a nice finish. We have done some interesting stuff with it lately that are not duplicable either manually or by sprayer. I think you will appreciate what you can get out of it.

 

[tjbnwi]

Scott, you have to remember, I used to hand rub automobiles with Kotexs and polish to get them ready for shows. These legs are a piece of cake.

Tom

 

[Scott B.]

Scott, you have to remember, I used to hand rub automobiles with Kotexs and polish to get them ready for shows. These legs are a piece of cake.

Tom

Yah, I forgot for a second. One of these days, you will forget your past and become a spoiled immediate gratification finisher like me.  [embarassed]

 

[Paul G]

Wanted to say thanks for all the useful info in this thread, I'm spraying cabinets, doors and trim soon on site of my remodel and needed to get the right equipment. Went with the AAA option of Graco finishpro 395, it will see some plain old airless time also but will be a dedicated waterbase system. Having done plenty of airless spraying this seems to offer less of a learning curve at this time, but will probably take the apollo HVLP plunge as well in the future. Looking forward to the adventure.

 

[tiralie]

Wanted to say thanks for all the useful info in this thread, I'm spraying cabinets, doors and trim soon on site of my remodel and needed to get the right equipment. Went with the AAA option of Graco finishpro 395, it will see some plain old airless time also but will be a dedicated waterbase system. Having done plenty of airless spraying this seems to offer less of a learning curve at this time, but will probably take the apollo HVLP plunge as well in the future. Looking forward to the adventure.

Paul:
Welcome to the FOG.
If you have time post some pictures of your project and your finish schedule.
Tim

 

[Paul G]

Paul:
Welcome to the FOG.
If you have time post some pictures of your project and your finish schedule.
Tim

I'll gladly post pictures and info when the time comes. Cabinets will probably be General Finishes milk paint topped with their enduro clear poly. I did some preliminary test with their milk paint and HP Poly clear and liked the results but slight yellowing of the clear so will try the enduro clear instead (which is spray only). Undecided on the latex trim paint at this time, have had good experience with both Aura and Behr in the past, but will test with the AAA and see how it goes.

 

[tiralie]

I did some preliminary test with their milk paint and HP Poly clear and liked the results but slight yellowing of the clear so will try the enduro clear instead (which is spray only).

Hmmm, interesting. Could it have been the milk paint that yellowed slightly?
I really like the GF industrial products.
Tim

 

[Paul G]

I did some preliminary test with their milk paint and HP Poly clear and liked the results but slight yellowing of the clear so will try the enduro clear instead (which is spray only).

Hmmm, interesting. Could it have been the milk paint that yellowed slightly?
I really like the GF industrial products.
Tim

I spoke with one of their reps and he said it was normal for that clear HP poly product. It's not very yellow like a spar varnish, just slight, probably not noticeable over wood but over white I could notice it. He suggested the enduro clear poly is the solution. Will test and see.

 

[tiralie]

I did some preliminary test with their milk paint and HP Poly clear and liked the results but slight yellowing of the clear so will try the enduro clear instead (which is spray only).

Hmmm, interesting. Could it have been the milk paint that yellowed slightly?
I really like the GF industrial products.
Tim

I spoke with one of their reps and he said it was normal for that clear HP poly product. It's not very yellow like a spar varnish, just slight, probably not noticeable over wood but over white I could notice it. He suggested the enduro clear poly is the solution. Will test and see.

Good to know. Thanks. Probably why it doesn't have the blueish cast some of the Target (lacquers) can have.
Tim

 

[Paul G]

I spoke with one of their reps and he said it was normal for that clear HP poly product. It's not very yellow like a spar varnish, just slight, probably not noticeable over wood but over white I could notice it. He suggested the enduro clear poly is the solution. Will test and see.

Good to know. Thanks. Probably why it doesn't have the blueish cast some of the Target (lacquers) can have.
Tim

I have no experience with Target, hopefully the enduro clear poly doesn't do the same.

 

[CarolinaNomad]

Update to all the guys who helped me select a machine.  I bought the Apollo 1050 vr and painted my mother-in-law's closet doors with a medium grade latex paint (I bought the medium grade paint thinking I was going to hand paint it, but decided to buy the machine and practice on her doors).  Anyway, after many attempts at adding the right amount of fleotrol and water and still only getting around 50 seconds through a ford #4 cup, I sprayed the doors anyways.  The results were great for my mother-in-law, but I could see a little bit of orange peel, very little.  That and the doors had a grain pattern which helped hide.  I probably could have gotten the paint down to closer to 40 seconds with added water, but I was getting tried of mixing, measuring and then testing.  I need to start working on my patience.  I'm hoping that a higher grade latex, ie 100% acrylic, may reduce the need for the maximum amount of fleotrol and water mixture.  But overall, I am quite happy with my purchase.

 

[tjbnwi]

Flotrol is not a reducer or thinner, it will not thin the paint. It is an extender. Allows a little more open time for the paint to even out.

There are latex reducers available, I've never used one.

Tom