HVLP Turbine Sprayers

I think I'll try that Valspar! The finish I liked best, Fuhr 355, is reallly hard to get now and they've change the formulation in some way as the finish was amber in the can before and is now white.

I started spraying with a relatively inexpensive Devilbiss FL3 gun and got fine results. For some reasong that I cannot fathom, I sold it and bought a Fuji QP4 - maybe it was just me but I couldn't get a decent finish at all  (I suspect the pressurized gravity gun might have done better). The only suggestion I got from the tech guy at Fuji was to thin the finish by a minimum of 25% which made it even worse. :(  I sold that puppy and now use a CAT Jaguar gun with PPS cups. It doesn't put on any better finish than the FL3 but it uses a heck of a lot less air.
 
I'm with Eiji on this one! I, too have tried and tried - followed every tip, suggestion, trick, you name it.  I have gone back to the old faithfuls!  I do really like my new Capspray though - for just about anything.  The finish is awesome - the learning curve has not been that steep either. Lots of professional painters us them in our area.

Good luck!
 
Hm, interesting read as I'm thinking of getting myself a spray system...
One thing that's irked me about these finishes, and I was going to ask about it on the (more appropriate) Target forums, but since this came up here and since I have an account here, I'll ask you guys what you think first (it's a long question, so feel free to ignore it and I'll ask over at Target Coatings).

I see the same thing on the Target site as on the Valspar site; they talk about how great each finish is but not what's wrong with it. Therefore, since I have little knowledge of "traditional" finishes, I have a hard time deciding which product is best for my applications.

Why would you chose a "Precatalyzed" WB lacquer over a regular WB lacquer?

What about "conversion varnish" or polyurethane? What are the pros and cons of each? I imagine there's differences in durability, ease of spraying vs brushing, and color vs. clear - but what are they? I mean there must be a reason why they have the different products but to read the manufacturer's web sites each one is "excellent for a durable finish on cabinetry and interior furniture applications".

What about BLO / Shellac / Sanding Sealer as a pre-finish for those of you doing WB spraying and / or brushing? Why chose one over the other?

I did a bit of searching elsewhere but a lot of information about "traditional" (solvent-based) finishes felt outdated, and a lot of the information about WB finishes spoke in terms of traditional finishes!

Thanks,
Chris
 
I dont have the knowledge in chemistry to answer your questions but I will tell you why I choose Valspar's precat lacquer.

On a durability, hardness and chemical and water resistance. It usually goes WB lacquer -> Precat lacquer -> conversion varnish.

I chose the precat because on a durability standpoint it is not that much less durable than the conversion varnish. If it does ever get scratches in it you can still sand and spray a new top coat. The conversion varnish gets so hard that repairability becomes an issue. I have sprayed valspar zenith lacquer, precat, and conversion varnish. I just have alot more fun with the precat. It sprays nicely, dries fast, powders up nicely after about 25 min.(if you dont lay it on too thick), lays down flat( really flat), polishes very easily, and get this I polish the next day after finish coat! Not too shabby. sure beats the heck out of waiting 3-4 days.

Oh yeah I spray directly over waterlox with no issues whatsoever. no more having to spray shellac between the waterlox and the valspar. Just make sure and spray at least 2 coats over the waterlox before sanding. it is super easy to cut thru if you sand after the first coat.

No need for sanding sealer. If you want the oil based ambering affect 1st coat with waterlox then spray over it (the next day). On maple just shoot it. It looks great. see?

 
Eiji Fuller said:
I dont have the knowledge in chemistry to answer your questions but I will tell you why I choose Valspar's precat lacquer.

On a durability, hardness and chemical and water resistance. It usually goes WB lacquer -> Precat lacquer -> conversion varnish.

I chose the precat because on a durability standpoint it is not that much less durable than the conversion varnish. If it does ever get scratches in it you can still sand and spray a new top coat. The conversion varnish gets so hard that repairability becomes an issue. I have sprayed valspar zenith lacquer, precat, and conversion varnish. I just have alot more fun with the precat. It sprays nicely, dries fast, powders up nicely after about 25 min.(if you dont lay it on too thick), lays down flat( really flat), polishes very easily, and get this I polish the next day after finish coat! Not too shabby. sure beats the heck out of waiting 3-4 days.

Oh yeah I spray directly over waterlox with no issues whatsoever. no more having to spray shellac between the waterlox and the valspar. Just make sure and spray at least 2 coats over the waterlox before sanding. it is super easy to cut thru if you sand after the first coat.

No need for sanding sealer. If you want the oil based ambering affect 1st coat with waterlox then spray over it (the next day). On maple just shoot it. It looks great. see?
Click to expand...

I can't find it locally.  Does anyone know where I can get it on the internet?
 
Peter Halle said:
You might want to try out this link and choose the find distributor button at the top right.  Valspar wood finishes
Click to expand...

Actually, I tried that link before I posted here -- It seems to only list brick & mortar stores, nothing on line unless I am missing it?
 
I don't think you will find it anywhere except a wholesaler. It won't be in any retail stores so you probably won't find it on the net with it being an industrial finish meant for professional use only.
 
Is there a good waterborne lacquer compatible with HVLP systems available to amateur woodworkers? 
 
Ron,

I have used the ML Campbells Agualente.  It's a Pre Cat Waterborne Lacquer.  Worked very well for me.  Sanding sealer is not needed, dries quickly and clear.  No Bluing.  It is fairly new but I found it locally at Hartville Hardware.  I'm sure any ML Campbell dealer can get it if they don't have it on the shelf.

I sprayed mine with an Earlex 5000 HVLP with a number 2  and a number 1.5 tip.  Good results with both tips right out of the can with no thinning. 
 
Eiji Fuller said:
I dont have the knowledge in chemistry to answer your questions but I will tell you why I choose Valspar's precat lacquer.

On a durability, hardness and chemical and water resistance. It usually goes WB lacquer -> Precat lacquer -> conversion varnish.

I chose the precat because on a durability standpoint it is not that much less durable than the conversion varnish. If it does ever get scratches in it you can still sand and spray a new top coat. The conversion varnish gets so hard that repairability becomes an issue. I have sprayed valspar zenith lacquer, precat, and conversion varnish. I just have alot more fun with the precat. It sprays nicely, dries fast, powders up nicely after about 25 min.(if you dont lay it on too thick), lays down flat( really flat), polishes very easily, and get this I polish the next day after finish coat! Not too shabby. sure beats the heck out of waiting 3-4 days.

Oh yeah I spray directly over waterlox with no issues whatsoever. no more having to spray shellac between the waterlox and the valspar. Just make sure and spray at least 2 coats over the waterlox before sanding. it is super easy to cut thru if you sand after the first coat.

No need for sanding sealer. If you want the oil based ambering affect 1st coat with waterlox then spray over it (the next day). On maple just shoot it. It looks great. see?
Click to expand...

Interesting and good info - thanks! I'm not a fan of the amber hue, so it sounds like pre cat lacquer would be my finish of choice. Will it work w. a brush (before I buy or rent a spray setup) - or is it really only for spraying? I'll have to give that Valspar a try (or Eiji might beat me up! :D), there are a few dealers around here. Since my post I did find some info on lacquer vs. poly and I guess the problem people have with poly is the "plastic look". I actually kind of want that in some applications (e.g. coating MDF with a clear gloss so that it still looks like MDF but feels like plastic), so that's good to know, but I wouldn't want that finish for most things so I understand why people usually don't even mention it.

On another note - do any of you ever use non-WB - i.e the scary flammable stuff - outdoors? (I'm just assuming doing it completely outdoors has to be pretty safe - correct me if I'm wrong). Is it just not worth it from a dust perspective? My understanding is that it dries almost instantly - so is dust really a problem or is it just unsafe? In your opinion(s) are the new crops of WB finishes nearly as tough and can you get the same finish as, e.g. a nitro-cellulose lacquer?

Thanks,
C
 
Are there any pro paint stores in your area?

dunn edwards, Sherwin Williams?

dunn edwards carries the Valspar or can order it in for you. They will sell to you.

sherwin williams carries ML Campbell, a pretty good waterborne line

i have heard good things about fuhr waterbornes too.

Just dont go to a big box and expect to be able to find high quality products.
 
Once again, Eiji is right on the money.  I would add Benjamin Moore, if they are available in your area. I use ChemLack over ChemSeal - a professional NC Lacquer from ChemCraft.  BM dealers often have it.  From start to finish - 2 - 3 coats of top coat - is about an hour if the temp is over 65F.  If you want to tint of color, Mohawk Ultra Penetrating Dye Stain is pretty standard.

One nice thing about them, if the finish is a little foggy, pebbled, ???, just shot it with some lacquer thinner and it will melt again and look great.
 
Eiji Fuller said:
Are there any pro paint stores in your area?
....
Just dont go to a big box and expect to be able to find high quality products.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm not too worried about it; I ahev an account at Sherwin Williams and apparently Manhattan Laminates is a Valspar distributor; those guys are super friendly; I've gotten hardware and edgebanding from them and they don't care how small you are.

Cheers,
Chris
 
Eiji Fuller said:
Are there any pro paint stores in your area?

dunn edwards, Sherwin Williams?

dunn edwards carries the Valspar or can order it in for you. They will sell to you.

sherwin williams carries ML Campbell, a pretty good waterborne line

i have heard good things about fuhr waterbornes too.

Just dont go to a big box and expect to be able to find high quality products.
Click to expand...
Eiji,

It turns out that Parker Paints in Bellevue, WA can order it for me.  Apparently it comes in multiple finishes.  Which one do you use? 

Thanks,

Dan.
 
I use gloss if Im going to polish. Then soft gloss and satin is just a matter of preference. One good thing about gloss is that you can make it satin of soft gloss by rubbing it out.
 
Dan,

If this is your first experience spraying I would start with satin. then work your way up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
FS: Fuji HVLP Spray System with 3 stage turbine
Replies
0
Views
88
WestMan_Canada
W
J
Picking a spray gun system
Replies
11
Views
2K
krudawg
K
W
FS: $ REDUCED Fuji HVLP Spray System 3 stage turbine GTA Toronto
Replies
0
Views
97
WestMan_Canada
W
six-point socket II
Wagner HVLP DIY/Homeowner type universal sprayer W 590 FLEXiO
Replies
7
Views
6K
mkasdin
M
P
HVLP vs Airless
Replies
2
Views
1K
Packard
P
Back
Top