I am now making a table-top child's log construction kit

Frank Pellow

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A few years ago, I made a "lifesize`log construction kit.  See the thread: http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/a-child's-log-building-kit-mostly-made-from-old-fence-boards/

Now, I find myself making a more traditional model size kit.  Here is what has happened so far:

Two weeks ago at Pellow`s Camp, my nine year old grandson Ethan brought a project with him to camp that was to involve the building of a “hunting” cabin.  We decided to make the building out of scraps of cedar and, to that end, we planed some wood down to a thickness of 1 centimetre.  Here is a photo of Ethan using my portable Delta planer:

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Observe that he is wearing my glasses to guard against chips in his eyes.

The thing that got Ethan started on the project was a model rifle that he saw in a Doll House supply store near his home.  I asked him how long the rifle was in order that I could determine scale, but he didn’t remember well enough to be reliable.  This put a halt to the project.

On Wednesday night this week back home in Tronto  Ethan slept over at our house, then the next afternoon the two of us went to the store to check the model rifle.  It is 9 centimetres long.  I imagine that the real rifle would be about 6 feet long.  So this gives us a scale of 1.5 centimetres representing 1 foot.  Ethan wants a cabin the represents a period about 100 years ago and, back then, Canada used the Imperial measurement system.  So I decided that the world we are representing will be Imperial.  However, I can still use the much superior Metric system for the parts I am making.  Hence, the Metric to Imperial conversion.

It suddenly occurred to me that the best way to build a log cabin model would be with model logs and that I should rip the boards that we had planed into strips and then cut and shape those strips into squared logs much like the logs in the Pan Abode cabin at Pellow’s Camp.  We had not planed a large enough supply at camp, so I planed down a few of old cedar boards that I salvaged when I replaced a section of Kathleen’s fence in July.

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Ethan and I traced out a rough plan of the cabin that he wants.  It is to be 24 by 20 feet interior space divided into a kitchen, store room, and living/dining room on the main floor and a sleeping loft above the kitchen and store room part.  A ladder will be used to reach the loft.  It should be possible to easily remove the roof and to look inside.  There will be a separate bécosse.  

The next thing that occurred to me is that I could design the logs and other parts with dimensions such that Ethan could build not only this cabin but other structures as well.

On my tablesaw, I cut the 1 cm thick boards down to 1.5 cm (mostly) and .75 cm (a few) strips.

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Thus, each part will represent a log 8 inches in width and 1 foot in height.  Back 100 years ago, it was easy to get such squared pine timbers in Ontario.

I beveled the strips slightly using this:

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bit on my router table.

Then, each strip was hand sanded to 120 grit using a Festool Granat pad:

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Finally, I was ready to cut and notch some logs.  There are going to be a LOT of them, so I needed to come up with some fast repeatable way of cutting the notches.  Each notch should be 11 mm wide and 4 mm deep.  This allows for a slight amount of slack and makes it easier to put logs together and tae them apart.  After some experimentation, the notching method that I decided upon is as follows:

(1)  Using a homemade (out of Baltic birch) miter gauge on my large (40 cm wheel) bandsaw, I set a magnetic featherboard on the steal table to act as a stop block.

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(2)  The bandsaw fence was set in a position such that the right hand side of the cut will be slightly more than 25 mm from the end of the model log.

(3)  The cut is lined up just to the right of a pencil mark on the fence.  This mark is positioned so that the left side of the cut that is about to be made will be slightly less than 15 mm from the end of the model log.

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(4)  The cut on the left side of the notch is made:
       
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(5)  Then, several small cuts are made to clear out the notch.  Here is a picture of a half (7.5 mm) deep log with two completed notches:

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I found that, with practice, I could cut a notch in about 6 seconds and that I could cut four notches into a full depth log in a little under a minute.  

In order to make as few unique parts as possible, the length of the log shown above will be used as the “standard”.  This log is 175 mm long and the portion between the notches is 120 mm long.  This represents 8 feet in the real word.  Eventually, as much as possible, longer and shorter logs will be based on multiples and common fractions of this standard.  But, Ethan will probably be gluing the logs of this original cabin together, so I will experiment with special non-standard parts and use all this as a learning experience.

I built this set of logs to use as the base of the cabin:

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Yesterday evening, I was going great guns making more logs when the blade on my bandsaw snapped.  [embarassed] [crying] I think that this was caused by me over-tensioning the blade.  I don’t have the time right now to get a new blade, so the project is again on hold, this time for a couple of weeks.  Here is what was completed before the halt:

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The final thing that I did with each log was to sand it with 180 grit Granat paper, punch an identifying part label into it and enhance that label with a pencil.
   
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Yes Neil, I had a similar log construction set when I was young.  I certainly don't claim that creating such a log set is a new concept, but it is fun to design and to build my own.  Along the way, I expect to manuafacture a few unique parts.
 
Frank, you come up with the coolest projects! What kid would't go crazy for his own completely unique set of those logs? Heck, I wanna play with them!
 
Allen Levine on the Family Woodworking forum suggested an alternative and better way of cutting the notches.  The suggestion was to gang together some logs on a sled on my tablesaw and to cut the notches with a dado blade set.

I am happy to report that the suggestion worked like a charm. I ganged together 6 logs together with one already notched log to use as a guide. Here is a photo:

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It took only 3 minutes and 10 seconds to set up and to notch the 6 logs which is about half the time it would have taken on the bandsaw. And, the cuts are smoother!

I am surprised that I did not think of using this method  :-[  ??? , but this shows, yet again, the advantage of getting feedback from other woodworkers.

 
August 29th Update:

Yesterday afternoon, I showed Ethan the logs that I had made so far and he was very very happy with them:

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He got right into it and made several suggestions, many of them quite good. For example, Ethan suggested making floorboards for the loft, observed that that cedar would not be strong enough, and recommended that we use oak. Here Ethan is examining a prototype loft floor made a oak boards which he helped me manufacture:

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A suggestion that I doubt we will actually act upon is a toilet (of the “drop down” type) placed in an area which small protrusion of the upper floor jutting out over the rest of the building:

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We had a great time together planning things and trying out a few of ideas. There is no way I would rather spend my time –and I think that Ethan feels the same way.
 
Septemer 4th Update:
Going back to the start of the week, Ethan and I visited a doll house store near his house and we purchased a bug of small cedar shingles. We got what I would estimate to be about 400 shingles for about $5. I, then, spent too much time experimenting with placing the shingles on roof modules (using contact cement). The problem is that the singles are of some non-Metric and non-Imperial size and I have not (yet?) come up with what I consider to be a optimum size roofing module. Here I what I have come up with so far:

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The cedar shingles have been glued to a piece of 3mm think Baltic birch plywood which fits into a “standard” 12 cm x 12 cm square. A half log glued 5 mm up from the underside of the roof module holds it in place. The problem with what I have done so far is that, because of the uneven overhang on the left and the right of the plywood, more than one type of roof module will be required. I would like to remove this requirement.
 
September 18th Update:

Ethan was getting a little impatient with my experiments with an optimum number of “standard” logs and other parts. After all, this started out as a hunting cabin project, not a kit to build any type of building. He did agree that he would like such a kit, but it seemed, if he waited for a kit, it would probably be a long time before we built the cabin. So, I agreed to forget the kit for a while and proceed to work on the cabin, even though this would mean that we needed to make some special non-standard parts. While building the cabin, I expect to learn things that will help me later on when I return to designing and building some general kits.

Ethan wants us to glue together the logs for his cabin and to place it on a permanent base. We had been using contact cement in our experiments with shingles and when my friend Kevin saw this, he suggested that we try a hot glue gun instead. We did try this:

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But, we found that the wax (or whatever it is that the gun pushes out) takes up perceptible space unlike glue. Also, we didn't like the little wispy strings of glue formed when taking the gun away So we gave up on this, took the stuff we had already glued apart, cleaned it up, and used carpenter’s glue instead:

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We both prefer using the “real” glue. I thought that it might need clamping but, so far, we have not needed to use clamps on the logs. We did, however, need to use clamps when gluing the shingles to the roof:

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We did try a hot glue gun for this operation as well, and here it worked better because the space taken up by the glue did not get in the way, but we both preferred using carpenter’s glue.

I’m now ganging together about a dozen logs at a time both for cutting and for notching. What with that, it now only takes about 15 seconds to notch a log and I estimate that, all steps included, I can produce about 40 logs an hour. There have been a few customized logs that take longer. One such group of customized logs was those that are tapered at the top to support the sloping roof. Ethan suggested that we should make the roof with a single slant and even knew that this style of roof is called a “shed roof”. I usually cut tapers with a track saw on a guide rail, cut these logs are too small for such an operation, I needed to use my table saw. When faced with cutting tapers in the past, I have usually built a custom jig but, this time, I decided to invest a little bit (about $30) in a Vermont American table-saw jig that can handle tapers up to 15 degrees. Even with this I still needed to make a small sacrificial addition, in order to gang together a taper all the logs to be used at the top of one wall:

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Here are a couple of pictures taken with all the wall logs in place (but with only the base logs glued into place):

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And, here the walls have been taken down, for “shipment” to Ethan’s house:

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September 24th Update:

I didn’t do much work on Ethan’s cabin this week, but I did build a door and a window. I made the frames out of “standard” 1.5 cm by 1 cm cedar wood; that is the same dimension that I used for the logs and then cut a big 1 cm wide groove deep into the middle of the 1.5 cm wide side. I glued together the door frame then augmented the glue joint with brass canoe tacks, having first drilled pilot holes using a pin vise:

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I found some very very small screws and hinges for the door at Lee Valley:

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The window utilizes the same frame pieces, with a small groove cut along the interior side using a thin kerf blade on my table saw. The grooves hold a piece of Plexiglas in place. Here the parts of a window are being dry fitted:

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And here the window is clamped after having been glued:

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Instead of working on Ethan’s cabin, I got back to the design of more general purpose kit. For the time being (at least), I have settled on this set of log sizes:

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A: 1.5 1 12 1 1.5

C: 1.5 1 6 (full height only)

CC: 1.5 1 3.5 1 1.5

D: 1.5 1 4.5 (full height only)

E: 1.5 1 5.5 (full height only)

G: 1.5 1 4.5 1 1.5

J: 1.5 1 9 (full height only)

K: 1.5 1 9 1 1.5

L: 1.5 1 25 1 1.5

LL: 1.5 1 12 1 12 1 1.5

M: 1.5 1 38 1 1.5

MM: 1.5 1 12 1 12 1 12 1 1.5

P: 1.5 1 12 1 3.5 1 1.5

W: 1.5 1 3 (full height only)

X: 1.5 1 1.5

Y: 1.5 2 1.5

Notes:
• Scale: 1.5 centimetres represents 1 foot
• All measurements in centimetres
• All logs are 1 centimetre wide
• Full logs are 1.5 centimetres high, half logs .75 centimetres
• Notches are 4 millimetres high and 11 millimetres wide (except for part Y which has a double notch 22 millimetres wide)

Rather than having individual logs with slopes as was done for Ethan’s cabin, I decided to make a limited variety of glued-together logs to serve as gable end pieces. A group of logs is glued together:

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then cut on the diagonal in order to form two gable ends. The flat end of the piece is then notched on a scroll saw:

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Finally, two standard notches were cut into the slanted side with a dado blade on the table saw. Once cut this way, the same two gable pieces can be used either to support a shed roof:

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or to support one gable end of a “standard” gable roof:

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No doubt you are one of the greatest grandpas in the world.

I remember my grandparents from a very young age and had the pleasure to know them for 45 years. Some of my friends never even met their grandparents so I feel very lucky. Your grandson(and other grand kids) will remember these times and you will live on in him and he will talk about you to his kids as well.

I love my mom and dad, but my twins do not even know them, they do not see them at all and they are 9 years old. My older kids have not seen my parents in 10 years.

Not that it matters, but I just had to comment on what a great Grandpa I think you are to do these projects with your grand kids.  :)
 
Dovetail65, I appreciate the sentiments that you expressed.  I'ts unfortunate that your children do not know your parents.

I am only doing for my grandchildren what my maternal grandparents did for me.  They were very much a part of our family and I even lived with them for a while.

My grandchildren more than make it worth my while to spend time with them.  They enrich the lives of my wife and I in so many ways.
 
October 2nd Update:

This week, we got back to working on Ethan's custom-made cabin. We made good progress and now have it glued together in four interlocking sections. Here is a photo of Ethan clamping the glued doorway into place:

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The logs were designed with a bit of play because the notches are one millimetre wider than the logs. This works well for normal play and construction but, when we started gluing the logs together we found that sometimes things did not line up. I purchased a small (USA-made) razor saw intended for model use from Lee Valley (60F03.10). It cost only $6.50 and it works really well. Here is a photo of the saw in use widening a notch:

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Here is a series of photos showing the four sections being assembled:

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There are still a lot of details to be added and these will happen, over time, as Ethan plays with his cabin and gets ideas. Here is a close-up showing a couple of such details that we have already built:

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The first is the hole and the metal sheet in the roof where the stove pipe from a kitchen woodstove is going to protrude.

The second is a wooden eaves through with a hole at the left side where a downspout will lead to a rain barrel. This is modeled upon just such a wooden eaves through that my dad made and that was on the original cabin at Pellow’s camp.
 
I really like the detail.  What a great way to learn timber framing on a small scale.  Maybe he will be building the next structure on Pellow Island.
 
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