I built a table, what finish to use.

[tjbier]

So I made use a new farmhouse style table with 1 1/2" walnut top and old barnwood pine for the legs.
I put an oil based clear coat on it but I don't like it. It needs more coats anyway so I will sand it back down and put New clear on it.
What to use? Don't have a sprayer so hand brush will be needed.
I dominoed the whole thing with my new domino 500. That was fun!

 

[leakyroof]

You have choices. Waterbased should work ok once the oil based finish has fully dried or if you do end up sanding it mostly off. You can always seal the wood with Shellac, then apply Waterbased finish of your choice.
What product did you apply that you didn't like?
I've gotten decent results brushing on several General Finishes products.
They offer semi, gloss and finishes that mimic oil based finishes once you're done.

 

[jacko9]

You don't mention what product you used or the reason you didn't like that product.  I have had mixed results with Mimwax Wipe On Poly that looks very nice when applied but, didn't hold up to dinners and lunches over time.

I am now using General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Oil & Urethane Topcoat which is offered in Gloss, Semi-Gloss and Satin.

Jack

 

[Stone Message]

I do not know what sort of oil based product that you have used but....

I used to teach French polishing and I still use some of the techniques when applying oil and it does improve the finish by a mile. If your current finish is completely dry just kiss it with 180 grit. If it is not dry then use a vlie (green scotchbrite will do). Then apply some oil with a rag and rub it well in and then rub off as much as you can, with another rag if necessary. Let that dry and repeat. You should then have a deep satin sheen. If it were Osmo the finish would be able to take BBQ food plus red wine and ketchup every day of the week!

Peter

 

[rvieceli]

Peter - what Osmo oil would you recommend for something like this?

It looks to available over here and I have been wanting to try it. I am looking for a penetrating oil finish, matt sheen that feels like wood instead of polyurethane.

 

[tjbier]

To clarify, the boss doesn't like it .lol. it still will feel tacky to touch and its been 5 days now.
I think it will be fine after some more coats. But the finish I put on was an exterior one. I was in a time crunch so maybe that is part of the problem.
I will stay with a satin finish.

 

[Stone Message]

Peter - what Osmo oil would you recommend for something like this?

It looks to available over here and I have been wanting to try it. I am looking for a penetrating oil finish, matt sheen that feels like wood instead of polyurethane.

My favourite is Osmo PolyX as it produces the most subtle sheen which looks rich yet understated. For kitchen (wet) areas the Top Oil is great and for oak doors nothing beats Door Oil. The first coat of most oil finishes will dry very slowly. The trick is to leave it for 6-8 hours (more  won't hurt and less will be okay) then rub it off with a clean rag. Leave that for 12 hours and apply using the method I described in my previous post above. The instructions for most oils are for trades guys who need to get away from a job fast. If you have just a fraction more time then use my method and you get a much better finish.

Peter

 

[semenza]

What finish do you have on it now?

Personally I think a water base might look cloudy on the walnut. Personally I'd go with satin polyurethane lightly sand between coats with 320 or 400 Granat or Brilliant . Do some testing on scraps of the same material.

Seth

 

[GreenGA]

Peter,

If you have not done so already, I know I would love to see a series of French Polishing technique videos.  [big grin]

I do not know what sort of oil based product that you have used but....

I used to teach French polishing and I still use some of the techniques when applying oil and it does improve the finish by a mile.

Peter

 

[Scott B.]

So I made use a new farmhouse style table with 1 1/2" walnut top and old barnwood pine for the legs.
I put an oil based clear coat on it but I don't like it. It needs more coats anyway so I will sand it back down and put New clear on it.
What to use? Don't have a sprayer so hand brush will be needed.
I dominoed the whole thing with my new domino 500. That was fun!

The walnut will be beautiful with oil as the first coat. After proper cure time, you can do wb over that. I prefer ZAR Ultramax as a clear topcoat. It is an oil modified waterborne.

The pine is a different duck. Oil doesn't do much for it. You may choose to stain it before topcoating with the clear, or just go straight to clear. It will do its thing over time.

Very nice table.

 

[tjbnwi]

This stool seat is walnut with a cherry band. The finish is Surfix HD oil. It was tacky for about a week, once "dry"  to touch I final buffed it.

If you want to use a wipe on get Zar Oil Modified Ultra Max. It can be wiped on and any oil you missed most likely won't affect it. I've put it on fully dried Surfix. The cradle pic is Surfix with UM over it.

Sand the pine to 180, Seal Coat, stain then top coat.

Tom

I see Scott beat me to some of this.

 

[Scott B.]

Good points, Tom, and good example.

It is worth noting that Ultramax is good by any application method. Wiping is actually not its strong suit but can be done. It brushes and sprays even better. I wouldn't recommend rolling it though.

 

[tjbnwi]

Good points, Tom, and good example.

It is worth noting that Ultramax is good by any application method. Wiping is actually not its strong suit but can be done. It brushes and sprays even better. I wouldn't recommend rolling it though.

I neglected to give credit where credit is due, Scott is the one who recommended the Ultra Max to me and trying it over oil.

Zar now has a UM wiping finish.

Tom

 

[Scott B.]

Good points, Tom, and good example.

It is worth noting that Ultramax is good by any application method. Wiping is actually not its strong suit but can be done. It brushes and sprays even better. I wouldn't recommend rolling it though.

I neglected to give credit where credit is due, Scott is the one who recommended the Ultra Max to me and trying it over oil.

Zar now has a UM wiping finish.

Tom

Well now you're pointing me toward something. Haven't tried that yet!

 

[otis04]

Off topic, but the walnut surrounded by cherry table is similar to a design I have been considering.  Have you had any issues with the expansion and contraction of the wood given the different species and the picture frame of the walnut.
FYI, I am considering Brazilian Cherry wrapped in Birds Eye Maple.

 

[tjbier]

Thank you for the insight all!
What I used was  Old masters Spar marine, exterior.
I think I will let it be for a week yet, then sand down and go the poly or something like Scott suggested.

 

[itchy]

I would second peter parfitt's advice on polyX I have found it to give excellent reliable results. I feel polyX offers a perfect balance of ease of application and durability, when applying less is more. If you like your wood to look and feel like wood I would recommend polyX.

 

[Stone Message]

Peter,

If you have not done so already, I know I would love to see a series of French Polishing technique videos.  [big grin]

Good idea - I will add it to the list.

I am doing sharpening using lapping film at the moment. Then 4 more equipment reviews followed by work on a leather top pedestal desk (that will take for ever). I am not sure what finish I will be asked to do on the desk - it might be French Polish.

Peter

 

[leakyroof]

Thank you for the insight all!
What I used was  Old masters Spar marine, exterior.
I think I will let it be for a week yet, then sand down and go the poly or something like Scott suggested.

ah. Spar Varnish. Ok, that explains the slow cure.

 

[Scott B.]

Thank you for the insight all!
What I used was  Old masters Spar marine, exterior.
I think I will let it be for a week yet, then sand down and go the poly or something like Scott suggested.

Good call. It is best to keep it simple, that is usually where the best results come.  Keep us posted on the results. It looks like it will be a beautiful piece when finished.

I have linked a article I wrote this year about wood finishing, as there has been some discussion lately about it. It addresses HVLP finishing in particular, but the same principles would apply for those who finish by brush or other methods.

Its about developing methodical habits in the finish stage to create predictability in finishing and overcoming the mind fork that finishing can be. I would love it if you guys would add to the list, it is ongoing.

Finishing can be like being lost in the woods. Same psychology.

http://topcoatreview.com/2013/11/wood-finishing-tips/