Cheese
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I hit the mother load!!! I THINK. Curly maple, birds eye, figured cherry..
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Cheese
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ForumMFG said:
That's a real nice score. [smile]
I'd take the Rotex hooked to a vac with some 60 grit and go over every board lightly on the width just so that you can clean them up a bit and then be able to identify & sort the wood species easier. That'd be a good Saturday/Sunday project.
Cheese said:
Gotcha, i don’t have a wide belt sand at home but the company i work for has a 36” 2 head wide belt that ill be able to use.
Good tip for the rotex, just to knock off all the dirt. I only had 120 grit last and it took forever to clean it up which is when i decided to use a block plane to clear up most of it. The only way to clear that material fast with the rotex was to angle it applying pressure but i don’t like doing that as you can melt the stickfix extremely fast with the heat build-up. Ive done it before.
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RKA said:
No plans right now except to go through it all, cut off some ends that are bad, sort, and store it. I do have a list of projects that need started though! Just a matter of having time to start them. A kitchen buffet cabinet is first on the list. Im married with 3 kids, both full time jobs and i own a side business. I aquaculture coral and sell it at trade shows on the weekends 1-2 times a month traveling to cities from new york to chicago. Needless to say, i don’t have a ton of time for projects and a project that would take someone a day would take me a few months as i rarely have time for anything. But as the kids get older and things slow down i’ll have more time, knowing this is why i bought it because this wood will last me many many years worth of projects. I will probably sell a hand full of boards to get my money back, thats how i was able to get the wife on board with this purchase.
One thing I definitely want to do is pair some of this maple with waterfall bubinga for a narrow library table. I’ve located a few sources that sell waterfall bubinga in veneer sheets in the states.
Question, i really want to store this material in my basement. Basement is finished and i paid a lot of money for a whole home dehumidifier that keeps the house at 40-45% all year. Is there any real concern for insects since all of this is dry? I fear bringing it in the house would bring insects in that would chew up all the 2x4’s in all the walls, lol.
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Michael Kellough
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Only cut off a 1/4” of the ends even if deeply checked. Then paint the ends with a clear sealer, shellac at minimum.
Michael Kellough
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ForumMFG said:
Genuine varnish. Most people coat green wood with an opaque latex sealer to slow drying of the ends to reduce splitting (can’t think of the name now) but your wood isn’t green and I take it you want to be able to see the end grain of the boards in the stack. Don’t forget to sticker the stack (put small sticks between the boards so air can circulate).
Michael Kellough
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Every shop should have shellac on hand. It’s the aspirin of wood finishes.
General info on basic clear finishes.
Zinsser shellac is readymade and readily available. (You can make your own with dried flakes and alcohol from heavy to extremely thin for different purposes). But for sealing wood the ends of the boards it would take a few coats to equal one coat of varnish.
For the board ends I’d just get a quart of any varnish and a disposable bristle brush.
For “cleaning” the boards I like the RAS115 suggestion. It would be good practice to learn how to be productive and maintain fairly good sustainable collection.
General info on basic clear finishes.
Zinsser shellac is readymade and readily available. (You can make your own with dried flakes and alcohol from heavy to extremely thin for different purposes). But for sealing wood the ends of the boards it would take a few coats to equal one coat of varnish.
For the board ends I’d just get a quart of any varnish and a disposable bristle brush.
For “cleaning” the boards I like the RAS115 suggestion. It would be good practice to learn how to be productive and maintain fairly good sustainable collection.
