I used all my Festools for this one

[HowardH]

I'm moving into a new office and needed a printer stand.  The easy way out (and probably cheaper too!) would be to go to Office Max and buy a cheap chinese put together model.  No, this situation demanded more.  So here it is.  

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I think I used every Festool I own.  TS 75, MFT, OF 1400, RO150FEQ, RTS 400, MFS 400, T15, plus a Jointech router table, Dowelmax, and Leigh Superjig.  What a mess!  Good learning experience tho.  First time to make drawers with a separate front.  I had to scratch my head awhile to figure out to attach the fronts exactly where I wanted them.  I ended positioning my drawer pull jig where I wanted it and drilled a slightly smaller hole and then ran screws in from the front to hold it place. Then I pulled the drawer out and ran screws in from the backside then backed out the first set of screws.  Problem solved.  I finished it with NC lacquer toned to the color you see.  I don't know that I will do that again.  It saves some time but I think I may have been happier had i stained and then either lacquered or polyed.  Anyway, it turned out pretty good for me!

 

[DavidCBaker]

Wonderful work, Howard. Those drawer pulls are an elegant and simple match, too.

 

[HowardH]

Thanks.  There is always a bit of a "pucker" factor when using extension slides for the drawers.  [blink]  Getting those dimensions just right can be a bit un-nerving. They were attached directly to the sides of the cabinet so there was zero room for error.  Next, I think I will use a face-frame style which should allow me some wiggle room by adjusting the thickness of the mounting blocks. 

 

[waynelang2001]

Thanks.  There is always a bit of a "pucker" factor when using extension slides for the drawers.  [blink]  Getting those dimensions just right can be a bit un-nerving. They were attached directly to the sides of the cabinet so there was zero room for error.  Next, I think I will use a face-frame style which should allow me some wiggle room by adjusting the thickness of the mounting blocks.   

Hi Howard,

I know the feeling about using those drawers slides, the rule of thumb for me is to always add an extra 2mm overall to what ever the manufacturer tells you to. Then if the space does end up to wide its always easier to pack a piece of veneer behind it. Rather that then the drawer being to tight and you having to cut the drawer down.

 

[honeydoman]

Nice looking job!  Next time use the new Blum Tandom with bluemotion. They are undermounts. And are real sweet and can handle weight. I am using them on my current project.  14 sets 32 bucs a set  But worth it!

 

[atomicmike]

Nice looking job!  Next time use the new Blum Tandom with bluemotion. They are undermounts. And are real sweet and can handle weight. I am using them on my current project.  14 sets 32 bucs a set   But worth it!

Any good info on working with the Tandems? I'm getting ready to use some on a project, but haven't used them before, so I'm not really sure what to expect. And the documentation isn't helping with that.

- Mike

 

[Jonhilgen]

atomicmike, 

the tandems are super easy to use, and a great feature to boot.  It's pretty simple:  if you are using 5/8" sides, subtract 3/8" from the opening for your drawer width.  If you are using 1/2" sides, subtract 5/8" from the opening for your drawer width.  The depths are standard as well.  21", 18", 15". 

My advice would be to take a look at some of the knock-offs out there.  Nearly half the price, and not much noticable difference.

Jon

 

[jonny round boy]

I use Blum Tandems all the time at work (with solid timber drawerboxes), and have also used them in projects at home (with 12mm birch ply drawerboxes).

The documentation can seem intimidating & confusing, but it's quite simple really once you understand how it all goes together. I use them for both in-frame and lay-on drawer-fronts. I can't recommend them enough!

The 2 key points are:

1. Getting the drawerboxes the right size for the runners. This depends on the thickness of the timber you're using.

2. Setting the runners the right distance back into the carcase. This depends on the thickness of the timber you're using, whether they're in-set or lay-on, and whether you're using a secondary drawer front (added on to the front of the box) or using the front of the box itself.

Hope that helps. If you need more help, let me know & I'll do a tutorial on using them (may take me a few days to get it done though!).

 

[Jonhilgen]

[quote author=jonny round boy

The 2 key points are:

1. Getting the drawerboxes the right size for the runners. This depends on the thickness of the timber you're using.

2. Setting the runners the right distance back into the carcase. This depends on the thickness of the timber you're using, whether they're in-set or lay-on, and whether you're using a secondary drawer front (added on to the front of the box) or using the front of the box itself.
[/quote]

Atomicmike,

Hold the track back about an eight inch back from the face and you're good Togo

 

[jonny round boy]

Jon,

No offence intended, but in my view you're over-simplifying it. If you only have a few boxes to fit, then you can generalise like that & then tweak each one to fit perfectly. If you've got a lot of boxes to fit then that method soon becomes very tedious, and it becomes worth the time to do the maths & build them more precisely.

Just my  [2cents]

 

[atomicmike]

Thanks for the pointers. It does help get my head around the key pieces. And fortunately, I have a few projects to finish up before I can start messing with the Tandems, so I have plenty of time to think things through. I might just try mocking it up with some scrap material this weekend.

 

[Jonhilgen]

Jon,

No offence intended, but in my view you're over-simplifying it. If you only have a few boxes to fit, then you can generalise like that & then tweak each one to fit perfectly. If you've got a lot of boxes to fit then that method soon becomes very tedious, and it becomes worth the time to do the maths & build them more precisely.

Just my  [2cents]

Johnny, no offense taken.  But I'm confused.  Blum specs clearly (ok, somewhat clearly) state that when using 5/8 sides, you subtract 3/8 from the opening to get your drawer width, and when using  1/2" material you should subtract 5/8" from the opening to get your drawer width.  Sorry, I'm too lazy to translate to metric! (ok, not just lazy, but too ignorant too!)

I have ordered hundreds of solid wood detail drawers using this formula without fail.  Am I missing something?
Jon

 

[junk731]

As far a Tandem slides go there are different specs and measurements for US Tandem and European/Canadian Tandem. For the US specs go to: http://www.blum.com/us/en/05/31/10/index.php. Everything you need to know and relatively easy to understand terms.

John

 

[HowardH]

Knowing that my case was 14.5" inside measurements I simply made my boxes 1" less wide to allow for the half inch per slide.  I backed into it.  Next time I'll take an inch and a 1/16th to allow a little room.  Is this method problematic?  For the location of the slides, I placed them on a pair of templates that were 4" high and I just set them inside the case and the placed the slides on top of the templates and made sure the front of them were just ever so slightly behind the front edge of the case.  Nothing to it. 

 

[junk731]

Go with a 1/16" max or you'll have to shim the sides. I think as you have found, just going 1" makes for a tight fit. I always aim for a heavy 1/32".

John

 

[HowardH]

agreed.  experience is the best instructor.