I wish Festool made a 12" Kapex

It would be a heavy old beast and introduce more blade deflection.

I currently have a 12" Bosch Glide and it's wonderfully accurate, provided you understand how a 12" blade behaves vs a 10", but man it weighs as much as a small mountain. I bought it as a one saw for every occasion, both accurate and with large cut capacity, but the thing I've subsequently come to realise is when you're approaching the point where you need the capacity of a 12" saw the requirement for perfect cut accuracy reduces dramatically.

In hindsight I'd have been better off with a £400 generic design slider and a £200 non sliding mitre saw for portability/accuracy on smaller cuts. I'd have all bases covered and greatly reduce the occasions I need to move/transport all 34kg/75lbs of the Bosch.
 
bobfog said:
It would be a heavy old beast and introduce more blade deflection.

I currently have a 12" Bosch Glide and it's wonderfully accurate, provided you understand how a 12" blade behaves vs a 10", but man it weighs as much as a small mountain. I bought it as a one saw for every occasion, both accurate and with large cut capacity, but the thing I've subsequently come to realise is when you're approaching the point where you need the capacity of a 12" saw the requirement for perfect cut accuracy reduces dramatically.

In hindsight I'd have been better off with a £400 generic design slider and a £200 non sliding mitre saw for portability/accuracy on smaller cuts. I'd have all bases covered and greatly reduce the occasions I need to move/transport all 34kg/75lbs of the Bosch.

You can get perfect accuracy spinning a 12" blade.  All depends on the blade being used.  If you run thin kerf they'll deflect and flutter. It's kinda their thing.  Running heavier plate high quality blades makes deflection an almost non issue. I run standard kerf industrial blades designed for art framing.  They are tensioned and designed to specifically cut miters.  Beyond that it is the setup/tuning of the saw.  If you really want to get picky you can clock the blade in relationship to the arbor to cancel out runout. 

What many think is blade deflection on a 12" SCMS is more often than not machining tolerances on the saw itself.  More moving parts the more chances for something to run off.
 
With the same motor? or a different motor?
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was thinking the same thing.
 
Justinh, what brand and model of blade do you use that is specifically designed for art framing and tensioned to cut miters?

Thanks,

Len
 
But an overly heavy and thick blade and strain the tiny motors and brake on these scams. Even a thick blade can deflect if the motor is struggling. I have found the high quality thin kerf blades whether 10" and 12" able to cut with minimal deflection. I find more issues with poor arbor designs i.e. too small or poorly made causing runout and deflection from under powered motors. The apex does have a better arbor than the others, 5/8" for a 12" blade is just too small in my opinion. Most large table saws with 12" blades have a 1" arbor.
 
Just for the record, in case festool is listening, I'd buy a 12" kapex.  Never bothered to get one because they don't cut 5-1/4" base standing vertical.
 
I'm a kapex naysayer at times but in all honesty why would you not just lay the baseboard flat and bevel it? The bevel adjust on the kapex os great and I can get perfect bevels with it.
 
Nested crown capability. I have changed to doing taller base on the flat using the bevel and it works really well. But you can't beat the capability of a 12" when cutting crown nested.

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