Impact/ratchet

[VW mick]

Guys

I've been working on my camper (front suspension)

Think I'm getting old ..taking wheels of undoing large suspension bolts ect .some of them were hard work

Can anyone recommend maybe a cordless impact ..As I don't think it's the same as an impact we use on wood

 

[Cheese]

[member=32795]VW MICK[/member]
If you have compressed air available, I'd think about moving towards a pneumatic version. Especially since you're dealig with suspension components, most of which are on the large size and all of which are corroded/rusted. It's been my experience that the cordless models do just ok, but for rusted bolts you need some serious power.

 

[carlb40]

I haven't used those types, but i have seen a few people use the Milwaukee ones without complaint.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

If you have compressed air available, I'd think about moving towards a pneumatic version. Especially since you're dealig with suspension components, most of which are on the large size and all of which are corroded/rusted. It's been my experience that the cordless models do just ok, but for rusted bolts you need some serious power.

Even when you step up to the pneumatics, it should be noted that even they have different classes. I have a low-cost model from an auto parts store that is right at the limit for being usable. It's good for most fasteners, but is borderline for tight lugs, and underpowered for frame members. There's been a few jobs where I had to borrow a larger one to handle a K-member or even the axle nuts on CV joints.

 

[Birdhunter]

I'd go to a tire store and ask what impact wrench they use. Worse case would be to buy one that would prove to be inadequate and have to buy a second one.

 

[APRP]

I'd try milwaukee impact. I see the mechanics in our fleet departement with.them all the time.

 

[Mort]

I have a Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2" impact and it's more powerful than any 1/2" pneumatic I've used (and I used to work at a tire store). I use it at work to keep the screens on our gravel screener.

 

[Cheese]

Even when you step up to the pneumatics, it should be noted that even they have different classes. I have a low-cost model from an auto parts store that is right at the limit for being usable. It's good for most fasteners, but is borderline for tight lugs, and underpowered for frame members. There's been a few jobs where I had to borrow a larger one to handle a K-member or even the axle nuts on CV joints.

Ya Rick, and that's exactly my point. I have a Milwaukee V28 impact wrench (and I love Milwaukee stuff) rated for 325 ft# of torque. When I try to remove the wheels from my car that I torqued to 95 ft# with a Snap-on torque wrench, it just stalls out. I need to bring a breaker bar out to loosen up the lugs. Maybe the new M18 Milwaukee stuff works better, but for now I will defer to the pneumatic gear for serious use because it has a long history. I know that Chicago Pneumatic, Ingersoll Rand and Snap-On will get the job done.

 

[TelcoRandy]

Ingersoll Rand for the win
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ingersoll+rand+cordless+impact

 

[mwildt]

I have Ingersoll Rand Titanium 2135qtimax.  It's air and works great. Believe it has 780 ftlbs in reverse, don't quote me. This one just works!

 

[sae]

I'd go to a tire store and ask what impact wrench they use. Worse case would be to buy one that would prove to be inadequate and have to buy a second one.

I bet they use air, not cordless.

If you've gotten through life this far without needing one, you probably don't need the most awesome, bolt shearing tool. Find the one in your desired cordless platform and have at it. There are good ones from Hilti, Makita, Metabo, Bosch, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Ryobi, Ingersoll Rand, Craftsman, Hitachi, etc etc.

Also note that there are generally two classes (three if you count impact drivers, four if you count the 10.8/12v versions). There's usually a compact, that's around 3-4 lbs, and will do somewhere between 150 ft-lbs and 300 ft-lbs...and then there's the high torque class that will weigh about double that, and put out somewhere between 300 and 700 ft-lbs.

I don't even know how you guys measure torque in the UK though. Cubit-stone? Fathom-hundredweight?  [poke]

 

[demographic]

I'd go to a tire store and ask what impact wrench they use. Worse case would be to buy one that would prove to be inadequate and have to buy a second one.

I bet they use air, not cordless.

If you've gotten through life this far without needing one, you probably don't need the most awesome, bolt shearing tool. Find the one in your desired cordless platform and have at it. There are good ones from Hilti, Makita, Metabo, Bosch, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Ryobi, Ingersoll Rand, Craftsman, Hitachi, etc etc.

Also note that there are generally two classes (three if you count impact drivers, four if you count the 10.8/12v versions). There's usually a compact, that's around 3-4 lbs, and will do somewhere between 150 ft-lbs and 300 ft-lbs...and then there's the high torque class that will weigh about double that, and put out somewhere between 300 and 700 ft-lbs.

I don't even know how you guys measure torque in the UK though. Cubit-stone? Fathom-hundredweight? [poke]

We have a mix of foot pounds and Newton Metres.

 

[Kev]

METABO offer cordless up to 600 Nm

I actually wish I'd grabbed one of the Protool wrenches when they were still about [sad] but they weren't the most powerful from memory.

 

[jaguar36]

The Milwaukee 2763 1/2" Impact wrench would be the one I'd get.  It's rated for 1,100 ft-lbs of 'Nut-busting' torque, which should be plenty for removing any reasonably sized fasteners.  Even if they're pretty corroded that should still be able to get them off (or break the stud!).  Also if you've already got M18 batteries, the bare tool version is pretty cheap.  I like the friction ring ones better than the pin detents.