In-wall systainer racks and some pics of my almost finished shop

sgryd

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After quite some time I'm soon geting my wood shop finished. I'm not a pro, but that doesn't stop me from wanting the best. I also have the luxury to treat my shop-building as a nice project in it self. I'm in no hurry, but as the shop soon sees the light I'd like to share som pics with people who understand (the shop project is not one of my wifes favourite projects..)

It's a very small shop (10x20 feet), so I have to do everything to make it efficient. One half of the room will be for larger machines (bandsaw, planer/jointer, drill press, dust control). The other half is the Festool corner. Booth halfs will have in-wall systainer racks.

Here are som pics of the making of the systainer racks. I like playwood, birch in particular.

Routing a recess for the steel support
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Hard wax oiling..
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Centering the center piece while screwing it to the steel support
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At the top I centered with a couple of dominos.
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Trying the fit of the case in the wall and the fit of the systainers in the case =)
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Building pause for some unpacking
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Oiling the frame of the case before fitting it permanently. I put some dominos on the sides to help stabilizing the glue-up and to give the case an extra touch of "me". Yes, the case will protrude a couple of inches from the wall.
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I got a private message about sending the cutlists. Thought I'd better post it here, should anyone else be interested.

I have actually modeled the racks in Autodesk Inventor. Every dimension is parameter driven from an Excel file. If anyone is interested I'd happily send the files over. For now I'll post some PDF 2D drawings so I know everyone can open the files. Measurements are metric and language is Swedish. Please ask if anything needs translation. I also have the cut lists in Cut List Plus. I don't know if I'm able to save them as a file from Cut List. Does anyone know?

Here is how it should look like when it's completed:
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Some PDF drawings are attached as well.
 
Very nice, are those 350mm full extension slides? Do they allow to open the systainers? I ordered some last week for a similar project, in theory it should work.
 
Correct. I designed everything around 300mm sliders at first. Just in time I realized that I wouldn't be able to open the lid, so I went to my dealer and measured the sliders on a Festool Systainer Rack. Had to redesign some, but I couldn't change the hole in the wall. That's why the racks protrude some =)
 
seems like his band saw is new, so ill comment on mine. It's pretty good, but the table is rather short so it absolutely needs an outfeed table. The above table guide system on mine is not really aligned with the blade and can't be set right. Doesn't seem to hurt accuracy too much. Using DC is a necessity, though it's not the most effective.
All in all a decent tool for the money, cut quality depends greatly on the quality and sharpness of the blade. Ditch the Felder blades.
 
Timtool said:
seems like his band saw is new, so ill comment on mine. It's pretty good, but the table is rather short so it absolutely needs an outfeed table. The above table guide system on mine is not really aligned with the blade and can't be set right. Doesn't seem to hurt accuracy too much. Using DC is a necessity, though it's not the most effective.
All in all a decent tool for the money, cut quality depends greatly on the quality and sharpness of the blade. Ditch the Felder blades.

Thanks! Was Thinking of getting the bandsaw, and most definitely the jointer/planer. Maybe hold off on the bandsaw than.
 
Alan m said:
is that groove for some kind of tambor type door

I was wondering the same thing, just couldn't remember the name (and didn't want to post roll-up-slatty-thingy;)).
 
The grooves are for sliding doors. In Swedish they are called "jalusi".
Oh, I see now that the Swdish site I ordered from is also available in English. Seems like they are called "tambour".

Fanerami

I have a small space so I couldn't afford to have regular doors hanging out over the work space.

On the Hammer: I haven't had time to make the initial adjustment (wheel parallelity, table centering, table leveling). For sure I need other blades than those which came with the saw. The weld on those blades are terrible, and the cut is quite harch. I run the hamme machines on 3 phase (430 Volt). Works like a charm.
 
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