Three Piece Floating Credenza

[4nthony]

Wow. That stuff has crazy curls!
https://kitchencabinetkings.com/glossary/fiddleback/

It's why the devil wanted to win that fiddle... okay I'll log out now

First thing that came to mind was the Charlie Daniels Band, but in that song, the devil wanted a soul and his fiddle was made of gold.

What's the reference?

 

[PaulMarcel]

First thing that came to mind was the Charlie Daniels Band, but in that song, the devil wanted a soul and his fiddle was made of gold.

What's the reference?

Ah that was my mistaken reference. Mea culpa!

 

[4nthony]

Ah that was my mistaken reference. Mea culpa!

Ha. I had to google the lyrics to confirm. [cool]

 

[jimbo51]

White oak pores are filled with tyloses, not resin. He was wrong in the video.

 

[John T.]

Very nice!! This looks great!

 

[rst]

There's a excellent reason boat builders use white oak.

 

[peacefulandpatriotically]

Anthony gorgeous work on this piece...love the closeup shots showing off that white oak  . Also, I like those clamping "bridges" you made, simple and effective

 

[Packard]

https://screenshot-dump-monosnap.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/credenza/IMG_5955.png[/img]

Fitted to the panels. I wasn't paying attention and was following instructions from a different project and secured these at the top of the door, rather than in the middle. We'll see what happens with seasonal movement and how much of my reveal is lost at the bottom. [doh]

Finished battens with plugs, and screws in elongated holes holding the batten but hopefully not impeding wood movement.

Ouch. I got some tearout on a few of the dovetails. I'll go back and patch these (or not?) but fortunately, they are not visible from the front.

I used Osmo Raw matte on these and have been very happy with Osmo. Easy to apply and easy to buff out.

All done.

Lots of space for my daughter to stash her toys.

One thing I noticed about the "3rd board" (on top) was it had this darker section. I thought it was tape residue or something but it never sanded out.

Another one of my dovetail tear-outs at the bottom (and some screwy elongated holes).

The next plan is to make a smaller cabinet that will go above the TV.

Anyway, I've said this before in other threads but this is such a great community and I'm happy to be a part of it. Thanks to everyone who has commented on my posts when I've asked for assistance and for helping this hobbyist woodworker improve.

Cheers!
Anthony

edit for typos

Nice work.

I am of the opinion that the center- most three inches of a batten going across the grain, can be screwed and glued.  All the fasteners outboard of that center three inches has to make accommodations for the wood movement.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

[member=74278]Packard[/member] I wouldn't say wrong at all, but there are situations where you might want the movement to only go one way.
Shelves may be one. If you had a fixed hardwood shelf in the middle of a tall cabinet, to help support the sides, you might not want it to move foreword. (especially if it's an open unit, no doors.
You would trap it in a sliding dovetail, only gluing the front 2-3 inches. It stays consistent in the front, flush or not, and the movement goes to the back.

 

[Packard]

[member=74278]Packard[/member] I wouldn't say wrong at all, but there are situations where you might want the movement to only go one way.
Shelves may be one. If you had a fixed hardwood shelf in the middle of a tall cabinet, to help support the sides, you might not want it to move foreword. (especially if it's an open unit, no doors.
You would trap it in a sliding dovetail, only gluing the front 2-3 inches. It stays consistent in the front, flush or not, and the movement goes to the back.

I agree.  I was referencing the current images.  I should have said you can glue/screw 2” -3” in one location only on the cleats.  I would then mention that which ever location you use for one of the cleats should be repeated for all of the cleats or seasonal movement might turn the rectangular door into a trapezoidal door.

 

[Cheese]

Nice work.

I am of the opinion that the center- most three inches of a batten going across the grain, can be screwed and glued.  All the fasteners outboard of that center three inches has to make accommodations for the wood movement.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.

If the door was made to overhang the carcass then you want the door reveal to remain the same at the top of the door. You want any door growth to be at the bottom of the door where you will not easily see it. In that case, you'd pin/glue the batten to the top of the door and allow for movement only in the downward direction.

 

[Cheese]

Really nice job [member=75283]4nthony[/member] ...great design.  [thumbs up] [thumbs up]  I especially like the asymmetric placement of the door handles. I also like the finish, very simple but elegant. Something like this has been on my to-do list for about 5 years now...after seeing your results, I need to move it up a bit.  [big grin]  How many hours do you think you have in it?

Do you have more information on these? They'd be great for a storage area I'm doing in the loft.

[attachimg=1]

I really like the use of battens with solid wood doors. For the elongated holes used for movement, I'm considering using the 14 mm Domino so that I could use these covers to hide the screws.

[attachimg=2]

 

[4nthony]

Really nice job [member=75283]4nthony[/member] ...great design.  [thumbs up] [thumbs up]  I especially like the asymmetric placement of the door handles. I also like the finish, very simple but elegant. Something like this has been on my to-do list for about 5 years now...after seeing your results, I need to move it up a bit.  [big grin]  How many hours do you think you have in it?

I need to start keeping a work log because it would be an interesting stat to have. I'm really bad at estimating my time, but I'd guess maybe 60 - 80 hours of actual work? This is over the course of about 6 months. I tend to be pretty slow and methodical about everything. Sometimes I'll just go out to the garage and stare at something for an hour. I'm accomplishing things in my head but not necessarily making physical progress.

Do you have more information on these? They'd be great for a storage area I'm doing in the loft.

That is the Blum 295.1000.21 Drawer Front Adjuster. There's also a marking gauge for creating the dimple, Blum 65.2950.10 Drawer Front Adjuster Marker-Gauge

I really like the use of battens with solid wood doors. For the elongated holes used for movement, I'm considering using the 14 mm Domino so that I could use these covers to hide the screws.

That's a really great idea!

 

[4nthony]

If the door was made to overhang the carcass then you want the door reveal to remain the same at the top of the door. You want any door growth to be at the bottom of the door where you will not easily see it. In that case, you'd pin/glue the batten to the top of the door and allow for movement only in the downward direction.

In the reference video I watched to learn this, that was the scenario. He had inset doors with the overhang at the bottom and the battens were pinned at the top. I think in the back of my mind I knew that pinning my doors at the top was wrong, and I was in auto-pilot mode when I cut the holes in the batten. Some of my dovetails were on the tighter side and before cutting the holes, I remember thinking if I glued in the middle, I'd smear glue all the way up the dovetail.

Oh well, live and learn. I'll do it correctly in the next build

 

[Cheese]

Sometimes I'll just go out to the garage and stare at something for an hour.

That's what my wife accuses me of when I'm cooking dinner.  [big grin] [big grin]

60-80 hours is good to know, there are a lot of details to contend with especially the 1st time around.

 

[Michael Kellough]

If the door was made to overhang the carcass then you want the door reveal to remain the same at the top of the door. You want any door growth to be at the bottom of the door where you will not easily see it. In that case, you'd pin/glue the batten to the top of the door and allow for movement only in the downward direction.

In the reference video I watched to learn this, that was the scenario. He had inset doors with the overhang at the bottom and the battens were pinned at the top. I think in the back of my mind I knew that pinning my doors at the top was wrong, and I was in auto-pilot mode when I cut the holes in the batten. Some of my dovetails were on the tighter side and before cutting the holes, I remember thinking if I glued in the middle, I'd smear glue all the way up the dovetail.

Oh well, live and learn. I'll do it correctly in the next build

Why do you think pinning at the top was wrong?

If the dovetails are tight you don’t really need glue.

 

[Packard]

If the door was made to overhang the carcass then you want the door reveal to remain the same at the top of the door. You want any door growth to be at the bottom of the door where you will not easily see it. In that case, you'd pin/glue the batten to the top of the door and allow for movement only in the downward direction.

In the reference video I watched to learn this, that was the scenario. He had inset doors with the overhang at the bottom and the battens were pinned at the top. I think in the back of my mind I knew that pinning my doors at the top was wrong, and I was in auto-pilot mode when I cut the holes in the batten. Some of my dovetails were on the tighter side and before cutting the holes, I remember thinking if I glued in the middle, I'd smear glue all the way up the dovetail.

Oh well, live and learn. I'll do it correctly in the next build

Why do you think pinning at the top was wrong?

If the dovetails are tight you don’t really need glue.

I disagree.  Dovetails are amongst the strongest joints in woodworking because they provide a very large glue area.  The mechanical strength is only secondary (and probably a distant second) in terms of strength.  They are easy to clamp—another advantage (if you are using glue).

My friend purchased used a kitchen island. All the drawers were dovetailed, and likely assembles on-site by the installer.  The joints were glued with hot glue.  And all the drawers were falling apart.  I had to use a heat gun and a small chisel to remove all the hot glue.  I then reassembled using Woodworkers III.

Where was all that “no glue required” strength?

I have no data to support this.  It is my opinion.  I believe I am correct.  And I will continue to use glue.

 

[Michael Kellough]

[member=74278]Packard[/member]  maybe you lost rack of the subject, (or maybe I did if we’re not talking about the doors) the dovetails here are not holding drawers together, they’re keeping stiffeners snug to panels to simply keep the panels flat. Because they are perpendicular to the grain of the panel they must be unglued (except in one small spot but even that is unnecessary) to allow for seasonal movement.

 

[4nthony]

Why do you think pinning at the top was wrong?
If the dovetails are tight you don’t really need glue.

I used a small amount of glue at the top, but you're probably right in that I didn't need glue as the screws are more than enough to keep the battens pinned. Most of the battens are pretty snug.

As for the pinning of the battens, the way I understand it is...

- When pinned at the top, movement tends to go towards the bottom. The reveal at the top will remain consistent but the bottom will fluctuate with the movement.

- When pinned in the middle, movement goes up and down. This would keep the top and bottom reveals somewhat consistent with each other.

I'm potentially looking at very tight bottom reveals when movement occurs.

I had asked about wood movement and using battens and suggestions were made to use plywood or veneered MDF as it is much more stable for inset doors. The video I referenced throughout this build also mentioned the same.

I really wanted to make the doors out of hardwood with a continuous grain so I chose quartersawn wood.

Finger's crossed!

 

[Packard]

[member=74278]Packard[/member]  maybe you lost rack of the subject, (or maybe I did if we’re not talking about the doors) the dovetails here are not holding drawers together, they’re keeping stiffeners snug to panels to simply keep the panels flat. Because they are perpendicular to the grain of the panel they must be unglued (except in one small spot but even that is unnecessary) to allow for seasonal movement.

You are correct.  My mind switched to dovetail joints, when the discussion was about sliding dovetails.

I made a cabinet for a store fixture once, and the doors were made of 3/4” thick pine bead board.  No rails or stiles, just the bead board running vertical.  I glued and screwed the batten in the center, and then glued and screwed short blocks with a 45 degree rip on one edge.  I lost contact with the store owner.  I assumed it stayed together.