Inherited Dad's stuff.... no idea how to use it.

As a follow-on topic, and a matter of etiquette,  I'd like to create a thread for stumbling forward on my wife's first demand my first project. Get some feedback on what I'm doing wrong, different ways to do something, etc.

Is that something appropriate for this forum? Best to start a new thread?

[attachimg=1]

Looks easy enough. I'm new here at Ft. Gordon (Augusta), so it'll take me some time to source sheet goods and lumber. Might prototype in HD pine for practice... Dad also had an old Leigh jig (D4) I've been reading about.

Thoughts?

- John

 

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Sapper said:
As a follow-on topic, and a matter of etiquette,  I'd like to create a thread for stumbling forward on my wife's first demand my first project. Get some feedback on what I'm doing wrong, different ways to do something, etc.

Is that something appropriate for this forum? Best to start a new thread?

[attachimg=1]

Looks easy enough. I'm new here at Ft. Gordon (Augusta), so it'll take me some time to source sheet goods and lumber. Might prototype in HD pine for practice... Dad also had an old Leigh jig (D4) I've been reading about.

Thoughts?

- John

Hey John,

Let's break it down into parts (using pine pr poplar is a great way to start by the way... much cheaper!)

For the image you posted... you will need:
~1x? for the sides
~1x2 or 3 for the face frames
~same 1x? for the shelves/top
~extra 1x? for the decorative bits in the upper corners and underneath
~long dowels for the plate rack
~some crown and some wainscot (could be smooth back 1/4" ply if you want to save a bit)

tools:
~ your TS can rip and crosscut any of the parts
~ Jigsaw for the curvy bits
~ if you do fixed shelves, you might want to invest in a pocket hole machine (Kreg) to do the joinery on the cheap.  You would still need it for the rest of the carcass.
~ Pin hole jig if you want to make the inner shelves adjustable.  You can also use that for the dowels that make the plate rack.
~ Nail gun (preferred) on the crown install.  You can use glue and hand nails, but it is a PITA.
~ and of course sandpaper, bits and all the other accessories needed to get from start to finish.

Hope this helps!

Cheers.  Bryan.

 
Sapper-John,

Bryan provided a good run down.

The lower plinths or what ever they are called really finish off the upper unit in a thoughtful and 'ascetic' manner.
They also foul with an coffee maker, margarita machine or anything else of high importance on the counter.
I would not nail them on.
 
That cab looks pretty straight fwd. Its a box with some add ons the plinths at the bottom are added. the rest is a face frame with added things. 2 ways to attach the plinths and the other bits. I would domino them. since the piece is painted you could pocket hole the then full the PH and paint..

The bead board backing can be bought and cut to size with the stuff you already own.

It is doable.

Step one is making the cab(box).

erock has a very good set of videos on festool tv on making cabinets the festool way.

 
Sapper said:
I appreciate the responses, help, and sentiments.

I do have a few handtools (chisels, planes, saws) that I can use with some proficiency - but spending $500 on a new vacuum or job site saw is, sadly, a dream. It did strike me this morning that (and please don't ban me for the thought), I could sell the pile of Festool and buy a bandsaw (I do have my own non-Festool chop\circular saws, router, planer, etc).

That said, I'll see if I'm smart\talented enough to do some basic operations on the Festool gear before I panic and run to ebay.

I'll keep digging in the pile, pull out the stuff that looks green, and perhaps post a picture. I didn't know about the clamps for the guide, I can see how that can be handy on a rip cut.

But something I can't wrap my mind around - again, thinking of a table saw - is it possible to take a 2x4 and rip out a 1x1 or 1/2 x 1/2 strip from it? Is it easily repeatable - or reasonably easy? I currently don't have a need for it - just wondering. (I've printed out Jerry Work's MFT guide, but haven't read it yet).

For those who asked, I'm at Fort Gordon (Augusta, GA), but living across the river in Aiken, SC.

I'll try and start a dish rack prototype tonight - standby with bandaids.

[member=18233]jbasen[/member] - My Dad was born and raised in Pocatello; some family is still there. As a kid, I fished the reservoirs with my Grandpa and visited craters and the ice caves. Good memories.

Again, in your collective debt.
- John

I'm surprised (a little) that no one responded to your question, as far as I could tell- about the table saw ripping down a 2x4. I do realize this is a Festool forum, however I will chime in this one time on a few things. Firstly- DO NOT SELL THE TOOLS (in my opinion). Yes, I know money can be tight, yes, I know they- above all can bring in the highest dollar for used tools, but also- they will be the tools that will last you. There are many ways around getting other tools you might need at bargain basement prices- and you don't need amazing tools to do great stuff.

One guy that comes to mind is Steve Ramsey who has a HUGE youtube channel called Woodworking for Mere Mortals. Just google it and you'll find it no issues, and he probably has a blog as well. Another source for learning stuff is the Wood Whisperer, another guy who uses higher end tools, festool etc, but he focuses more on the teaching aspects as well for joinery and everything as well. Specifically Ramsey focuses on bringing woodworking to the less knowledgeable and to show what can be done with a small selection of tools. On an even smaller scale- on youtube, BeachBumLivin also makes due with very few tools and has a few worthwhile projects that are great to get your hands on. He shows that you can really get by with a minimal amount of tools as well, even if they're cheapo Ryobi tools.

That said, I really would recommend you save the Festools from sale, and look all over at auctions, estate sales, garage sales, yard sales, swap meets, etc. My friend went to a swap meet and got a portable contractor table saw deawalt, brand new (like a $500 saw) for 1-200, because someone's husband passed on and she was selling his tools, having no need for them. And believe me- that is a great lil table saw. If you look up Ron Paulk on youtube as well, he does a lot of fine wood work remodels with a custom built workbench that uses a cheaper portable contractor's table saw as well- and he uses a lot of Festool stuff too.

Now- one little thing I wanted to mention- yes you can rip down a 2x4 to 1x1 or even a smaller size. Yes, you can freehand it. No, I do NOT recommend it, especially depending on what safety features your table saw might be lacking. But yes! There are ways around that. You CAN build jigs!!!! There are sooooo many out there, just gotta google table saw jig for ripping down 2x4's or something. I haven't looked for that, but I'm sure it's out there. Another great source for cheap tools would be amazon (sometimes) or Harbor Freight. Harbor freight would be great for getting bigger tools you might not have for real cheap for starting out as well when you are forced to a tight budget. Just consider taking a respirator into that store... Anyone who has been in one knows the wonderful Chinese rubber VOC off-gassing in there...  [eek]

I just did a check on the tools you do have- the router, the track saw, and the sander- and you wouldn't believe how useful all of those can be. I spent 10-20 years doing woodwork and apartment remodel/repair work in the family business without a tracksaw, got my first one (cheaper alternative because I couldn't afford the festool, so I got the Makita) and man. It saves TONS of time when it's operation is best. I still remember the first time I had a use for it. Putting up a simple cedar fence between two of our properties to keep people off the property from digging in the trash- one building wall wasn't totally plumb (also- if you buy levels, try try try to get a Stabila or Sola level. They are the BEST. I don't know about Sola but they are often compared to Stabila but I digress..) and I was easily able to scribe where I needed to cut a straight (diagonal) line down the cedar board. Well- normally, with the table saw, the 6' length would 1- be a real problem because I would need another board to rig a jig up for the long table saw cut, and 2, would require many trips back and forth to my house from the property if I didn't cut it perfect the first time). I grabbed the track saw, 2 measurement marks, and cut and had it perfect in 1/4 of the time I would have spent.

In regards to the Mrs.' request, I would say that's a good starting point too. You can learn a lot from a project like that. Another good youtube person to look into is AskWoodMan. He does a series on plywood boxes that can translate into Kitchen cabinets, or desks of all things and he goes through a great process over dozens of videos, again- a festool guy as well, but he also uses other stuff, but he's another guy all about making things easier on people who are learning.

I would ask- do you have any air tools- because those also would help a lot with any wood work you'll do (especially on a cabinet like that). The big orange box store often sells a good combo set of a Porter Cable red pancake compressor and 2-3 finish nail guns for a good price, and again (although I would not go this route personally for air nailers..) Harbor freight. The Porter Cable nailers and compressor worked like champs for me until I got into better quality Senco nailers and other stuff. Additionally, as Bryan said- hand nailing is a PITA but, you can always fashion an easier method. Buy some cheap clamps, clamp on the mouldings/casings/trim (whatever you want to call them), and pre-drill a small hole, then use a hammer and a nail set with small finish nails. It would take a few more minutes, maybe more depending on your hand eye coordination, but it's doable without air guns. They just make things easier.
 
John,

The Leigh D4 is an excellent Dovetail Jig.  You can add the VRS Vacuum and Router Support jig (by Leigh) https://www.leighjigs.com/vrs.php and connect it to the Festool CT dust extractor.  It won't get 100% of the dust/chips but, it does a great job and makes cutting quick dovetails a pleasure.

Jack
 
As others have mentioned, go out and buy your mother a new vacuum for her to use on the floors.  You really can't replace the value of the Festool dust extractors when it comes to shop work.  That and the cost of the bags will kill her budget.  It'd be a crying shame to see it get wasted not being used in a shop.

Given what a Festool costs you've got a lot of leeway on what floor vacuum to get for her.

Sorry to hear about your Dad.  I had to clear out my father-in-law's shop.  I'd like to think he'd be glad to know his tools are carrying on being used by me and his grandson. 
 
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