Installing a Farmhouse/Apron Sink with solid surface counter tops.

[chrisrosenb]

I am working on a kitchen j

 

[tbellemare]

You should talk to Steve Bace, the trainer in Vegas...

Tom

 

[craig feuerzeig]

Inside corners need a 1 in. radius... With any seam offset from the corner.  Build up the thickness (assuming 1 1/2") with 1" blocks on the flat, making a sandwich, then you can butt your drop edge into those so that no seam is on the corner... A potential weak spot for a crack to start.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I've got nothing to add on the topic, but it's good to see you posting again.  I'd love to see pictures of the project. 

 

[mastercabman]

chris,
What kind of solid surface are you using?

 

[mastercabman]

chris,
What kind of solid surface are you using?

I am using Formica Solid Surface material.

I never used that stuff before,but what i would do is make a template after the cabinet and sink are set.Then use the template for the fabricating and cutting.

 

[junk731]

Chris have you done any solid surface before. Are planning on doing everything onsite or prefab the countertop in your shop and transport to your jobsite. Personally I only do 6-8 solid surface jobs a year and have not done a sink opening like the one pictured. I prefer to prefab in my shop. My approach would be to do all your normal edge buildup and reinforcing edge for the sink in your shop. Along with this do your edge routing and sand to 320. Make a template for the sink cut large enough that you can clamp it to your top. Transport to job and set countertop on spacer supports supports. Router sink opening and do finish cleanup sanding. Remove spacers and lower sink into place hopefully with at least one other person to minimize stress on thin edge.

John

 

[Dane]

I did one like that in my own kitchen last year.  I just set the counter and used the sink itself as the template with a bottom bearing bit in the of 1400.  Worked fine, a little messy.  Jus make sure any seams are somewhere a few inches away from the cutout.

 

[junk731]

I would be interested in what your solution was to reinforcing the cutout and install when you get the project done. Like I said, I haven't had to install one of those sinks but there is always tomorrows customer. Good luck.

John

 

[Dane]

I did one like that in my own kitchen last year.  I just set the counter and used the sink itself as the template with a bottom bearing bit in the of 1400.  Worked fine, a little messy.  Jus make sure any seams are somewhere a few inches away from the cutout.

 

[Dane]

Not sure why that posted twice.  Sorry.

 

[Oldwood]

Hi,
I don't do counters I do kitchens but all the tops we have had installed like this have the back piece seamed into either side. Too hard to move other wise without breaking. You could lay it on and cut onsite though. Most of the counters we have installed are stone but even the solid surface we see are done this way.

FWIW,
Gerry

 

[Sparktrician]

I would be interested in what your solution was to reinforcing the cutout and install when you get the project done. Like I said, I haven't had to install one of those sinks but there is always tomorrows customer. Good luck.

John

+1.  Due to the slim section remaining of the material, I would think that I'd rather do the cutout on-site, just to minimize the opportunity for breakage of the section behind the sink, even with reinforcement in the build-up.  Like Tom, I'd recommend having a brief chat with Steve Bace. 

[smile]

 

[Tim Morris]

Chris that looks very nicely done as your work always does. [thumbs up]

TIM

 

[Sparktrician]

Good decision on the seam location, and very nicely executed, as always, Chris. 

[smile]

 

[Wooden Lungs]

Over here they are commonly called belfast sinks! Well the style you are showing is very similar and the cut is usually done centre of the widht on the top of the sink as per your photo. Lovely work Chris and really like the units. Thanks for posting pics. Last one I did was a bamboo worktop which is a mare on cutters but looked great and I borrowed a jig to cut drain grooves in the worktop too. Worked well and the client was happy.

Have to say I do prefer the synthetic over the solid wood worktops only because clients never seem to maintain solid tops with oil etc. Worktops get so much abuse day to day that something hardwearing and litttle or zero maintenance is preferable. I like tiled worktops but have not worked on many jobs that used it. Last one did was a kitchen made from a reclaimed floor! in an old barn from the 1850s. It had part marble top for food prep and the rest was tiled with an oak trim around the front edge. Did look good in the end but making the units from the old floor boards was tough. But thats what the client wanted and the budget was open ended.

 

[tiralie]

The cabinets & tops are installed. The farmhouse sink worked out great.

Chris:
Cabinets and top look great!
Are you putting a valence under the top cabs to hide the lights?
I meant to mention in your other post that I really like the look of those beaded face frames.
Tim

 

[tiralie]

Thank you Tim, my wife wants cabinets like these now.

No kidding, so would I!

You do not see the lights when looking at the cabinets at a normal angle. They are only 7/8" thick.

Makes sense. I thought they were the thicker older type lights. I have valences on my kitchen cabinets but always thought they looked like an add on vs. a design decision. I really like the embedded LED type that John installes.
Tim
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