Installing like 10,000 small dowells in a floor

PA floor guy said:
They are methodically placed every board, every 16 inches.  Two next to each other.  I was gonna cut up a few hundred, then taper them with a bench top sander, then one guy pounding them in, and the next guy zipping them flush with a multi master.  I'm afraid counter sinking would add another step to what's going to suck regardless.

Tapering them with a bench top sander would be a big pain. I'd go with something like this:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32280&cat=1,180,42240,53317

A reaming bit, a pencil sharpener and some dowel. Easy to make and use. You're done in a flash and really cheaply I might add.
 
1/8" holes?
Seems like very small holes.Why not fill them with an epoxy or some kind of hard putty? Or did i miss something?
 
The HO wants the look of the dowels, plus I'm using a product that does not work well with filler, Rubio. There are some great ideas here.  My favorite is the lee valley sharpener.  I'm looking into that right now. Thanks.    Sam
 
I assume, and hope, that your customer will pay you by the hour for this.

Assume each patch will take 30 seconds, even with production methods:

cutting dowel stock to length (about 1-1/2" each to be able to feed each into the sharpener)
sharpening each dowel
putting a spot of glue on each
tapping in place
trimming the excess
sanding

At that rate, each 1000 holes will take a little over 8 hrs. before you even get to sanding and re-finishing.

Even using filler would still take about half that long, I think.
 
PA floor guy said:
The HO wants the look of the dowels, plus I'm using a product that does not work well with filler, Rubio. There are some great ideas here.  My favorite is the lee valley sharpener.  I'm looking into that right now. Thanks.    Sam

Well that makes it doable, since they don't need to be hidden.

Seth
 
Yes, he has already told me that whatever it takes, it takes.  Like I said, he is a great customer. I have done quite a few floors and staircases for him already.  So where can I actually get this dowel sharpener
 
There is an old addage that goes like this:  If you can't hide it, show it off.

I would plug each hole with a contrasting plug (ebony if you can get it).

The most spectacular wood floor I ever saw was an oak floor with two ebony plugs at the end of every board.
 
Yes, I have done quite a few of those dark peg jobs, they look good. I believe were gonna go the sharpener route.  Where do I buy one though. 
 
How do you remove the  Hobnails without damaging the floor? or do they come out easy? Or can you puch them in?

Think the filler idea might look a bit nasty [tongue] white Oak  plugs would be my prefered option or a darker contrasting wood but the wife would have to sanction that one LOL.

Do they  have any of the unused flooring left in store????

If so you could use this to cut your wooden plugs from and it would colour match really well.

I would suggest doing a sample piece for them (Or her) to look at. So you could have several options to choose from.

I would use a portable drill stand with a standard spur wood bit to drill out the holes. Also I would glue fine sandpaper to its base to stop it slipping on the floor as I was drilling. I would probably not consider a router for this task because of the damage it would potentially cause boring the plug holes.

I would use a router set up  to trim the tops of the plugs and cut the plugs from your chosen material though, because that is all very laborious.

Could you post some before and after pics??? also you may need some new knees after that job ;D
 
The hobnails should just be driven in a little further where required.

Peter
 
The lee valley thing is just a reaming bit, the instructions show using a standard pencil sharpener to sharpen the dowels.  So just use a pencil sharpener if you want to try it that way.  You could also probably just take the tiniest bit off of the dowel end and drive it in, even oak dowels at 1/8" will flex a little.  Like just rub the end against a sanding block then tap it in.  Like you were planning I think, I would buy a bunch of dowels then cut them into 10" or so,  drive them all in, flush trim them all then resharpen the end. 

Hmm with 1/8" you can probably use snips or something to trim close to flush, and that would hopefully create enough bevel or whatever to the end.

Don't understand the patchmaker or routing holes suggestions at all.  You have a bunch of (assuming) properly sized holes already, and you can buy 1/8" dowels...  I would just go at it and work out the fastest workflow system.  I bet the floor will look awesome though.  End grain or some kind of subtle contrast seems fine given that no matter how carefully you select the wood for patches, there is no way that 10,000 will be invisible.
 
Guys,
  Right now I'm only doing the area where the hobnails were not installed yet, only the holes were drilled.  The hobnail removal is the next part. 
 
PA floor guy said:
Guys,
  Right now I'm only doing the area where the hobnails were not installed yet, only the holes were drilled.  The hobnail removal is the next part. 

Hobnail removal? Wow!
Or can you do as Peter suggests and just drive them deeper?

Please post some pics of how this all works out. I think a lot of us are a little overwhelmed thinking about what all is involved.
 
i think you will need some kind of depth guide with that tapered bit. the further down you go the wider the hole will be.
i think one of those cheapo drill presss atachments for a corded drill would work great.  you might have to turn the drill back around behind the base and put a weigh on it it the bit wont go through the hole in the base.

i dont think a pencil sharpener will hold up to alll that sharpening.
my guess is about 30 dowels before its useless. pencils are made with really cheap crappy soft wood , these dowels will be good quality wood

i would get a disk sander and clamp a fence at the angle , then rotate the dowel along the fence . i would put it on top of the vac and use the vac for two jobs (drilling and dowel tapering.

i think one of those tools for cutting the ends of arcitraves for floors to gounderneed would work great for this job.
i would use a full length dowel for each hole . when its fitted use the above tool to cut them off. it can be adjusted up and down to leave a bit  for sanding
i think the way i would do it would be
have 2 people working. first one is drilling and second one is sanding the dowels and fitting them.  when the first person is finished drilling they go back to the start of the row and start cutting off the dowels
 
I have got some great response via this site.  I now have a great plan ready to go, starting tmrw actually. I'm gonna try the pencil sharpener at first, but on standby, I will have an edger on it's side hooked up to my big DCS. I always do this when I am filling cable holes in floors.  Just never have done 10k of them.  Should be a lot of fun. I have all 3/16 dowels, they will be slightly tapered, and then tapped in with a nip of glue.  Can't go real far down either.  There's radiant heat installed as well...  Fun.fun......
 
UPDATE
I started the pegging today, and got a great system down.  I ended up having a pencil sharpener, that goes into a drill. So I had a guy just tapering dowels, and 1 guy tapping them in, and another guy following behind sawing them off with a flush cut saw. It worked awesome.  We ended up doing around 5k of them today for sure.  Made huge strides, and we will be sanding by tmrw at some point.  What a process...  Thanks to everyone involved.      Sam
 
Well like I said, I have no clue how to upload pics.  Anyone that is that interested, I will shoot you a picture message. I realize seeing is believing, but come on, it's not like I said Bigfoot is the homeowner. Let me know if you want a pic via phone.    Sam
 
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