Integral Table with help from Festool

cflansbaum

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Joined
Jun 17, 2007
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161
After many delays, I finally finished a table I've been working on for my wife's office.  I'm pretty happy with how it came out and many of my festools helped.  Specifically:

Used the circle cutting hack that I posted about earlier to cut the round table top.

Used my  OF 1400 router for cutting the space for the inlays (in the top and legs).

But where I'm not sure what I would have done without a festool, I used the domino for the joinery between the shelves and the legs.  I don't think you could make a smaller joint using a domino, and I guess there would be a few alternatives, but they would be alot of work.

Anyway, thought I'd share!

Carl
 
It looks great. I like the contrasting color.
How did you attach the top to the leg?

Emmanuel
 
Cark -

That table is stunningly beautiful!

For my information, could you briefly describe your previous woodworking experience? I'm a newbie, and I just curious as to whether something like this could be possible in my future someday, or did I need to start with a master teacher 40 years ago?

There is no right or wrong answer, of course, but this information would put the project in some perspective for me, and I'd guess other newbies as well.

Wow!

Ed Gallaher
 
thanks for the comments guys...

I used figure 8s to attach the top.

Ed,
Previous experience... well about 2 years ago I decided to take on renovating our home and realized I could outfit a shop (before I knew how much festools cost...) with the money I would save building my own cabinets, etc... I started making a few pieces for the shop and found I had a real knack for it.  Now I pretty much do it with all my free time and already have a couple of paying projects scheduled.  I'm on a 3 year plan to transition from my current career (which I don't enjoy, but pays well) to designing and creating furniture.  FYI, I'm taking my first "class" next summer up at the Inside Passage school near Vancouver. 

So, I don't see why you couldn't do similar!

Carl
 
Nice Job Carl

You do have a knack for furniture design.

Which course are you talking at the Inside passage? When you come up this way let me know and maybe we can meet up with Mirko and maybe Carey for a lunch or coffee

Cheers
Dan Clermont
 
Hey Dan,

Thanks!  I'm going to take the veneers and curves class - june 16 - 20.  Definitely would be into meeting up with you guys, lets keep in touch.

Carl
 
Carl -

Thanks for the informative reply. Your background certainly brings something like this within the realm of possibility for mere mortals. OTOH, Edgar Martinez made hitting look easy, too, so I'm not taking your skills and natural talent lightly. (What a beautiful swing he had . . . ).

I am really enjoying seeing the examples of others' work, from beginners' first projects to the amazing first class work by lifelong professionals. I can't wait to get our previous house sold so I can turn my attention toward our new house, and my growing collection of Festools.

Ed

 
Wow Carl!  That table is awesome!  I know it is a lot to ask...but could you detail how the process went from start to "finish" on how you built it?  I am fairly new to my Festool tools...have the router, saw, domino, MFT (getting MFS) and would love to build this table for "trainng myself" I love the soft corners all the way around...freehand with a roundover on router table??  Tapered legs?  How did you register the dominos on the legs and shelves?  Did you use the router slide for the inlays?  Just fantastic!
 
as requested....

First of all I spent a great bit of time designing and figuring out all the dimensions using SketchUp.  While my final product never perfectly matches this, it really helps give me a sense of the piece before a single cut is made.  I made this table for my wife's office, so I was able to show her a couple of ideas and modify them until she was happy with the initial design...

The legs were cut out of 6/4 stock cherry down to final dimensions of 1 1/4" square (no taper).  While in this state I laid out the position of the domino mortises and plunged them out.  I also rough cut out the top "cradle" brackets for the top on the band saw.  Using my OF 1400 router and the edge guide I used a 1/4 bit to rout out the dados for the bubinga inlay.  This was a difficult to do on such narrow stock, but I did it on my MFT with clamping cawls and the festool clamping elements.  After this I rounded over the edges with a 1/8" bit on the router table.  I smoothed out the top cradle brackets with files, rasps and sandpaper.  I used left over scrap to make inlays of ~ 1/8 in thickness and glued them into the dados I routed out.  I used a forstner bit to drill out an area in each cradle bracket area for a figure 8 connector.

The top was made up of 3 boards edge glued together and cut square.  While in this state, I used my OF 1400 router and guide rail adapter with the guide rail on my MFT to route two perpendicular dados 1/4 deep for the top inlay.  I then made a template out of 1/4" mdf for the center section inlay.  I used this to cut a piece of 1/4"+ cherry out on the bandsaw and sanded the curves with my oscillating sander.  When I was happy with this, I traced the outline of the finished piece onto the table top and freehand routed out the bulk of the material.  I then used chisels, rasps and sandpaper to match the curves with the inlay piece.  The other inlay pieces where pretty much strait forward as they are all square.

Once I had all the inlays glued in place, I leveled out the top with hand scrapers and then used my RS2 for final flattening.  At this point I flipped the board over and using the circle cutting jig I detailed in an earlier post, cut the top into the circle diameter I desired.  I rounded over both sides with a 1/4" roundover bit.

The shelves were also made of 3 boards edge glued up.  Each was cut square to the exact dimension to fit between the legs.  I then laid out and plunged the domino mortises.  I then made a template of 1/4" MDF of the same size and laid out exactly where the legs would join.  From here I drew out the concave curves between the legs.  I then rough cut these curves on the bandsaw and sanded then to final smoothness with the oscillating sander.  I double sided taped this template to each shelf and then rough cut out the stock on the bandsaw.  Then using a spiral cut bit with a guide bearing on the router table I smoothed out the curves.  I then used the 1/4 roundover bit to round over these curves.

Because the legs have 1/8" roundovers on the edges, I had to do some blending to do where the concave curves of the shelves met the legs.  You can see this in the second pic above.  I used rasps, files and the oscillating sander for this.

At this point I sanded everything and glued the dominos in the legs.

As a side note, I then spend about a month setting up test boards and trying all types of finishing combinations as I was getting overwhelmed with finishing information and wanted to try some myself, but this is another story...

...so I finally decided on a finish of 2 coats of 1# cut garnet shellac (with a few drops of medium brown dye added), 2 coats of oil (I used General Finishes Seal-A-Cell) sanded with 400grit between and 4 coats of Daly's ClearFin (a water based Polyurethane/acrylic clear finish -  3 coats of gloss and a final coat of matte) sanded in between with 600grit.

After this I dry fitted everything together, taped around all the joinery and then glued the legs to the shelves.  I then set in the top and marked where the holes for screws for the figure 8s needed to be.  I drilled these and then screwed the top to the legs.

I think that's it.  I'm sure this isn't the exact order, but I hope it give you the general idea.
 
Thanks for taking the time to do that post.  It's quite helpful.

What wood are the shelves and top?
 
Carl

Thank you so much for posting your construction technique and process.  I truly love that table and hope to make one like it.  I got sidetracked in a lot of other endeavors so I didn't get back to you after my request and for that I apologize!  One thing I like about the table is the finish and the way the endgrain matches the tops.  Did you sand differently on the sides of the top and shelves? 

Have you ever used the MFS system?  I do not have it (YET) but was wondering if it would have been helpful in this project in any way. 

I read that you have a 3 yr plan to transition out of a job that you do not like...that is exactly what my plans are as well.  I have been setting up shop for quite some time now as my time (and wallet) permits.  It is encouraging to see someone doing the same.  Keep up the good work...I am sure you will make it!

Barry
 
Hey Guys...

thanks for the comments -- I've been a little crazy the past few months with a number of things and am now just getting back to involvement in FOG.  I've got some new projects to share and just have to get the pics ready.  Thanks for the encouragement Barry - starting next month I go to half time and then we are going to move so that I can build a real shop and pursue the plan.

I'll put the sketch-up plan and address the other question later -- we've got sun here in the PNW so I must go outside!!!

carl
 
Barry --  I haven't used the MFS yet -- been intrigued, but haven't pulled the trigger yet.  Not sure if it would have helped.  I did sand the endgrain of the cherry legs to 2 grits higher (400 vs 240) and that did seem to help.  ( I also did this on a cherry headboard which I'll eventually get around to posting about and it really worked well)  I didn't do it on the sides of the bubinga top or shelves though...

I'm attaching the sketchup pic...

c.
 
Ah!!  How cool!  Do you have the Sketchup file??  That would save me tons for the drawing!
 
woodgeek said:
Hey Dan,

Thanks!  I'm going to take the veneers and curves class - june 16 - 20.  Definitely would be into meeting up with you guys, lets keep in touch.

Carl

Carl,
Are you sure you don't mean you are teaching the curves and veneers class? ;) ;D
 
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