ipe deck

[b_m_hart]

I need to sand and poly a new deck.  It's all ipe, should I just do a couple of quick sanding passes, then poly it?  Is there a range of grits that's usually best to stay within while sanding? 

 

[w802h]

If it's newly milled IPE you may find that you get sticker marks when you go to finish it.  It's not going to rot, you may want to let it season. 

 

[b_m_hart]

It's been in place for 4 or 5 months at this point - it seemed like it was time to get to work on it.

 

[amt]

There are not many finishes that will stay on Ipe.  I would suggest starting with the penetrating oil like Waterlox first.

 

[Scott B.]

There are not many finishes that will stay on Ipe.  I would suggest starting with the penetrating oil like Waterlox first.

Agree. There aren't many finishes that will stay on ipe. The best bet is to smooth talk one into staying IN it.

Here are some tips: http://topcoatreview.com/2011/06/ipe-deck-finish-5-things-not-to-do/

 

[tjbnwi]

Another vote for no coating, just oil.

Than again the coating may just peel off in one sheet making it easy to apply the oil latter.

Tom

 

[Kevin D.]

I've been researching a lot on Ipe for our deck to be buit next summer and oil is it, wipe on and wipe off once a year or so.

 

[Walk On Wood]

I've worked with Ipe a bunch. This is an outside deck, correct? Exposed to the elements? I would recommend Sikkens penetrating finish. (I forget the name of the actual product, i believe it is Sikkens followed by 3 letters)

 

[b_m_hart]

I've worked with Ipe a bunch. This is an outside deck, correct? Exposed to the elements? I would recommend Sikkens penetrating finish. (I forget the name of the actual product, i believe it is Sikkens followed by 3 letters)

Yes, the back deck.  I've got about 213498723409287340987 things on the to-do list still for the "new" place, but I need to get around to this sooner rather than later I think.

 

[Kevin D.]

Think about it.  Ipe is 3 to 10 times the hardness of maple.  Maple is a hard enough to get any penetration, Ipe is a dog.  I'm not the expert here, but solid coatings are way more difficult to deal witrh in maintenance than an annual oil application I would think. 

Just sayin' I've yet to read that anything other than a specific oil for Ipe is anything that should be used every year or two depending on specific wera/tear/sunlight issues.  Please somebody who TRULY knows their SHEET rhyme in please.  I'd like to know a bonafide truth as well.  So far what I've read numerous times seems to say that oil is the way to deal with Ipe properly versus actaul coatings.

 

[Walk On Wood]

Actually, its about 2 1/2 times as hard.  Janka scale to verify: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test. On floors, i have coated roughly 20,000' of Ipe with absolutley no issues using Conversion Varnish (Glitsa/Synteko). Im sanding another 3000' in a few weeks.  Outdoors, a film building finish should absolutely be avoided, and a penetrating finish used. It would need to be reapplied annually.  Most Ipe decks i have seen are left untreated,they look their prettiest when they're wet.

 

[cgraham]

I built my ipe deck five years ago and used Australian timber oil. I think it is from sikkens or Cabot. Easy to apply and a light washing allows a reapplication every other year. No complaints either it. At the time it was the only product that was guaranteed for use on ipe(but that was five years ago) by the way I am still using the original gallon(great sq ft coverage)

 

[lambeater]

You are just better to oil it with penefin oil. My deck is Cumaru which is very similar. I oil it then buff off the excess oil after 20mins or before it becomes sticky. Only do it once a year. There are also lots of other finishes that do the same.

thx
Lambeater

 

[Scott B.]

Definitely use penetrating oil on ipe, no film forming coatings. Penofin Marine Grade is good, as is Armstrong Clark. Maintenance is key. At least annual, maybe more depending on exposure and wear.