Is KSC 60 able to cut thicker stock than 60mm( 2 3/8”) stock by making two cuts?

[bgnifong]

Has anyone attempted to cut stock thicker than 60mm (2 3/8”) with a KSC 60? I was trying to decide between the KSC 60 and the KS 120. I like a lot of things about the KSC 60, but have some concerns because of its limited cut depth. Over 95 percent of the time I am cutting stock smaller than 60 mm, but I have some jobs where I cut 4x4 and 3” stock. From watching YouTube videos it appears in theory that I should be able to make a cut, flip the board over and line up the shadow line with the kerf from the cut, and then make a second cut to cut the rest of the way through my board. Just wondering if anyone has been successful in accomplishing this or if there something on the KSC 60 that would prohibit me from doing this.

Thank you for your feedback,
Brian

 

[luvmytoolz]

When I need to cut timber bigger than the saw can handle on my KS120, I'll just lock the head forward a bit to give a larger cut on the back of the blade (the KS120 actually has a special holding bracket for this purpose). Then I'll turn the timber over 90 degrees and line up the blade inside it to do the last cut through it.

So far as choosing between the KS120 and the KSC 60, if you don't envision lugging it around too much, and will have a more or less permanent space for it to live, I'd say get the KS120 as you won't regret it. It's a truly fantastic saw.

If however you want the convenience of cordless, and the less bulky design of the KSC 60 so you can happily lug it around, then I'd say the KSC 60 would be the better choice.

I've had the KS120 for around 15 or so years and love it, but I'm actually buying the KSC 60 soon as I really need a less bulky saw to move around occasionally and it gets tiresome lugging the KS120 around.

 

[Lincoln]

When I need to cut timber bigger than the saw can handle on my KS120, I'll just lock the head forward a bit to give a larger cut on the back of the blade (the KS120 actually has a special holding bracket for this purpose). Then I'll turn the timber over 90 degrees and line up the blade inside it to do the last cut through it.

So far as choosing between the KS120 and the KSC 60, if you don't envision lugging it around too much, and will have a more or less permanent space for it to live, I'd say get the KS120 as you won't regret it. It's a truly fantastic saw.

If however you want the convenience of cordless, and the less bulky design of the KSC 60 so you can happily lug it around, then I'd say the KSC 60 would be the better choice.

I've had the KS120 for around 15 or so years and love it, but I'm actually buying the KSC 60 soon as I really need a less bulky saw to move around occasionally and it gets tiresome lugging the KS120 around.

The KSC60 is only 1kg lighter than the 120.

 

[luvmytoolz]

The KSC60 is only 1kg lighter than the 120.

It's not the weight that's the problem or consideration for me, it's the bulkiness as I mentioned above. The KSC 60 is a lot more luggable than the KS120. I was originally looking at the SYM 70 for those reasons but finally decided on the KSC 60 as it's much more flexible and universal saw than the SYM 70.

 

[ChuckS]

Yes, you can, which is true with any miter saws, not just Festool's.

However, if you require precision, don't rely on the shadow line or laser lines. Use a hard stop on one end of the stock to position the first cut. Flip the stock against the stop and make the second cut. Of course, prepare your stock properly so it is square on the ends to start with.