Is the 106" guide rail worth getting?

Paul G

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So I'm getting a new TS 55 REQ in a week or so and I know I'll be doing some 8' plywood cuts and even some angle cuts making that even longer which makes me wonder do I need bigger than 106" since a 4x8 sheet is about 107" corner to corner? I've never used one of these before and am wondering if I should get the 106" track or another 55" track and join it with the one I'll get with the saw. At almost $300 For the 106" I need to make sure it is worth doing. Can I trust that joining 2 tracks will give straight cuts and does the saw ever jam or skip when it reaches the point where tracks join? How quick and easy is it to put 2 tracks together? Sorry for all the noob questions, just trying to get the most from the new saw without tossing money unnecessarily. Thanks in advance for any input.
 
It really depends on what you will use it for.

Over the time of several cuts, it is possible for two rails joined together to go out of alignment.  It is also time consuming to get two rails perfectly straight.  The 2700 or 3000mm rails are both perfectly straight and ready to go at a moments notice.

On the other hand, you need to make sure you have a good place to store the larger rails. 

Others will have more varied opinions, these are just a couple main points.

Ken
 
The 3m track, 491501, is more user friendly than the 2700mm one you mention even when cutting 8' because you don't have to be so careful with the overhang at the beginning and end.

Tom
 
Tom Bellemare said:
The 3m track, 491501, is more user friendly than the 2700mm one you mention even when cutting 8' because you don't have to be so careful with the overhang at the beginning and end.

Tom

Your comment makes me wonder if the 55" is enough to cut 48" sheet?
 
TOOLTOWN said:
It really depends on what you will use it for.

Over the time of several cuts, it is possible for two rails joined together to go out of alignment.  It is also time consuming to get two rails perfectly straight.  The 2700 or 3000mm rails are both perfectly straight and ready to go at a moments notice.

On the other hand, you need to make sure you have a good place to store the larger rails. 

Others will have more varied opinions, these are just a couple main points.

Ken

I guess that settles that I should get a long track, the question then is which one.
 
I used 491501 118" last week at Festool training to break down full sheets of MDF. Worked great! My first time seeing and using the long rail, make sure you have a safe place to store it!
 
If you are going to do angled cuts on 4' x 8' sheets , then you will want (need) the 3000.  It also makes it easier for 96" cuts. I had the 2700 for several year sand then got the 3000.  I have always been happy with the change to the 3000. I also prefer the 1900  (or at least more than 1400) for 48" cuts. The 1400 is enough, but just.

Seth
 
I have a TS55R shipping to me on May 1st and after much reading and consideration, I decided to upgrade the 55" rail to the 118" rail.  A lot of people convinced me that I would be happiest with that one over the 106". 

I was able to upgrade apply the list price of the 55" towards the cost of the 118" rail.  I already have the rail that came with the MFT/3, so a 55" rail didn't really seem to make a lot of sense to me.
 
I have a holey 55" rail and am getting a 75" rail with the new TS55. To me it's the perfect combo. I will have three different rail lengths available and no one rail is too long to comfortably fit in my car.

The price increment on the 75" rail is also very reasonable.
 
RL said:
I have a holey 55" rail and am getting a 75" rail with the new TS55. To me it's the perfect combo. I will have three different rail lengths available and no one rail is too long to comfortably fit in my car.

The price increment on the 75" rail is also very reasonable.

Hmm, just when I thought I was getting the 118" LOL. Do you have any issues keeping the two straight when joined?
 
I have never had an issue with connecting two rails and keeping them straight.  I have often connected my 2700 to my 1400.  If you go that route you need two connectors.  I have a habit of losing the screws in the connectors so I have a special screwdriver and take all the screws out and put them with the extras I purchased in a zip loc bag.

Having the ability to go from rip to crosscut or vice versa on a sheet of plywood without making or loosening the connections is much more convenient in my book.  But longer rails are harder to store and transport.

Either way you're good.

Peter

PS:  If you end up with shorter rails and connectors do NOT try to prove your strength by over tightening the rail connector screws.  You will dimple the rails.
 
Spend the money it will last a long time and is well worth the investment. Saves time and works great. I use it all the time
 
Paul G said:
RL said:
I have a holey 55" rail and am getting a 75" rail with the new TS55. To me it's the perfect combo. I will have three different rail lengths available and no one rail is too long to comfortably fit in my car.

The price increment on the 75" rail is also very reasonable.

Hmm, just when I thought I was getting the 118" LOL. Do you have any issues keeping the two straight when joined?

No, never. I used to have two 55" rails and never had a problem.

A bigger problem for me is that solid wood ripped over a long length will rarely stay perfectly straight anyway. I don't work that much with plywood so that might be something for you to think about more than me.
 
The plus side of the 2700mm and 3000mm guide rails is that they do not need to be coupled.

The downside is they are expensive, are hard to transport without a lumber rack on a truck and they are hard to store.

When I bought my first TS55 I was given the chance to use a 3000mm rail at my dealer. I really wanted one, but I had no way to transport it. So I took another suggestion from my dealer: I bought 2 extra 55" guide rails. That was 2006 before the 75" rails were available. My dealer explained that often when breaking down sheets you do not make all the rips and then all the cross-cuts. Frequently you go back and forth, long cuts and short cuts. Breaking apart a coupled rail is time consuming. I did also buy two of the Festool USA-style rail bags which hold 2 of the 55" rails.

So, by having 3 of the 55" rails I used one to ensure the coupled pair were straight. Then I would use the short rail for short cuts and the coupled long rail for long cuts. I did that for a couple of years until I bought a proper truck with a lumber rack.

Then I bought both a 2700mm (106") and 3000mm (118") rails. In my condo work shop the 3000mm rail would not fit, so I used that when working in rented shop space, only taking one of the 55" rails with me. The extra 2 55" rails even with the bags was less than a 3000mm rail.
 
copcarcollector said:
I used 491501 118" last week at Festool training to break down full sheets of MDF. Worked great! My first time seeing and using the long rail, make sure you have a safe place to store it!

Yo brotherman, You made it home fast….

pleasure meeting ya
 
sancho57 said:
To the OP..

What Tom said

Yea, I'm going with the 118" guide, storage and transport thankfully aren't a problem, I think I'll regret getting the 106" and don't want the question of if two connected guides are true. Go big or go home!
 
Paul G said:
sancho57 said:
To the OP..

What Tom said

Yea, I'm going with the 118" guide, storage and transport thankfully aren't a problem, I think I'll regret getting the 106" and don't want the question of if two connected guides are true. Go big or go home!

[thumbs up]

 
Just to stir the pot, I prefer to use connected rails and have never had any accuracy issues.  I have two 1400's and a 1080.

I used to set them up with a straight edge but invested in the Betterley StraightLine Connector.  Great accessory!
 
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