Is the angle base a must-have accessory for the Carvex?

[escapegoat]

I picked up a Carvex from the Recon site recently. I would describe my needs as "general homeowner usage". My immediate use cases are

(1) scribing and quick cuts for some built-ins I'm working on, and
(2) cutting thin aluminum sheet metal (with a bimetal blade)

I don't have a specific need for the angle base right now, but is it something I should have on hand anyways? My first Festool was a CXS drill, and I've always regretted not ordering the combo that included the right angle attachment. Will I sleep better at night knowing that the angle base is in my Systainer?

(I'd prefer this not turn into a discussion on the merits of the Carvex angle base versus the tilting capabilities of other jigsaw models. I think that's been covered extensively in other threads). I'm happy with my Carvex 

 

[peter halle]

As an owner of the Carvex since its first release, I have to admit that for my general usages I have only used the adjustable angle base a few times. Normally it is the standard base. 

Peter

 

[escapegoat]

As an owner of the Carvex since its first release, I have to admit that for my general usages I have only used the adjustable angle base a few times. Normally it is the standard base. 

Peter

Thanks Peter, this is the sort of feedback I'm looking for.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Same here, I have only used the angled base a few times, but it really was the best way those few times.
I had a Collins coping foot for my old Bosch jigsaw and it was very handy a few times too, but I haven't bought one for the Carvex yet. Things don't have to be frequently used to be valuable.

The right angle attachment for the CXS is completely different. It's a lifesaver that I wouldn't be without.

 

[peter halle]

I do happen to like the Collins coping foot for the Carvex though.  I only bought one two years ago.  It is designed for a specific purpose and it does that really well.

Peter

 

[RJNeal]

I picked up a carved a little bit after the release of them. I always wanted or thought I wanted /needed the the angle plate. I still done have one after all these years. I do have the Collins base. Which I like very much.
I do work in the trades.
I think you can skip it until you need it.
Rick

 

[escapegoat]

Thanks for your perspectives guys. It sounds like I can plan on living in a 90 degree world for the time being.

 

[mrboult]

I find the question funny, as only you can estimate your needs to cut angles with the carvex. .

I’ve had my carvex for 4 years without the angle base. Was never a problem until my 9yr old TS55 died on an install (just the plug-it broke) and I really needed to do a short 45* cut in a piece of ply. . . Wished I had the angle base then I can tell you!!

Still haven’t bought it 18 months later tooo many things/tools/accessories I want.

Have a sneaking suspicion that when I one day acquire the angle base I’ll suddenly find uses for it all over the place. Much like when you first acquire a right angle drill and quickly start to wonder how you managed without for so many years. . Cos while I can see the problems with the carvex tilt base, it certainly has some unique advantages as well.

 

[FestitaMakool]

One of the reasons I looked at the Carvex was the special adjustable angle base.
Not for tilting on top of a flat surface as most jig saws do, maybe better than Carvex’ base.

But, for cramming an end/side of a board - to give support to a very narrow edge that needs to be scribed. I screw the base so that it wraps the saw blade in. I’ve use to remove material on the back of crown mouldings when making difficult transitions to a knee wall - the moulding then needs to be thinner at the roof side. Then, although it is a lot of hand guided and later planing I’ve found the base really useful. See photo, the moulding running from the left is trimmed to wafer thin thickness in order to flush the sloping roof. (And yes, it’s a PITA to do..  [blink])
Only, it’s a very expensive kit to do just this, but it helps.

[attachimg=1]

 

[weekendwarrior]

[member=71478]FestitaMakool[/member] thank you for posting that crown molding transition!  When encountering sloped walls I typically just angle cut crown molding into the slope to end the run.  I never considered adding that corner piece to transition the molding into a different direction.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I do happen to like the Collins coping foot for the Carvex though.  I only bought one two years ago.  It is designed for a specific purpose and it does that really well.

Peter

They are very handy in that rather limited capacity, but the need hasn't come up lately. They are expensive enough for regular saws, even more so for Festool. I had one for the Bosch, just haven't gotten around to it yet.
I usually have stuff like that sitting around for those just in case situations, but I have gotten by for over a year and a half without it. My local retailer has them in stock, so if it came up, an hour or so would have it in hand.

 

[escapegoat]

I just practiced scribing a piece of scrap wood against a wall with a 45 degree bevel added. Scribing face frames is an actual use case that I'm facing in the near future, and it's more or less how I justified the purchase of the Carvex  . I hadn't really thought about how I should handle the bevel. After further thought, I can think of four ways to do this.

[list type=decimal]
[*](What I actually did) Make two passes with the jigsaw. On the first pass I followed the scribe line, and on the second I just held the saw close to 45 degrees to add a bevel. I did this with the jigsaw upside down and found it very easy to follow the scribe line this way.
[*]Use the angle base to do the same thing with a single pass. The bevel would be right up against the scribe line instead intersecting the face 1/4" below the scribe edge, which is what I ended up with above. If the base wobbles a bit it's not a big deal, the beveled edge isn't visible.
[*]Use a TS55 to cut a 45 degree bevel first, then follow up with a scribing pass on the jigsaw. The shortcoming of this approach is that it is difficult to do on thin face frames, although a piece of sufficient thickness butted against the back makes it possible.
[*]Use a Collins coping foot. This would produce a result similar to #2, although the bevel angle may wander a bit because it's hand-guided. As with case #2, this is not problematic for scribing, where the beveled edge will not be visible.
[/list]

It seems to me that options #2 and #4 will produce the best result. The coping foot, while not cheap, is half the cost of the angle base. Their functionality intersects here, but each one also unlocks some cuts that the other does not. (FestitaMakool's example is a good illustration of this). The angle base gets a few bonus points for having a designated spot in the Carvex systainer. #3 requires the most effort to set up, but will also deliver a good result. #1 is the ugliest solution, but it may be good enough.

(I don't have a conclusion here, I'm just thinking out loud!)

If I can think of some What I'm gathering from the other replies is that the angle base may not see a lot of use after this project.