onocoffee said:
I've been watching a couple of videos about people making their own wax and oil combinations - and I've used Tried & True Original for a couple of pieces. The one thing I've noticed with beeswax and oil combinations is that it will slightly yellow the piece (I'm presuming because of the beeswax since mineral oil is clear). I'm interested in trying a combination that will not tint the piece. Can waxes like paraffin or gel wax be combined in a similar manner to create a wax and oil combination?
The idea is to achieve a food grade safe finish but clear.
Thanks!
The color you are seeing in Tried & True comes from the oil, not the wax. It is made from Boiled Linseed Oil, which is fairly dark. Beeswax is naturally yellow, but you can get it clear, which is white in pellet form. It is an actual hardening finish. BLO is a drying oil, which will cure. Raw Linseed Oil is lighter in color, but it takes quite a bit longer to cure. Because of the wax, and the absorption qualities, it will buff down and "feel" dry, before it really is cured.
Mineral Oil is indeed clear, but it is not a drying oil. It will never harden/cure. The product you are describing there is what is generally referred to as "Board Butter". It is normally used as a second coat after a dunking with pure Mineral Oil. Since it never cures, it needs constant replenishment. A cutting board will start to look dry, even unused/washed, since the oil keeps migrating in.
"Food Safe" is kind of a hot topic, and somewhat relative. There's a big difference between toys that some kid might chew on and a Charcuterie Board that some cheese or crackers might sit on.
Almost any
fully cured finish would be ok for the latter, since nothing is happening there.
Cutting boards do have the potential to release particles, so a bit more caution might be required.
Colorless is virtually impossible. Even wiping Mineral Spirits onto any kind of wood, will darken it some.
Totally clear Mineral Oil will too, though it will never dry nor evaporate.
To get as clear as possible, with a wax/oil, (not water-based poly) I think the closest you will get is Raw Linseed Oil and "white" Beeswax. It will take some extra cure time, but it will harden, so it won't get the dry look after sitting.
Microcrystalline wax (and Parafin) are both derivatives of Petroleum. For furniture, boxes, tool surfaces,
maybe even Charcuterie boards, it's fine, but I wouldn't on something you will cut on (or chewed on)
Microcrystalline wax also melts at a higher temperature and requires more effort to buff out. That's not as important on end grain cutting boards, but larger areas of table tops, you migh notice it.
There are other alternatives for the solvent portion too. Orange Oil (Limonene) can be used to help thin out the mixture, which softens it, making it easier to work. Too much wax to oil is very hard in the tin and Linseed Oil is "heavier" than Mineral Oil. A little Orange Oil can take some of that away, without causing other problems.
