Is there a Festool solution for this cut?

[bwehman]

I have a to take out a 2.5" wide strip of an existing granite countertop to fit a slide-in stove properly. Granite is 3/4" thick. I feel like the DSC-AG 125 is the right answer, but I'm in the US and can't figure out how to get one here.

The renovation grinder was a real MVP for taking off about a 1/4" on each side to widen the opening a bit. Great tool.

 

[tjbnwi]

I’ve used the Pearl Mesh Diamond blade on my 55. t will accept the 5 or 6”https://tiletools.com/products/pearl-abrasive-p4-turbo-mesh-blade

Tom

 

[Packard]

All the videos of the pros cutting slabs on the jobsite seem to have them working with 4-1/2” angle grinders.

If there is a concealing lip to hide the cut, then I would guess it would be fine.

Note:  I’ve used the angle grinder to cut porcelain tile only, and that went well.

I used masking tape to mark the cut line.

But I personally never cut a slab that way.

 

[peter halle]

I’ve used the Pearl Mesh Diamond blade on my 55. t will accept the 5 or 6”https://tiletools.com/products/pearl-abrasive-p4-turbo-mesh-blade

Tom

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] , what did you do about the arbor size or did I miss something?

Peter

 

[tjbnwi]

I’ve used the Pearl Mesh Diamond blade on my 55. t will accept the 5 or 6”https://tiletools.com/products/pearl-abrasive-p4-turbo-mesh-blade

Tom

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] , what did you do about the arbor size or did I miss something?

Peter

The blade comes with a reducing washer, it fits 20mm or 5/8 arbors.

Tom

 

[Mini Me]

Get someone in who works with stone counter tops, by the time you buy the tool and take all the health precautions needed it would be easier and quicker. BTW stone tops are now banned in Australia because of the health issues involved when working with it because the industry as a whole did not take and use the needed health protection it requires.

 

[Holzhacker]

Angle grinder with proper blade works fine, you just need a steady hand
If you want better, look at the Makita 4100 KB, dustless cutter. Works great, very good DC. I like mine a lot. Also slides along side of a clamped rail well.

 

[Peter Kelly]

This blade in a double-insulated circular saw will work. Needs to be a wet cut or the dust will be just completely unmanageable. There are track saws specifically for cutting stone tops, not inexpensive thoughhttps://www.pearlabrasive.com/5-portable-handheld-saw-wet-or-dry/product/0/879471#

 

[Lincoln]

Get someone in who works with stone counter tops, by the time you buy the tool and take all the health precautions needed it would be easier and quicker. BTW stone tops are now banned in Australia because of the health issues involved when working with it because the industry as a whole did not take and use the needed health protection it requires.

'Engineered' stone is the one being phased out, not granite or other natural materials.

 

[makpacman]

I'd second using a Makita 4100KB. Just did the same job using that on my track with the $30 guide rail adapter. Used a 1/2" coring bit to drill the corners first and a jigsaw to finish the bottom last.

Dust collection worked pretty well on both saws and the drill(by way of using a router dust collection port I already had) so not much dust on all 3 jobs.

Some notes and observations -- The cutout's heavy so you'll need that supported. Cooktop's are NOT router table lifts so consider giving yourself extra space so things like screw heads have clearance and perhaps lowering/raising the top at an angle is possible. Pickup some aluminum duct tape to stick around your cutout to create a drip edge so water can't run horizontally underneath the slab. But that's about it. It was very easy to do.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

 

[bwehman]

I'd second using a Makita 4100KB. Just did the same job using that on my track with the $30 guide rail adapter. Used a 1/2" coring bit to drill the corners first and a jigsaw to finish the bottom last.

Dust collection worked pretty well on both saws and the drill(by way of using a router dust collection port I already had) so not much dust on all 3 jobs.

Some notes and observations -- The cutout's heavy so you'll need that supported. Cooktop's are NOT router table lifts so consider giving yourself extra space so things like screw heads have clearance and perhaps lowering/raising the top at an angle is possible. Pickup some aluminum duct tape to stick around your cutout to create a drip edge so water can't run horizontally underneath the slab. But that's about it. It was very easy to do.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

Heck yes to this answer. Found the Makita saw and track adapter, put it in the cart... any rec for the coring bit? Also good tip about the tape.

 

[mcfal12]

Not an exact solution for this particular project, the depth cut may not be sufficient it would surely be slow going and you’d have to get the right blade, but for future reference Makita makes the 12V max CXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 3-3/8 Tile/Glass Saw.

I’ve used this saw to cut patio pavers, tile and porcelain; but ironically never glass. Yes it is underpowered and as noted in my first sentence, it may not fit this application but overall this is a really good saw and super handy to have especially for $150 US.

 

[Jim_in_PA]

Get someone in who works with stone counter tops, by the time you buy the tool and take all the health precautions needed it would be easier and quicker.

^^ This right here. A local pro can do this quickly, provide a finished edge that is not unsightly and knows how to contain the dust and debris properly. It may very well cost a lot less than buying a specialty tool for sure, although as already noted, an angle grinder with an appropriate spinny thing would do the cut.

 

[Cheese]

I've used this ATS dry blade and a TSC 55 to cut porcelain which is harder than granite.

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[makpacman]

I'd second using a Makita 4100KB. Just did the same job using that on my track with the $30 guide rail adapter. Used a 1/2" coring bit to drill the corners first and a jigsaw to finish the bottom last.

Dust collection worked pretty well on both saws and the drill(by way of using a router dust collection port I already had) so not much dust on all 3 jobs.

Some notes and observations -- The cutout's heavy so you'll need that supported. Cooktop's are NOT router table lifts so consider giving yourself extra space so things like screw heads have clearance and perhaps lowering/raising the top at an angle is possible. Pickup some aluminum duct tape to stick around your cutout to create a drip edge so water can't run horizontally underneath the slab. But that's about it. It was very easy to do.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

Heck yes to this answer. Found the Makita saw and track adapter, put it in the cart... any rec for the coring bit? Also good tip about the tape.

I don't have the exact brand/bit name but it's a 1/2" dry cut diamond bit. It was for ceramic wall tiles that I got doing a MacDonalds install of all places but looks the same as the ones I see on Amazon, often in packages of 2 or 3 for ~$20.

Edit: This reminds me that I forgot to mention in the notes above I also used 2x2x1/2 blocks of melamine with a 1/2" hole drilled through them in the corners to keep the diamond bit from walking. They were affixed temporarily with double sided tape.

 

[Mini Me]

Get someone in who works with stone counter tops, by the time you buy the tool and take all the health precautions needed it would be easier and quicker. BTW stone tops are now banned in Australia because of the health issues involved when working with it because the industry as a whole did not take and use the needed health protection it requires.

'Engineered' stone is the one being phased out, not granite or other natural materials.

Thanks for the clarification but they both cause Silicosis if the proper precautions are not taken.

 

[chris s]

I agree with Mini me.  Get someone who works with stone countertops for a living

 

[bwehman]

I'd second using a Makita 4100KB. Just did the same job using that on my track with the $30 guide rail adapter. Used a 1/2" coring bit to drill the corners first and a jigsaw to finish the bottom last.

Dust collection worked pretty well on both saws and the drill(by way of using a router dust collection port I already had) so not much dust on all 3 jobs.

Some notes and observations -- The cutout's heavy so you'll need that supported. Cooktop's are NOT router table lifts so consider giving yourself extra space so things like screw heads have clearance and perhaps lowering/raising the top at an angle is possible. Pickup some aluminum duct tape to stick around your cutout to create a drip edge so water can't run horizontally underneath the slab. But that's about it. It was very easy to do.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

Heck yes to this answer. Found the Makita saw and track adapter, put it in the cart... any rec for the coring bit? Also good tip about the tape.

I don't have the exact brand/bit name but it's a 1/2" dry cut diamond bit. It was for ceramic wall tiles that I got doing a MacDonalds install of all places but looks the same as the ones I see on Amazon, often in packages of 2 or 3 for ~$20.

Edit: This reminds me that I forgot to mention in the notes above I also used 2x2x1/2 blocks of melamine with a 1/2" hole drilled through them in the corners to keep the diamond bit from walking. They were affixed temporarily with double sided tape.

Cool cool, no worries, I ended up getting a well rated one on Amazon. Went with a 1/4" though to make a tighter radius since that portion will be showing. Also grabbed a diamond jigsaw blade to finish the cut like you mentioned. Stoked to try this!