Issue making shelf pin holes with Woodpecker jig

Rick Herrick

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Feb 7, 2020
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I have made a few cabinets using the Kreg jig.  Worked fine but the hole quality was not spectacular.  Wanted to try the WP jig.  I tested with a 1/4" straight bit but it burned the holes.  I assumed it was not a plunge bit so I ordered some Whiteside spiral bits (both up and down cut).  Watching one reviewer suggested using down cut for nicer entry holes.  First attempt really burned the wood and I had some smoke.  Looked things over and saw nothing wrong so tried again, same problem.  I took the PC guide bushing off the Dewalt 611 and tried making a plunge cut and a little free hand routing.  Pretty much no burning at all.  Set things back up with the bushing and WP jig.  Burned hole.

What in the world am I doing wrong?  Simple deduction tells me that by having the bushing, and the enclosed space of the WP jig, left no room for air flow, hence the burning.  But I know there are many people, all over, using a similar setup and don't have this issue.  Is there something I am doing wrong ?
 

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Downcut does make for a better entry hole, but it is pushing the chips down the hole and will lead to friction and heating.

By removing the bushing you must have just enabled enough air flow to remove some chips and/or provide cooling ventilation.

It is also sometimes recommended to reduce speed on down cutters.

Is the bit a "drill bit"? I recommend this type.
 
[member=72891]AstroKeith[/member] Thank you.  I didn't think about the bit pushing chips down, that makes sense.  I did vary the router speed to both ends of its limits and it did not seem to matter.  You asked if this is a 'drill bit'.  Not sure how to answer that one but it was a Whiteside down spiral bit. The packaging is in the picture.  It is a Whiteside RD2100.  I did get it and its up cut cousin.  I will try that today to see if that helps.
 
Rick Herrick said:
[member=72891]AstroKeith[/member] Thank you.  I didn't think about the bit pushing chips down, that makes sense.  I did vary the router speed to both ends of its limits and it did not seem to matter.  You asked if this is a 'drill bit'.  Not sure how to answer that one but it was a Whiteside down spiral bit. The packaging is in the picture.  It is a Whiteside RD2100.  I did get it and its up cut cousin.  I will try that today to see if that helps.
I think its the wrong cutter type. I'd try one of thesehttps://www.amanatool.com/51692-hig...1-2-inch-long-up-cut-router-bit-end-mill.html or similar.
 
But the Amana (and similar) bit does not leave a flat bottomed hole.

Wouldn't that be a requirement for shelf pin hole which are not normally a through hole and of limited depth.
 
If the upcut bit doesn't give you the entry hole quality you desire, use the downcut bit just to break the surface (1/8') and then use the upcut bit to finish the hole. Granted, it does double the machining steps.  [sad]
 
AstroKeith said:
Rick Herrick said:
[member=72891]AstroKeith[/member] Thank you.  I didn't think about the bit pushing chips down, that makes sense.  I did vary the router speed to both ends of its limits and it did not seem to matter.  You asked if this is a 'drill bit'.  Not sure how to answer that one but it was a Whiteside down spiral bit. The packaging is in the picture.  It is a Whiteside RD2100.  I did get it and its up cut cousin.  I will try that today to see if that helps.
I think its the wrong cutter type. I'd try one of thesehttps://www.amanatool.com/51692-hig...1-2-inch-long-up-cut-router-bit-end-mill.html or similar.

Thanks for the info.  I am a bit surprised though.  This bit (my Whiteside) is what Highland Hardware recommended.  I may reach out to both Woodpecker and Whiteside for guidance.  I didn't expect this test to be this frustrating.
 
Cheese said:
If the upcut bit doesn't give you the entry hole quality you desire, use the downcut bit just to break the surface (1/8') and then use the upcut bit to finish the hole. Granted, it does double the machining steps.  [sad]

Thanks [member=44099]Cheese[/member] .  My patience has improved as I got older but not sure that extra step would work for me.  ;D

I think there is a Festool god out there doing this to me to force me into the LR-32  8)
 
You could try and please the Gods by just using the Festool shelf pin router bit. ;)

PN 491066 is the 5mm Version for normal shelf pin holes.
It is similar to a brad point bit, router bit with 8mm shank.
 
Rick Herrick said:
Thanks [member=44099]Cheese[/member] .  My patience has improved as I got older but not sure that extra step would work for me.  ;D

I think there is a Festool god out there doing this to me to force me into the LR-32  8)

I absolutely know that work-around wouldn't work for me... [big grin]

Just thought that if you were on tight schedule, it'd get you by.

I'm with grobkuschelig on this one. I'd just purchase the Festool version and go forth.

I actually have the Whiteside 2100 bit and have used it exclusively for slotting. It produces a very nice entry finish. However I'm only plunging the bit 3/16"-1/4" and then moving the router to slot. That provides a lot of room for chip management.

Here the 2100 was used in maple ply.

[attachimg=1]
 

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Yep, that cut in the Maple looks very nice and it mimics what I did free hand in some Red Oak ply.  Very clean.

I actually have the Festool bit, bought it a while back.  But I need a 8mm collet for one of my Dewalt routers. Looking now on Amazon..
 
[member=61230]pixelated[/member] .  Thanks again.  I just called Elaire, they actually answered the phone quickly.  Very helpful and said it should ship out tomorrow.  Saw other +1s on this company on other forums so this should be a good purchase.
 
I used the WS up spiral last night and absolutely no burning.  The hole entry isn't perfect but much better than what I had.
 
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